Advance Motorsport 2009 Project Car #1: AP1 S2000, Spoon Stroker, Kraftwerks, K-pro

[lookinco]

Advance Motorsport 2009 Project Car #1:
2001 AP1 S2000
Goal: Street/Track
Estimated Power: 400-450whp

Engine setup:
F22C OEM short block, cylinder bored out 0.25 os
Spoon 2.2L Stroker kit with balanced 0.25 OS piston (11.8CR), crankshaft, connecting rods:
Ceramic coated piston top
Teflon coated Piston Skirts, Crankshaft, and Connecting Rods
Rebuilt F20C head:
Supertech Stainless Steel OEM size valves
Supertech Double Valve springs
All new F22C retainers, valve guides, seals, gaskets
Spoon Head Gasket
ARP headstuds
Hondata Intake Manifold Gasket
F22C valve covers with 2006+ sensors (For Hondata Kpro)
NRG Engine Torque Damper with PuddyDad Mount
DME Radiator Cooling Plate
Krankvents
Skunk2 Magnetic Engine Oil Drain Plug
ENEOS 0W50 Engine Oil

Engine Breathing:
Megan Racing Header – Ceramic Coated
Invidia 70mm Testpipe with O2 Fix
Greddy TiC 70mm Turbo Exhaust
Custom Remote Exhaust Volume Controller

Forced Induction, Fuel System, and Engine Tuning:
Kraftwerks Supercharger YouTune System with Rotrex C30 Supercharger
Synapse Synchronic Blow Off Valve
RC Engineering 750CC Saturated Fuel Injectors
Walbro 255lh High Flow Fuel Pump
Hondata K-pro Standalone ECU
Snow Performance Meth/Water injection cooling kit

Engine Cooling:
Samco coolant hose
Mugen Fan switch
Mugen Thermostat

Transmission / Clutch:
PuddyMod Stage2 Differential Rebuild with 4.56 FD Gear
ACT Heavy Duty Pressure Plate
OEM AP1 Transmission
OEM AP1 Flywheel
OEM AP1 Clutch Disc
Skunk2 Magnetic Transmission Oil Drain Plug

Foot Work:
KW Variant 3 Coilover Suspenion
Cusco Front Sway Bar
Cusco Front lower member tie bar
Cusco Rear lower member tie bar
Cusco Chassis Ladder bar
OEM AP1 Rear Sway Bar
J’s Racing Front Roll Center Adjuster + camber kit
J’s Racing Rear Roll Center Adjuster
AP2 Rear Subframe
Megan Racing rear toe arm (Rear Bump Steer Kit)
Megan Racing front tie bar endlinks (Front Bump Steer Kit)
T1R Half Shaft Spacers

Wheel/Tires/Brakes:
Enkei RPF1 F:17x9 +45mm, R:17x9 +35mm
Bridgestone RE01R F:225/40-17, R:255/35-17
Carbotech XP10 brakepads (front)
Carbotech XP8 brakepads (rear)
Carbotech rotors
Motul 5.1 Brake fluid

Electronics:
Clarion Headunit
Braille Carbon Battery (11lb)
Racelogic Traction Control system with Launch Control

Exterior / Aerodynamics:
J's Racing TypeS V1 Aero Kit (Front, Rear bumper)
J's Racing TypeS Carbon Canards
J’s Racing Carbon 3D Type1 GT Wing
T1R Carbon Side Diffuser
ASM rear over fender (molded) (15mm wider)
Seibon carbon front wide fender (10mm wider)
Custom OEM Vented Hood
Custom Lamboghini White paintjob
LED DRL

Interior:
Custom wrapped Black Leather / Alcantara steering wheel
Custom Alcantara Shift Boot
Bride Brix II seats with Bride MO seat rails
Defi Boost Gauge
Defi EGT Gauge
Defi Fuel Pressure Gauge
AEM UEGO Wideband Gauge
Autometer Nitrous Gauge
Modifry Shift Beeper
Skunk2 Titanium Shift Knob
Black Leather Center Console Cover


We are building this project car with balance in mind. We are aiming for a good overall balance with very reliable streetability. This is not a drag machine and we are not looking to get extreme peak power from the engine which is why we chose the supercharger over the turbo. We want a high revving engine with good engine response and thus we decided to experiment with the slightly higher compression along with a mild boost setup (8 – 10psi). We will be dynoing the car one step at a time, from all NA, to boosted, to more engine and headwork. This should be a fun and interesting project. This project has just started so it will probably take a while to complete. Stay tuned for more updates as we will be taking lots of pictures along the way.

Thanks!
Happy Holidays!


Here are some pics of the car at its current stage!!



Stripped interior in the trunk and sprayed with plastic Coat:


Defi Gauges:


Seibon Fenders:


Traction Control:


KW Coilovers:


Old Engine is out:


New F22C short block still in the box:


Rebuilt F20C head:


Thanks it for now guys!

[Berzerker]

Nice project but I think your goals of 450whp are a little lofty. How much boost are you going to run the charger at? Maybe with the meth you can pull it off but still thats asking alot from that motor. What are you going to do to address the dif. thats going to blow up on you?

Berz out.

[lookinco]

We are running the kraftwerks supercharger at approximately 8psi. We have talked to Kraftwerks and with their current setup, 2.2L, stock cat, skunk2 exhaust, stock header, they are dynoed at 406WHP at 8psi. We are hoping that with a more free flow exhaust, and eventually some headwork, we could get close to 450whp. I do agree with you it might not be attainable, but we will try.

As for the diff, it's being rebuilt with a custom housing, all the gears and housing will be cyro treated, and blueprinted and built with very tight tolerance.

