well guys i can't do all the tec nots my self right now so start helping me out here so fa ri got very litte on paper what i have done to my car in it life tiem but time to see if you guy got any tec nots on stuff here is exampe and such



86.5 to 92 Toyota Supra repaire's and Modifications

this page is for all of you guys that what to know how to fix your supra and what mods i have done is this time to my car and other people cars the star's go from 1 to 5

1. Body
2. Engine
3.Air/fuel/spark
4.Interior
5.Suspenion/Drivertrain



Repaire's

1. Body

Body molding (repair n/a or t)

Well I replaced some molding strips on my car caues they fell of and such when i was driving down the street and some of them looked bad. to remove all of it goes like this Front - Remove the screw securing the sidelight / indicator assembly and carefully pull forwards to gain access to the plastic clip, which holds the front end of the trim, and prise it out. Remove the rear screw and carefully prise the trim off. The side repeater light then just unclips.Rear - Remove ( prise ) the plastic clip out and carefully prise the trim off Door - Open the door fully and locate the nut at the front next to the door check strap. If you are lucky the nut will undo, but if like mine it does not, then starting at the rear of the door, prise the trim off until you get to the front, then try sliding the trim off the stud, or as a last resort carefully prise the trim away from the stud. If the plastic retaining clip comes away from the trim it can be stuck back on with polyurethane sealer.Rear wing trims -Front - Remove ( prise ) the plastic clip out and carefully prise the trim off.Rear - Remove the front screw. It will be easier at this stage to remove the rear interior side trim panels. This allows easy access to the three captive 8mm nuts, undo these, then carefully prise the trim off. If any of the captive nuts / studs spin, the trim can be carefully forced sideways away from the studs.Rear end trim - To remove the number plate carrier and trim, the tail lights first need to be removed ( six 8mm nuts each ), then undo the two 8mm nuts holding the carrier. At the top of the carrier in the center there is a plastic clip, which I found was best unclipped by using a shock force on the back of it, using some kind of drift ( use a screwdriver if your careful ). When the carrier is loose, several wires need to be disconnected and unclipped and fed through the rear panel
just befor you do all this repalce clips and such if there bad to put back on it very simple pull the backing off then snap the clips in and such

The symptoms

when they look ugly or some of the peicesare missing or have to remove em to get at some rust or paint car

The Difficuly*

well hum i whould give this 1 star as well it is very easy to do and does not take much time to do the only difficuly is paying the price for the new molding it think 1500 cnd funds for all of it .

The Problems*

well it whent on great didn't have prob in any way just remmber to clean under there caues you don't want any unted rust or dirt in there cause it will never come out untel you take you modling off again

The Results*****

It looks pretty now no more of that ulgy faded modling it all new and pretty

Time and cost

well as for cost it was like 1500 for all of it but i only did the door and front wing part door was like 250 wing was 150 now tiem it was like 30 mins or less for what i did

by NashMan




Rear wing leak (repair n/a or t)

This is prob that the supra's have mine did so i had to fix it . you ever wounder why you get water dripping for the top cover half on you hatch most likly it is leaking wing. well the fist is very simple to fix . frist you take the cover off the hatch it held on by clips and the 2 bolts hold the hatch cargo bag cover tabs on then pull it off and you will see some bolts coming from the wing, undo them pull the wing off now clean the mess what ever is left uder the wing pegs and then take so cocking type stuff used for bathroom seal the bolts and the are around it. now tighten down and the leak is now fixed

The symptoms

all wasy get dripped on from the the hatch and you have water in you spare tire hole or just water around that area

The Difficuly*

how hard is this to do um very very easy any person witht 2 hands can do this hell even person whith one hand and one leg chould do it

The Problems**

well my problem was i found rust under there i did not like that to much but it is all gone now hope you don't get he same i am only give this 2 start caue si had rust there

The Results*****

they were great my hatch does not leak no more and my head is bone dry when i go to open my hatch after rain caues it doe snot drip on me no more

Time and cost

4 bucks for store for the sealer, but what i did and borowed some from my dad , caues you don't need like all of it just need bit

by NashMan


Loose door hing (repair n/a or t)

Well i had bad door hing on my driver side i had to pick my door up to close it or slam it any way that is bad for the door and car. now if you go to toyota and buy one like i did they only come in black so you will have to paint em to you car's colour now on in how i did it frist of all this is not hard job but is pain in the neck to do once i tell you it will be easyer for you then it was me. frist of all you can not get the hinges off in less you take you front fender off oh joy eh . well this is how you get the fender off you flip up your light and take the light out of pop up head light then you have to reach you arm in and undo the 3nuts holding the front fender to the top nose part once thous are off you pop your hood and take all the blots out down the side of the fender then take off the mud flap and all bolts you see under it and holding it on.
now you have to take the molding off the with the trun signle on it off and the front front trun signal as well.
now you have to take the wheel well mud gards off and get ad the one nut holding the bottom of the fender one off now the fender should come off

now when putting on door hinges make sure you have some one holding the door when it is on jack stands. pop off one hing at time and replace with the new one and when you got that done close the door and make sure it is closeing right and such.

The symptoms

door hard to close/ you have to pick up the door to close it you lift your door when it is open and get lots of play Bad hinges

The Difficuly***

The resone why i gave this 3 is it was hard trying to find out how the fender came off and what why to go at it from but i help you guys out so it will be bit easyer for you.

The Problems****

The reson why i gave this a 4 was my car is old and snaped like 2 nuts one holding my top front nose part on and the lower fender part as well i would use wd40 on these as in toyota use really cheep nuts and studs back int eh day and most likly still do.

