kinda sad that we all knew what our numbers were but meh, im not ashamed of it
icQ#36412585

ooooooh page #60

well adam i added you to my list
and i pretty sure you hg is blown you may have spilt hose so cheak all your coolent lines if there is no leak or water pump not weeping then you have bad head gasket

resons for it happen that i can think of miss up in install or head was worped to much when you put new gasket in

and cheak you dip stick if it is light brown white ish then you have chacked head most likle in less it is the king of all blow s



now toby i still have that head i think 200 for you bit much but i think 100 is beter price for the head there nothing wroung whiht it but i don't want to have it no more caues i runing out of room


plus i need money for tires hehehehe



ps mury i think i have asked befor but how you get the ebrake handle on and it it on there good type of thing

oh yae give your turbpo that thing just pull all the way big turq curve and it last for long time alot better then ct


but i bet you can get alot more hp if you trans let you go in to red

you all so know what you should do is when you get the new heat shild made ingrave the greddy logo on the heat shield type of thing that will make it pop

my Turbo's running at about 1/4 its potential. heh, when i had this bad of settings on the AFC with the CT26 i swear i picked up a easy 30RWHP once it was tuned it...

yesterday i was at 13-15psi, and look how sloppy the shifts are. definetaly going to have to get it in for tranny soon. or find a 5spd parts car... hrmmmm

all in good time.....

ya murrary i'll phone my mechanic and i'll ask him whats up

i was talking to person that i know and he said that you can put the mrk 4 auto trans in the mrk 3 better gear for the turbo you have but that what i herd might want to investagate that if you want to stay auto


like when we were ripping down mud road my brakes were showing sines of heating but i chould have doen the hole road as i all wasy do but don't like going to fast whiht car for long tiem caues ware and tair makes car break ehhehehhe


gears are great they slow you down and can control your power easyer

but an auto out of mrk4 whould be better

bad news as well my bro is not going to be makeing the boost controler he going to go work for gm now so no time dang eh we chould ahve all got ebc hehehe or prototypes

why o why am i polishing the old turbo?

err wait i know, cuz its fun, and i can sell it easier this way!

hehe. i spent like a hour polishing the old elbow just to see what different sandpaper + drill + polishing bit appearances i could get. now im painting it. screw it! the elbow is like cast iron. i couldnt get a nice finish offa that unless i spent eternity sanding and grinding away...

the turbos coming out nicely tho. i'll take some pics soon.. i think i might have to get some more smaller bits to get in all the little tight spots.

and Ryan. find me more proof a MKIV auto can fit into a MK3. that might not be a bad idea....

any thing will fit just how hard is it to put in what you really want to know

proof? the 2jz auto and 7m auto tranny both have the same number, the difference is the bellhousing i think. the 2jz version will be stronger given that stock hp is 320 crank while the 7m is 232 crank.

im guessing adapting the bellhousing is gonna be more of a pain in the ass than what its worth?

the bellhousing is a peice of metal that attaches the tranny to the engine, just liek that Greddy elbow adapter they didnt send you. the tranny will be the same, so most likely you take the bellhousing off of your 7M tranny, attach it to the 2jz tranny, and it will bolt right up. ask on SF to be sure, but building your 7m tranny might be a better idea in the long run.

well the only resone why i said that the 2j auto trans is it comes whiht it's own seprit tranny controler

now the good thing about this is the 2j revs higher and can hold about 500 rwhp stck form

now are the drive shafts the same langth umm don't know i just read it was one of the cheaper ways to upgrade drive line

just sujestion

website updated.... added a forum!

check it out and sign it!

http://pub39.ezboard.com/bvancouverislandsupras

if it gets used enough i'll pay for it, otherwise its only there for another 22 days..

enjoy!

i trid toy reg and it wanted money form em what s what that i must have done soe thing wroung but i don't think i did



ps i got ot send my dyno pics toy uo and stuff

i figured out what car i'll buy when i sell the soopra
a 2003 nissian sentra se-R spec V
http://www.nissan.ca/en/vehicles/ser/performance.html
my grandparents buy all there cars from there so maybe i can cut a deal.

that nissan looks like a decent performer... i just never liked the body styling of any nissans except the 240sx/300z and now 350z

Ryan, you dont have to pay, you did sign up. just go to the forum and try posting it'll work. i made you a moderator.

oooooo i got power now modorateor

muahhahah cool i might get some new wireing soon hehehe trying to get a best deal possilbe


and now i will nto get misses some's times ehhehehehe


bu the only crappy part is the dash has to come out so does the front fender and stuff alot of work that i really don't want to do it



but in the end my car will run right so there is my motvation

I got the lowering spring for my car......
Where is the best place to put them on?
I checked out some shop and they said they need around 5 hrs to install them......so work out around 300 buck

500 bux? damn! try asking another shop...

i did min inthe drive way alot cheeper hehhehee i used every thig i chould think of vise grips and some hose clamps ant i pro


chould just get spring compersure for like patrs store to rent type stuff


i whould have rented but i was to cheap

who's in for this

say a few of us get the Koni struts. we rent or buy a compressor and do it all at the same time

a spring compressor is only like 80 bux to buy.

Toby has a lead on Koni's for a decent price......

I get the spring for 380 Cad total........
I am still thinking to get the Koni yellow or not and I can get them 680 including everything........
I guess this price is not bad......

my car stays as in for now time to fix some stuff like wireing and power streeing pump and new tires hehehe

scottie, that price is with taxes and everything?? if so, thats a better deal, especially if its local. the guy i was going to buy the konis and H&Rs from is in california, it was going to be about $960 shipped, but then who knows about taxes, border fees, duty, etc that might be tacked on.

and im all up for doing them all at once. i have a big driveway, 2 jackstands, and a brand new socket set. all we would need is a good quality torque wrench, and another set of jackstands would be good so we can do all 4 corners at once. do one car at a time, each person doin a corner? lol

also, anyone need brakes done, we could do that at the same time.

i got alot of tools hehehe i think i got every size i can think of but the one thing i gona buy soon is some rachit stub wrenchs thous arw the best and some screw drivers i keep looseing em and stuff



changeing spring is not hard at all it pretty easy don't even have to buyt the com psure just use vise grips like 3 of em and you fine


ps the best tol whould be a car lift

Toby, I just received my H&R Spring and there is no tax and anything...........232 US shipped to my door.......
so I guess we dont need to pay tax on the strut as well.........
the Koni shocks are 99US each x4 + 20 shipping= 416 US
Also they shipped very fast, takes only 4 day to ship them over to here.......
www.tirerack.com

So if we can do all in the same time that's will be good but just want to know when are u guys going to do?