[Berzerker]

Thats impressive that they are pulling that kind of power with a stock header and and stock cat. Your right there is an easy 20 or so HP sitting right there. Good call on the diff. sounds like you are doing everything right best of luck to you on the build.

Berz out.

[BrendanS]

wow, I'm speechless. I can't wait to see this S2K done!

[nickmak]

holy shit.

i love it.

[Eastwood]

Great looking build!

On a side note. Why are you running forced induction with a 11.8 Compression Ratio?

[lookinco]

That is a very good question!!!

This is the part that we are experimenting
We did some math to calculate the effective compression ratio and thought the slightly higher compression might work with a mild boost setup. (8 to 10psi)

There are lots of people running their supercharger up to 12psi to 14psi of boost with stock compression ratio (11.1CR) reliably daily.

Following the formula of : ECR = ((boost psi/14.7) + 1) X engine compression ratio

12psi with 11.1CR = Effective Compression Ratio of 20.16

In our case with 11.8CR and 8psi of boost, the ECR will be 18.22. With 10psi of boost the ECR will be 19.83.

We figured an engine with a higher compression/lower boost will yield more mid range power which will be good for road track. This is especially true in the case of centrifugal charger where max boost is reached only at redline.

Obviously we will need very good tuning to make sure we are not detonating and blowing up the engine. We are also ceramic coating the piston top, as well as adding meth/water injection to lower the chance of detonating.

If in case the static compression ratio is really too high, then we will always have the option to use a thicker head gasket to lower the CR, but we will leave that to the last resort.

[Eastwood]

Originally Posted by lookinco

That is a very good question!!!

Glad to have been of service.

[impactX]

hmm... long time no see? where have you been lookinco?

[Berzerker]

Compression and Boost work well together when done right. As long as your tune is on and you don't get greedy with the boost levels this should prove to be pretty good in the midrange. IF you have problems with the compression being to high a thicker headgasket "will" reduce the compression a small amount but nothing drastic. I normally would shy against using a thicker headgasket just due to the failure rate but at 8psi you should be safe using a thick gasket. Only way to see is just to do it !

Berz out.

[RabidRat]

Replace the radio door!!

God damn.. this is exactly what I want to do to my car right down to the PuddyMod diff and Kraftwerks supercharger, and possibly the F22 bottom end. Maybe I'll come see you guys about it when the time comes haha.

There's something wrong with your wheel/tire setup.
Why is the rear wheel a lower offset than the front, unless you're modifying the hubs? And why a staggered tire setup on the same 9" wheels front and back?

[lookinco]

Originally Posted by impactX

hmm... long time no see? where have you been lookinco?

I have always been around, just been busy with work lately!

[lookinco]

Originally Posted by Berzerker

Compression and Boost work well together when done right. As long as your tune is on and you don't get greedy with the boost levels this should prove to be pretty good in the midrange. IF you have problems with the compression being to high a thicker headgasket "will" reduce the compression a small amount but nothing drastic. I normally would shy against using a thicker headgasket just due to the failure rate but at 8psi you should be safe using a thick gasket. Only way to see is just to do it !

Berz out.

Hopefully we won't need to use a thicker head gasket. But you are right, the only way is to just do it!

[lookinco]

Originally Posted by RabidRat

Replace the radio door!!

God damn.. this is exactly what I want to do to my car right down to the PuddyMod diff and Kraftwerks supercharger, and possibly the F22 bottom end. Maybe I'll come see you guys about it when the time comes haha.

There's something wrong with your wheel/tire setup.
Why is the rear wheel a lower offset than the front, unless you're modifying the hubs? And why a staggered tire setup on the same 9" wheels front and back?

The rear wheels have a lower offset because it sticks out more in the rear. That is not unusual on a RWD is it?? As for why staggered tire setup on a 9" wheel, that is mainly because the RPF1 looks better in 9" due to it's concave face. Also we will be running non staggered tire setup (255 all around) in the future.

[Leopold Stotch]

^ iuno, my friend has some 17x10 rfps and they look pretty damn nice. can't wait til they go on his car haha


but i can't wait to see what this thing can do. and water meth, makes me wanna drool.

[RabidRat]

Originally Posted by lookinco

The rear wheels have a lower offset because it sticks out more in the rear. That is not unusual on a RWD is it?? As for why staggered tire setup on a 9" wheel, that is mainly because the RPF1 looks better in 9" due to it's concave face. Also we will be running non staggered tire setup (255 all around) in the future.

It is on the S2000.

Stock offsets are +55 and +65 front to rear, respectively.

I'm somewhat surprised you didn't know that?

[lookinco]

Originally Posted by RabidRat

It is on the S2000.

Stock offsets are +55 and +65 front to rear, respectively.

I'm somewhat surprised you didn't know that?

But you do know that the rear wheels are 1" wider then the front right?

[k20a]

Shouldn't this be in the 'Member's Journal" ?

[DC5-S]

are customers allowed to test drive it? lol

[!Aznboi128]

i say more pics!!!!

[lookinco]

Okay more pics coming.

Getting the crank ready to ship out for Teflon coatings.


Took the stock F22C rods and piston out, and sent the block out to bore the cylinder.


Bling Bling, it's SPOON!!

[Berzerker]

Why if your doing all that work.. don't you get the block sleeved? I mean the peace of mind would far outweigh the cost. Especially for what your planning.

Berz out.

[!SG]

fuck you, now u got those bride seats in the car, i wont be able to sit or drive it!

[Atlantis]

yah i tried sitting in the s2k shoei, damn its a tight fit now

-ed