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I have a hoya 55 super quality cpl I also have a tiffen 52 polarizer for sale :ifyouknow: Spoiler! just get it on ebay + step down rings |
I just finally upgraded from my kit lens. I was told to get a UV filter; not for the filtering properties, but more so for protection. Do you guys agree? I was thinking the Hoya Alpha UV MC filter or the Hoya Pro 1. |
I generally don't use filters, as they can cause increased flaring and ghosting especially at night. It's not a bad idea to use a filter for protection, but I rarely do. I have a B+W MRC UV filter for my 24-105mm f4L as it's my walk around lens, but I don't have any filters for my 24-70L or 70-200L which are the lenses I use when shooting paid gigs. |
Hi experts, any experience with the EF 40mm f/2.8 STM Portrait lens. I will mainly use it for street style fashion shoots. I currently use the EF-S18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 IS STM kit lens. It's actually not too bad. Considering I shoot on a tripod so I can use longer exposure to compensate for the narrower f-stop. But it does limit me when I want to capture motion. I also have the EF 50mm f/1.8 II that I can borrow from time to time too. Are the 40mm and 50mm lens much different on a cropped body? Any input on image quality? Response time to autofocus and such? Also, do I need the 40mm considering my kit lens and the 50mm? I read their stats, but nothing compares to actual experience. Thanks in advance for all your input. Posted via RS Mobile |
So I'm in the process of offloading my beloved 70-200 2.8 IS II in a trade. What I'm getting back in return are: 135L (so stoked!) 70-200 f/4L (non-IS) $500 cash This is going to be added to an existing 6D, 17-40L, and Sigma 50 1.4. My question to you all is what to do with the $500. Yes I can keep it, but I was set on filling that gap between 50 and 135 with an 85 1.8. But recently it got me thinking that the difference (to me, at least) between 50->85 or 85->135 isn't that huge. I have a 580EXII, so I don't feel like upgrading to 2 flashes. Putting it towards a 35L/Sigma 35 also crossed my mind, but I'd rather not add more cash on top for a lens I'm not sure I'd use much. I don't use my tele very often (and never indoors, always outside in daylight), so I thought I didn't need IS. From what I read, the difference between the IQ of the two f/4 versions is marginal, so I'm thinking just save the cash for something else. Any thoughts? |
whats a good lens for taking large group car pics. my stock lens are the 18-55 and its hard to take large group car pics. difficult to fit all the cars into shoot and I have to be very far away to take the pic to make it fit. |
Tokina 11-16 F2.8 is pretty awesome. Or Canon 10-22mm lens. $$$ but its wide! Assuming your using a crop sensor camera. |
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There was a recent price drop on the 10-22 to about $799. I've seen 2-3 ads on CL selling for 600-650. I haven't seen a used 11-16 in a while. Don't really need the 2.8 if you're shooting cars. Big thing the Canon has going for it is the flare resistance. It's miles ahead the Tokina. |
$650 now at futureshop =O Canon EF-S 10-22mm f/3.5-4.5 USM Lens : Wide Angle & Fisheye Lenses - Future Shop |
i just price matched the lenses at Broadway Cameras. I got a B+W UV filter too but I noticed they scammed me. They sold me this one @ $149.99 but it actually costs $89.99 B+W UVa Haze 010 77mm Filter - Broadway Camera the one i found out that also costs $149 was the slim one B+W UV Haze 010 77mm Slim Filter - Broadway Camera The price sticker on the filter even says $149.99 So I guess the flip the prices on the filter since I told them I was a newbie... fckin choked |
So go back and get your money? just make sure you don't actually have a slim filter first They may have been trying to sell you the slim because of the wide angle lens though |
I was always under the impression that the slim is better on a wide angle due to potential corner darkness. At least this is what I've read on photography boards. I have the slm CP filter on my Tokina 11-16mm and it's been phenomenal. I use the same filter with step ring on my 50mm without issue. So something to keep in mind is to spend more on a large diameter filter and use it with rings to cover your smaller lenses. |
slim filter requires you to buy a new lens cap. the canon one doesnt fit tight on the slim i returned it got one on ebay 50% of what it costs at bcc |
I just picked up a Sony Nex 3n with 15-60 lens. Any suggestions that you guys can give to a noobie looking for a better lens? Mostly for travel pics. Something budget would be great.... i was thinking of grabbing a used Sigma 30mm f/2.8. Any thoughts? |
It really depends what you're shooting. By itself the zoom should suffice for travel. The 30 would be a great walk around lens for going around towns as it would be close to a "50mm lens" Given you called yourself a newbie, I'll go ahead and explain it: The sensor in your NEX is a bit smaller than a "full frame" sensor. So 30mm isn't really 30mm. It's actually closer to 45mm (30mm x 1.5 "crop factor", so it would be a 30mm field of view that's being cropped). That's why sometimes you'll hear APS-C-sensors (like your NEX) as "crop sensors". Just keep that in mind when you buy lenses from here on out. If you're shooting landscapes though, it wouldn't really be wide enough unless you shot panoramas. So yeah, it's a great lens, but without knowing what you shoot we can't really make suggestions for you. Edit: Keep in mind that there are adapters from NEX to whatever lens mounts you want, so lens selection is abundant and possibly cheap as lint. That said, the lenses would usually be manual focus. So if that's not your thing, just ignore that part. |
I would mostly be taking pictures of touristy things when i go to Mexico next week - like the ruins, beaches, people, etc. Would the 19mm be better for landscapes/outdoors? *total newbie* lol Quote:
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If it's a mixture of things, I'd probably just stick with the zoom. I'm not too familiar with the NEX series so I can't comment on low-light/ISO performance and whether your particular model has a built-in flash. With that said, the variable aperture on your zoom lens will reduce your ability to take lower-light photographs (with/without flash if you have it) but it won't remove your ability to do so. Play around with the kit lens here before you leave. If there's a focal length that you find that you're using, then use that to determine what your next lens should be. To answer your question- yes wider is generally better when taking pictures of grand vistas or other types of landscapes. That said, it's not the best when taking pictures of people (close up, due to the distortion it produces). This is why I say stick with your zoom lens since it has the focal lengths you need for your vacation based on the info given. |
So looking for a new walkaround lens. Tamron basically gave me the middle finger for warranty on my 17-50 F2.8 VC so I'm looking for a replacement. Probably sell the bad one cheap since it still works but just experiencing friction on the wider end during zooming and focusing. Suggestions? Canon 7D body. |
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Considering that you have a 7D, I think the best match is really the Canon 15-85 f/3.5-5.6 IS. Yes, it has a smaller and variable aperture, and yes, the long end might still seem a little short. But AF is fast, and IQ is superb -- the glass and optics are L-quality even though the construction and materials aren't. Another option that I like is actually the 18-55 IS non-STM kit lens. You won't find another zoom lens more portable than this (perfect for walkaround), and if you can stop the aperture down a bit, IQ can still be quite decent. Best of all, you can find this lens for dirt cheap. |
Thoughts on the Nikon 60mm 2.8G vs. 85mm 1.8G on a DX frame? |
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For me at least, 24mm is not wide enough on a crop body. Also, be mindful that the lens does not have IS. If neither issues are important to you, by all means, it's a very good lens. |
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