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BTW, any difference between Philippines made and Japan made Hoyas? My CPL is made in the Philippines.
My 77mm Pro-1 CPL was made in Japan, and actually fell apart after 4 years of fairly heavy service (I've since put it together). My Hoya UVs from the Philippines (which I've since stopped using unless I'm at a beach or other location with flying hazards) are all in good condition. Mind you the UVs and CPLs are apples and oranges, but that's my experience with Hoyas. As with any manufacturing process, YMMV regardless of location of manufacture.
On that topic, I've been fighting the urge to pick up a new Hoya HD CPL. At $100, it's hard to justify since my Pro-1 is working just fine, just a bit loose in the glass-ring binding
Do you guys think tonight we would be able to see anything from british properties..havent took landscape photos in a while. Interested in going up there..but fog seems to thick may be a waste of time!
Stumbled upon the official service programs for some of the older Nikon cameras.
People have had success using it to correct their front or back focus on their cameras.
Going to see if doing a hard reset on my settings fixes my D7000 back-focus (Nikon recommended this before sending it in/apparently some people have had success doing this), and if not, I will give this software a try. I don't want to have my camera gone for a few weeks for what could be a simple fix.
Thinking about bringing it directly to the Nikon repair center in Richmond.
Has anyone had experience doing this and how long it took?
Yeah, I do. It's supposed to take about a week to calibrate (because they don't need other parts) but make sure their calibration equipment is actually calibrated. Cause if it isn't, it's a lot of wasted trips back and forth.
If possible, bring both the lens and body. They like to have both for testing purposes.
If you have any other q's, don't hesitate to ask. I've paid plenty of visits to their repair centre this year ... lol
Yikes! That's a horrible experience.. I wonder how many others were put in your situation from that machine. Ironic that the calibration machine was not calibrated..
In any case, I used the Nikon tool and shifted the focus as front as possible (-125) and now it's tack sharp when I shoot wide open with the correct levels of bokeh on both sides.
I wonder if you had purchased the D7000, if you could have used the built-in AF Fine Tune to fix your focusing issues instead of having to send it back and forth! Posted via RS Mobile
I wonder if you had purchased the D7000, if you could have used the built-in AF Fine Tune to fix your focusing issues instead of having to send it back and forth!
I had originally brought it in to fix the shutter after the impact damage. I probably wouldn't have chanced it using the software because I wouldn't have wanted to void my warranty on the repair coming from the depot.
Still the software isn't a bad thing to try if your camera is past its factory warranty time.
I want to try and create a similar look, just to experiment and get out of my comfort zone. anyone here tried doing this type of treatment before, possibly any tips? I'll be using a 50mm 1.8. Trying to get my hands on a 24-70mm 2.8, just to have something I can play around with instead of a prime.
Just a side note, I'll be using my k1000 aswell.
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can't spell "Real Big" without GABRIEL;)
Here's a CPS/CPN video, so take the video with a grain of salt. But I found it a very interesting watch of someone using film for almost 50 years trying their hand with digital (using a 5d3):
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If they're opened, can I still return them?
forgot about my sony rewards points on one of my CC's, can't wait till it gets here 