The Results*****

well i am very happy whit this fix, now i can close my door with out makeing alot of nosie when closing my door plus it like the new car door when you close it.

Time and cost

Well the frist time allways takes the longest it took me 3 to do but if i was to do it again it whould take me 30 min to 1 hour takeing my time of corse.

by NashMan









2. Engine

Power steering pump (repair n/a or t)

Well I have owned 2 engine's and they bought have had bad steering pump's
but we are in luck there easy to get any caues you can get em for other year of cars made by toyota
all of the mrk 2 supra's and and some of there trucks toyota cressida

why do the pumps break well the bushising tend to were out and then the whell moves back and forth and then it were down the belt's then they break and don't fit right any more when you put on new one and will just break.

Make sure when you go to the scrap yard you try to the move the pully back and forth and if does find anther one caues that one will do the same one the old one did

The symptoms

screeching nosie when it is ilding ,belt worn really bad on one side and pully has to much play in it

The Difficuly**

I give this 1 star it not that hard of job as long as you have some know how and you not scared to work on your car. then you be fine what you need wrench set and some jack stands and jack

The Problems*

Humm the only problem i got from doing this repaire was I cut my finger and i don't know how long this one will last caues i got mine for 85 celica supra but it was pretty solid so i think it will last a long time

The Results****

don't have to replace my belt all the time and the screeching nosie is gone when it is ilding but how long will it last

Time and cost

well as for time and cost well it cost me like 65 bucks from the wreaker so that was not to bad , but as for tiem it took me about 1 to 2 hours to do

by NashMan




i wan teh lay out to be that way caue sit looks pretty and i ahve done alot of typeing and i don't like ot type much


so have at here

wow, you've been busy. maybe ill make a tech note on how to change the oil and filter with pictures, or better yet, how to change the plugs on a turbo, with pics of course.

i doing the plug thing as we speak hehehe

i might do teh brakes but i can leav that to u if you wish

ryan, email me the stuff at t.harcombe@shaw.ca ill go through and edit it if you want, for grammer and such.

cool i done a good job trying to make senc when doing this it take bit fo my tiem but i enjoy doing this and shaireign what i have to give and such

just add new repair thing on paint chips and paint scuffs and such

i think i could use some of those paint chip tips on my car, after waxing it i saw some minor imperfections that should be fixed.

christ my rear bumper has mad swirl marks on it too. i think i might repaint that sometime in the future.

just icq whatever stuff you make up as articles. include pics if you can (always helps out) and i'll put it into HTML and post it on the website. tech tips are a great idea... keep it coming :)

toby you ever get any further with that sub inclosure?

pic whouold be hard caue smost of the repaires i will not have pic but most mods will

murray, i havent had time in the last weeks. went campin mon and tues, today is my only day off until fri, so ill probably do the fiberglassing then, unless i can find time after work.

i bought some Meguires Scratch X, ill see if it does anything for swirl marks..... maybe try it when its cooler tonight.

that is what you can do tob make tec tip for the sub thing

why would i make a tech tip for a sub box when i can just sell them :)

you hard liky have egough time to make yours let alone go out amnd sell em

and fiber glassing is very easy just takes time


me i think it is for show and that is it caue sthe air volume is never right and the box it self will have hormonit distortion


that why most of all these pro sq car have reg boxs and not the showy kinda

its not hard to get the air volume correct, use water to measure it. then if there is too much airspace, you add some foam or something else to take up the space. and once i make murrays, ill probably make mine, and after that i might make 1 or 2 to sell, probably for around $250, im not sure yet. it would take me about 2 days to make one if i wasnt working.

i gots an important question for you supra guys w/ targas

you know how theres two screws that go in to the front part of the targa, well are they tapered screws or flat screws? cause i have one of each:confused:
and its relaly hard to make the top go in the right way w/ out the sound of air getting in all the time.:confused:

it should be allen-bolts in all 4 corners.... make sure you tighten it up when the car is level.

still u missed something that is very impotaint


box shape ect

box shape doesnt matter if the airspace is correct. if the box is built properly, with proper bracing etc, shape will not matter.

you cant actually tell the difference between amps if they are putting out the exact same amount of power, and each EQ etc is set the same.....

progress! not too hot today after work, so i worked on murrays subbox, heres some pictures.

oops double post.... editing...

ok, the picture above is the mold release applied, its called PVA (polyvinyl alcohol). this next pic is of the baffle fitted.

and this is the baffle all cut out, ready to be fiberglassed! ill probably do that after work tomorrow, weather permitting.

and murray, i should be able to make this fit completely under the stock carpet/wood/folddown/thingamajig.

yes box shape does matter

it is very import in sq caes the suond wavs insaid the box can caues the box to flutter more and cause unwanted nosie's


hermonick distortion


what can happed is the box not made right is
voise coil slap vocie coil over heat that is if it really shallow
and sub fullter


you can ask any one that is die hard car audio man and they will know this

but you sub should run fine and great but fo the best sound psible you have to got ot box based desigh

ryan, do you know how long the frequencies are that a sub produces? the sound waves dont bounce around, there is no such thing as standing waves for subs, etc. the only time a box is not built right is if the sub basket is placed too close the surface behind it, which leads to bad cooling, etc.

but its like exhaust backpressure, if you want to think that your right, go for it......

oh yes, ask any die hard audio man? would that be car audio or home audio? remember, home audio guys say one type of power cable sounds better than another......

cool. lookin' good toby, are you going to try and port the inclosure in any way? or is that even needed?

not with that sub, it needs a sealed box.