TT wheels for $600? yay or nay?

American?

CDN$600... they are in decent shape, but i would get them refinished. called around today, its about $35/wheel to powdercoat and $20/wheel to strip them...

I guess the question is really about the tires - if there even is any. That's the expensive part.

none, but i can get new 275s for $189...

hey ryan, if your free this weekend (or friday) want to help me get the head off? id like to get it to the machine shop on monday

no prob


any wya io got new tire for the rx7 yae gettign rid fo the crappy ones the fun way ehheheh

see toby the rx7 has egnogh power to make me happy ps that was no brake stand that just pure triangle power

ryan helped my get the head off tonight, so im taking it to JB tomorrow or monday. he also reminded me about my clutch, so im ordering a Spec Stage 2 from MVP in the next few days.

looks like im saving for wheels while im in school :) anyone want an 88 burgandy wing and mouldings, or a black 89+ wing? hehe

sweet, toby! how long before you're back on the road?

dunno yet... give it a week for the machine work, probably 2 for the clutch to get here... im hoping to have it on the road end of sept/early oct.... if i can afford insurance and gas haha

not lookin forward to the 1000 mile breakin on the clutch...

one good thing about not being able to afford to drive it is i can get more stuff done on it, such as the stereo. i think i know what i want to do now, should be a fun project :)

wana buy my clutch it's like new i9 might be out growing ti but i have to think abotu ti still

ok, looks like i will be going back off the road soon, again.

1) Clutch = soon to be toast
2 Yesterday when i got to work and turned the car off there was a metalliac "clunk" coming from somewhere and when i turned the car back on there was a constant clunking coming from the engine........fucking supras.

Ok, I've never understood how you can break in a clutch?

You got my wondering too, looked into it. Seems it's primarily for spring clutches. It's not for the disc itself, but the springs, breaks them in :)

I also read:
"clutch disc will establish its seat on the flywheel and pressure plate and make full contact, assuring maximum performance"

Looking a bit more, both make sense, the spring one makes sense to me, especially with so many km. I bet the clutch surface would be good to go after the first few shifts.

hahahaha i find it funny after lookign into the rx7 junk and stuff

i laugh at the point where they find it hard to break 130 hp buhahahahah i glad i own a 7m now ehhehe

well yes pretty much every cluthc needs ot be broken in

these are the reson why


see when you get you fly wheel muchined they put a cross hatch on as you whould say what this does is sand the cluthc so it mates wiht e fly wheel perfect if it don't then you kill your clutch aka glaze it then you have to take it off sand the disck and if you really bdaly glaces you will ahve to dot eh fly wheel again cause see the cluthc will melt the fly and all that mealt wiht stick tot he cluthc make sit not mate right and there for slip under load

different clutches have different breakin times as well, depending on the material of the clutch disc. im going for the Spec Stage 2, which is a Kevlar clutch. very forgiving if i abuse it, will hold 460 ft-lbs, which is about the most power i would see for a long time...

How much do you guys think my crappy engine is worth, with the ECU and wiring harness, and all the engine parts that go with a complete swap... minus the rad, IC, AFM, waterpump and a decent crank.

There's a guy that wants to buy everything to do a mk2 swap. I was thinking 500 bucks. It's probably a really good deal for him, he has all the extra parts just laying around to fix it too.

What do you guys think?

ask for $750 obo

Not why! HOW? How can you possibly take it "easy" on a clutch? Do you like slowly slip it out or something? lol.. And secondly, if you take it "easy" for the initial 1000 kms or whatever, what the hell are you doing to it after that? :p

So the guy who was going to sell me his car hasn't called me today, and he was supposed to be getting it inspected today. I'm assuming that means it never happened. Im curious if its even worth it to have it looked at when I've looked it over already, like what more is a mechanic going to do than basically "look" at the engine? Would it make much of a difference, and should I just go and buy it if the price is right?

i'd be most concerned about its head gasket status, did you read that link i posted on SOGi awhile back? i doubt even my car could pass all of those factors. so i wouldnt worry too much about little things, but tranny and HG leaks for sure.

also try to check the car first start of the day, see if its blowing smoke or idling rough. some common probs will show during startup of a cold engine (cold start injector, tps, rod knock, etc)

thats what i mean, but a mechanic isnt going to check a HG, they're usually just going to look it over like i did, thats why im wondering if there's any point in waiting for it

Most shops like ours do a complete checkover on it. They will do a compression check, check all the brakes, tires, oil leaks, tranny leaks, condition of the flex lines and all related brake parts. We check over all the fluids including the rear end and trans, coolant, oil. If there is any oil leaks they will be able to give you an idea of where abouts its leaking. They will check the steering rack boots, CV boots, it usually even involves a road test to make sure the clutch doesnt slip and everything is working like it should. They will make sure the ebrake cables are all working and that all the suspension is good. I mean its quite an extensive checklist that we have to go through when we do a pre-purchase inspection on a car for a customer. Takes about an hour to and hour and a half depending on the vehicle. And its thorough. I would highly recommend you get it done if you dont have much mechanical knowledge.