oh now there is coolant leaking out after poking around....rar!

welcome to the wonderful world of owning a supra.

his is fine it was just coolent from comon hose

it was so baked it came off in chunks

hehe, it's probably JUST the beginning.

i have a question,

what do u guys think wud be a good price for an MKIV Supra, N/A, T top, 5 speed manual?

Im thinking of getting one, but i wanna be sure im not getting jyped for the prices. thanks.

Mk4's are far overpriced....Let alone NA's which are dirt slow to boot.
No matter how "good" a deal you get you'll be getting ripped off badly.

guess what's coming out of my air filter?? Oil! Looks like it's time for a new turbo, i'm pretty sure my oil seals are shot cause the engines rebuilt but it blows blue when I push it sometimes and I have oil coming out of everywhere(BOV too :bluemad: ) Saweet!

I was thinking of auto crossing this weekend too :p , havingmy advans mounted on the new rims today. I bought a strut tower bar of ebay for 9 bucks (not bad surprisingly). The only problem is that it barely clears the intake mani so i'm going to make some spacers for the top of struts. Anyone need TEMS cover? mine won't fit on anymore.

I people are interested and have running cars/just want to hang out the porsche club is having autocross this saturday (i think drivers need to be there at 830) It would be cool to meet some of the local supra guys, so far I've only really met up with nashman. I don't know if i'm gonna be driving anymore but I'm still planning on going. hope to see you guys out there, cheers!

-fletch

Canadian MK4 or one shipped up from the US?

Canadian one about 26cdn ish?
US 93.5-95 you see going for about 17 US from time to time on supraforums.

Umm, you sure it's not some serious blowby? Sounds like it to me more than anything. Do a comp. test, only takes a few minutes...

anyone know anything about 1jz or 2jz-gte engines? pros and cons of each?

1J's only 2.5L of course...same motor more or less as the 2J. no torque though...and I've had exp. with a few of them. Has NOTHING before it gets into boost. More of a rev-happy motor

2J's are a better motor than a 7M overall, although I'm a 7M guy - the more torque the better. Both JZ motors heads' outflow the 7M head...and have more room for running bigger valves etc - as well as overboring. Bottom end can take abuse but honestly...I don't think the internals are much better than the 7M's - detonation is detonation. The reason you don't hear alot of 2J's blowing is because their owners don't half-ass things like mk3 guys do usually

Umm not sure what else...They both bolt up pretty much aside from needing specific mounts and you'll need a JZ bellhousing for the tranny as well....Also keep in mind if youre going to get a cheap jdm motor(1J and 2J's go for around 1k over here), check to see if its front or rear sump...front sump, youll need to swap over a bunch of things

ok well the one im looking at right now is 19k, trying to negotiate to 18k (USD), 60k miles, N/A, black on black leather, completely stock inside and out....one minor accident 4 years ago to the rear, everything else pretty good, besides a little wear on the driver seat..

only thing is tax is gonna be a bitch, gonna end up spending mby 24k cuz its made in japan so theres 6.1% duty along with the GST....

any advice on if its worth it to get this or not? i dont mind not having a turbo, dont need the power and wanna save gas, and non turbo will take a lot less maintenance.... so yea, any advice wud be great, thanks.

i wouldn't buy it for 24k, that's a bit much. wait for something local(ish) to pop up if you would consider spending that much, or maybe wait and find a killer deal elsewhere.

alright thanks for the advice everyone, ill keep that in mind.

All I can say is....You'd be spending 25k on a decade-old toyota that isn't turbo and has been in an accident
I just don't see the logic myself...

The oil shouldn't be getting into the i/c pipes if my rings are leaking though should it? I can understand it coming out of the exhaust but the intake valves should be closed when the oil is sneaking through. I think I might test compression anyways. I had it rebuilt not too long ago so I guess if the rings didn't seat i'm fucked. Would a shop be willing to honor a repair like that if the rings didn't seat after they put the pistons in?

-fletch

Well 2 of my 5 blown motors had some serious blowby and both of them had oil shooting out the intake and it ended up in the IC pipes as well...as did a friend of mine

From past experiences, if you blow a turbo you're going to see the smoke out the exhaust, not in the IC pipes...Only time I got oil in the IC pipes from a turbo was when I had my first 67mm and the return line had a crimp...all the oil just backed up and the ic pipes were loaded haha

All depends on the shop if the rings didn't seat...I don't know how shops out there are - Here they'll basically say you're on your own after like a week..

to test for blow by just take you oil cap off and pop your hand on to it if you feel persure start to build you have alot fo blow bye

of your oil goes black really fast un like other cars you have blow by

older trubo will cloat the ic pipe in oil it just have there juranle bareing that what they do consume oil

ps i highly dought you have blow by as well since i drove your car and found no issue's of it plus like a rape date

these are what you have to fix fomr last time

exhaust man the leaky fucker it is
your vavles are so loud it's not funny they need to be re shimed


aka your turbo is dieing

what are you planing on doing may i ask

diff in 1j's and 2j's are this

if you want power full car right off the bat and not spend money to make fast then the 2j is for you


to match the the 2j/ with the 1j

cams need to be done since they flat line at 6000 rpm and fall to 8000 rpm hole lot fo wasted rpm wow they usely go for about tad under grand

2.5 liter of dismanet 3 is better no replament for displamect
so what the super duper 1j owner's do is get a 2j bottom end so now there a 3 liter (aka 1.5j) with crappy head on the car compared to a 2j head cc camber are bit bigger as well so teh comp drops i think 1j is 100cc and the 2j like 80's don't quot e me thou

1j stock tiwn can not push over 400 hp or they blow up cause there grabge



so these are the facts on why a 1j is bad choice even if you have to pay more you don't have to do all this monkey fucking around to make 1 motor to be just as good as the other

bother are sim to wire up but monte up the same so in the end 1j just suck compared to what is out there

fixing car/new turbo
 

Ok so I'm buying a used ct-26 for now cause I don't have the money to upgrade. Nashman will be happy to know that I will also be doing the manifold gasket when I put the turbo on. I'm seriously considering pulling the car off the road and adjusting valve clearances while i'm pulling shit apart. How long would that take, anyone know? Not possible to leave the head on is it?

-fletch

correct me if im wrong, but ur just doing the clearance between the valve and the bucket or w/e its called.. so u only need to pull the valve covers off.. u need to get a TSRM or something and check the specs for the procedure.. but would prolly take.. couple hours?

Intake is 8 thou and Exhaust is 10 thou...I'm just going on memory here, I'm probably wrong on the specifics - But it'll take more than a couple hours. Especially if you need new shims for some of them.

ahahhahaha it's not fun job at all it's time taker i have to do mine once car's on the road and driven
then i have to reajust my vavles ps shims are exp as well it's not funny

and if you do it right she will prrrr like a kitten

haha oh great, ^just what I need, to spend more money on my car. Well i'll make you a deal ryan, you show me how to do em on my car and i'll help you do yours, it'll give you some practice too ;)

-fletch

it's one man job