spend the money you would pay for a 3 on the supra! hehe

coo coo man so when you going to send em my money ehhehe i kinda need it 245 i thinks it was


and have you put on thous tir ei gave to you yet

mez thinks you did not break it in right and glazed it or if it really bad i bet it's the rear main seal that blew on you cause int hat amonte of time that should nto have happend

Well obviously it should not have happened... ive replaced many a clutches in my cars and never had this happen. And i realise anything is possible, but every single seal in that engine was new at the rebuild along with the clutch. And how the hell are you supposed to break in a clutch?! thats just a load of BS i think because none of the mechanics at work in they 20+ years of working as a mechanic, nor my gfs dad who is an x-formula atlantic toyota racer and retired mechanic have heard of breaking in a clutch. I dunno where that theory came from. You can really use a clutch any differently you still have to use it as a clutch. And its not like i went out and rat raced this thing, i mean its still just a 4 banger 22re, cmon. Oh well i think i ended up getting a bad pressure plate, apparently its not uncommon and lordco might reimburse me 50 percent of the cost of a new clutch kit. So we will see, im just pissed off cause i dont wanna have to do it all again wheni just did. On the bright side of things if the tranny is out i might as well fix the speedometer gear in the tranny too lol, oh man im soo lazy... oh well. More money as usual, meaning less money for the supra :(

breaking in a clutch is valid IMHO, makes sure that the flywheel surface and friction surface have a good interface with each other.... the SPEC 2 that i plan to buy has a reccommended breakin of 800-1000 miles. id rather drive nice for that time that risk screwing up my expensive clutch...

what he ment is on stock clutch not after market

stock clutch takes about 1 days worth of driven to break it in

but as for persure plate you kinda notice that pedal feel is very soft if the pp is bad


and if you run sintick to fast your seals will leak

MY CAR RUNS!!!!!!!!
I finally got my landlord to lend me some tools and help me, took like 45 mins (with 2 beer breaks).
I am SOOOO stoked! just thought I would share, now I am going out to go drive my baby, and pick up my speakers for the supe just came in at the post office. And my landlord has a new car battery for me, brand new with 2 year warranty for 20 bucks. Today is a good fucking day!! I'm going to go drive now...

awesome dude!

what ended up being wrong with it?

you guys think i should get rid of the EGR while the heads off? i figured i might as well...

i never understood removal of the EGR, on domestic engines its prone to cause more heat, but on ours it removes heat?

i say yank it... if ya figure it'll help at all

ill have to put a plug into the back of the head though... machine shop could probably do it for cheap while they are resurfacing it...

if you just use a blockoff plate, it will still heat up the back of the head, you have to plug the hole the exhaust gasses come through. main advantage is just cleaning up the engine bay, less crap in the way.

my engine bay should be pretty good when im done, nothing over the spark plug valley, not extra linkages etc... i might remove cruise control, depending on how hard it is to get it to work with a new intake mani...

Ah, why remove cruise control? I love it, it's so nice when you have to go on long trips.
I've thought about removing the EGR myself, but figured there's no real point except for looks (and my engine bay is dirty and ugly anyhow).
The only thing wrong with my car was the clutch master cylinder. I had bought a new one like a month ago, but just didn't have the tools to change it. There was the "one" bolt I couldn't get (those who have done it will know what I mean). So I finally got a hold of my landlord who is a mechanic and we did it yesterday morning :)
Now I just have to figure out the knock sensor wiring and get my car out of limp mode, and maybe do something about the leak I found somewhere around the exhaust manifold. But at least I can drive it now - feels SOOO good.
My next mission is going to be the knock sensor rewire I think, but probably won't get around to it for a bit, I'd really like to see how much better it feels without the timing retarded though.

removeign the egr is an idea but if you leav it in it will nto do a thing

to remove ti all you need is plate ont eh back fo the head that si all there is hole on number 6 port that lets the gasses go intot he back of the head

as in removeing it meh i whould but eh no worries plus you got to worrie about failing stafy inspeation they do look for your egr whe i got my satfy doen they asked me if i still had one

i dont plant to ever need a safety inspection... and as i said, a blockoff plate for the back of the head is ok, but plugging the hole that the gas comes into the back of the head is better.

im slowly working on a forward facing intake mani (like the MKIV) and im not sure how hard its goin to be to hook up the cruise control too it. if its simple, ill keep it, if not, it gets tossed.

teh only way to do it is to put a back off plate on it that si the only way akak the proper way

my friend has just got a mkii and it has no power. when u put your foot down it the car jerks back and forword and it gives u wiplash so i was wondering if anyone knows what the hell is wrong with it.

a blockoff plate where the cooler goes still allows exhaust gas into the back of the head. a plug in the hole means no more exhaust gases at all.... so imho, the plug is the proper way to do it, the blockoff plate is a cheap way to do it.

ummm you will see what it looks like when you take it off a block of plat is fine and is cheeper does the same thing

anybody know of a good place to get stuff i need for my engine rebuild? Mine needs it bad now... :(

Try unplugging the vacuum line off of the EGR valve and plug it up, see if it still jerks around.

jay marks, lordco, toyota, anywhere really.. i think its all about the same price

do 2nd gens have throttle position sensors? if so, that could be why its doing that.

my stock temp gauge likes to pin itself to "H" but if i stab the gas for a sec, it goes back to normal?

interesting, considering the autometer says im running like 150....

anyways... think i need a new rad cap perhaps? i just replaced the t-stat, but something isnt opening properly..

Try the EGR first though, its quick, easy, and free. Plus i fought that problem for months before i figured out that it was just the EGR. My 3rd gen celica was doing the same thing, surging and bucking like a horse. Unplugged the EGR and it was fine.

could be many small things that can do that