Any other soarer peeps on revscene???

[1.6SOHC]

Hey just wondering if there are any other people on Revscene with Soarers. In particular that dude that crashed his Soarer at autocross awhile back. Des says he may want to part with some shinny bits. Anyways I just want to see who is in the same group as me haha.

[1.6SOHC]

Here is a pic of my JZZ30!

[65-289CI]

long shot, were you the one rolling around with no rear bumper for a bit?

[woozzle]

don't have a soarer, but I do have her hotter american cousin

[Internet]

no that was a guy named mike, traded that car to a guy in duncan for a fairlady

ive got a soarer, just my daily beater though

unknown built bottom end
t-66 single
sard piping
hks ssqv
greddy intercooler
sard injectors
hks f-con
aeromotive pump
hks twin plate clutch
kit, seats, wheels and a bunch of other shit

if you need any work done i work cheap and know what fits and doesnt fit (ie: im running a mk4 water pump with no rear housing swap)

[1.6SOHC]

I am looking for a shop to instal my new clutch when it comes in middle of next week. I know the tranny is a R154, same as the Mrk3 turbo supra. But I cant find a shop willing to instal it for me

[NashMan]

it's cake walk to do really

[snootworks]

Well, it's a cake walk if it's not a twin plate clutch and you're sober.

PS. Dickie Norts!

[NashMan]

but really doing the tranny is pretty easy the most comon thing forgotten is unbolting the persure plate from fly wheel thouth the inspetion covers

and install the same way clutch in the tranny

and runing redline mt90 tranny oil best stuff to run in the r154 hands down no ands or buts

[Internet]

ryan and i will argue to the death on this.

1.remove trans. cross member
2. loosen the 4 bolts that hold the subframe brace in (kind of kind a cross member but nothing is bolted to it) all the way so theres about 2 threads left.
3. place a jack/stand/whatever underneathe front of the motor and articulate it until the pan its the loosened cross member.
4. open up the inpection covers and pop out the clutch release fork.
5.loosen/remove the bell housing bolts and remove the trans, dont forget the reverse sensor and the speedo!

or wait a few weeks and give chris at $$$$$$$$ a call for an opening, ryan and i will bang it out real quick!

[TheSmokeShow]

i used to have a soarer i imported.... that white one

[4doorVIP]

wow Internet that must be a fun rocket you have.

No I dont have a Soarer but its 4 door brother

[NashMan]

Originally Posted by Internet

ryan and i will argue to the death on this.

1.remove trans. cross member
2. loosen the 4 bolts that hold the subframe brace in (kind of kind a cross member but nothing is bolted to it) all the way so theres about 2 threads left.
3. place a jack/stand/whatever underneathe front of the motor and articulate it until the pan its the loosened cross member.
4. open up the inpection covers and pop out the clutch release fork.
5.loosen/remove the bell housing bolts and remove the trans, dont forget the reverse sensor and the speedo!

or wait a few weeks and give chris at $$$$$$$$ a call for an opening, ryan and i will bang it out real quick!

4. open up the inpection covers and pop out the clutch release fork

or the proper way and no putting any stress on the frok collar cause they cast and can snap easy

and unbolt the cluthc cover and slide it out

not every one has tiwn plate (: and have to be froced to do it that way

[Internet]

the fork isnt cast.... nothing on the clutch is either and its just a light spring as a retainer, not stressful on anything to pop it out.

[NashMan]

the stock hub is cast i sean them break

plus it comes out easyer

[mr_baboon]

Originally Posted by NashMan

the stock hub is cast i sean them break

plus it comes out easyer

He's got you there, it does come out much easier if you unbolt the pressure plate. Sometimes there just isn't enough room in the trans tunnel to pull the trans back far enough for the input shaft to clear.

[Internet]

alright we will compromise, and with lowering the sub frame brace, theres ample room. thats why i mentioned it.

unbolt the clutch, re assemble to motor, then install trans.

[Gyuji]

I've got one. 1990 JZZ30 5spd. Currently tossing around the idea of going to a single turbo with it but I dunno where to start heh (*waits for $$$$$$$$ representative to chime in*).

[NashMan]

buy a 60to1 70 ar and 68 hot

there you go have fun

Originally Posted by Gyuji

I've got one. 1990 JZZ30 5spd. Currently tossing around the idea of going to a single turbo with it but I dunno where to start heh (*waits for $$$$$$$$ representative to chime in*).

$$$$$$$$ speaking! Depends on what you want out of it, but I would probably recommend just upgrading the two turbos and getting some good engine management. Maybe an upgraded air/air, or a pimp air/water intercooler setup. A Haltech standalone would be a great way to get more power - eliminate your MAFs and switch to MAP tuning, run a nice boost controller, and squeak some power out of it.

Single turbo requires a bit more work, and finding a high quality manifold can be problematic.

[Gyuji]

Yeah finding a non ebay manifold is looking to be a challenge.

Right now it's pretty much bone stock. The halfassed catback exhaust is the only "performance" mod. Basically I want two accomplish two things; Get rid of the aging ceramic turbos before they grenade the motor, and get at least 300hp to the wheels. A pretty modest power goal but it's my only car so I want it to be reliable too. I'm not tied to a single turbo by any means (especially since I love saying "twin turbo" ) but I'm not at all up to speed on what else is available. I'm also not exactly rolling in cash so I want to keep it reasonable.

I found this, but I've never heard of this company before. Turbo has Garrett guts though..
http://store.driftmotion.com/static/...67turbokit.php

[NashMan]

do a singel turbo much cheeper and egay manfolds are fine they work

60 to 1 70 68
550 injectors
255 walra bro fule pump
e manage or stand alone
boost controler
some sort of exhuast
ic if you want but he stock will work in 400 range
and otehr miss tid bits
your in the 400 club pending on you engine


stock 2jc usdm tiwns turbos are nice and all but rebiult ones are pricey and used one are big nono cause all of them have bean beaton on over the year's

and there heavy as sin bitch to install and don't give big power gains

after maket tiwn turbo is just money baller way to do things more weight more stuff to buy yada yada yada



aron and me talk a bunch since he careies my parts now
the dm67 is nice turbo yet blanced but 60 to 1 is about the same in spool little faster and hit a bit harder

the 57 is yawn really you will want more


well time to go take a nape chow chow

[Internet]

Originally Posted by dustinb

$$$$$$$$ speaking! Depends on what you want out of it, but I would probably recommend just upgrading the two turbos and getting some good engine management. Maybe an upgraded air/air, or a pimp air/water intercooler setup. A Haltech standalone would be a great way to get more power - eliminate your MAFs and switch to MAP tuning, run a nice boost controller, and squeak some power out of it.

Single turbo requires a bit more work, and finding a high quality manifold can be problematic.

single turbos are a plenty, just research. most fab shops can make you one no extra charge by chaning the flange on a 2j.

upgraded twins are poo on a 1j in my opinion.

and 1j's are already map's lots of cheaper plug in ecu's available than a haltech unit.

[ryanmacneil8448]

I have a soarer have had it for a few months now is stock and my daily driver.
was thinking bout doing the manual conversion