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You ask too many questions, just pick up the phone call PRS and ask them about the MST question as well, they'll give you way more informed and detailed answers. Dont be shy, they don't bite... except Dat. Posted via RS Mobile |
I do ask too many questions..... Unfortunately it seems like I would rather ask a bunch of ppl on RS and get mixed or wrong answers then to go and ask the people who actually know what I'm talking about who can actually give me an answer Posted via RS Mobile |
Once you pass the knowledge test, you can take the course. I believe the knowledge test is a prerequisite for the course. If you don't take the course then you have to wait the 30 days before doing the MST. The school I went to does the MST on sight. If you pass they give you a form and you can go to ICBC and get your interim license. They also booked my class 6 test with ICBC. Each school might be different so you'll have to call and ask them. Posted via RS Mobile |
Okay, but here is an honest question, is it better to have more power in the high end like the R6 or to have more power in the low revs? Posted via RS Mobile |
That is totally up to you as a rider. Everyone has different riding styles and preferences. You will find out after a season or two and you will buy your second bike accordingly. I would suggest you think where would you be riding mainly to answer your own question. If mainly city, you would rarely reach high revs but highway on the other hand, is better to have more power on the higher rpms. But that's just my opinion. Posted via RS Mobile |
you can reach the upper revs where ever you go... even in the city, going up to 15K+ redline on first is possible, but you choose not to be a douchebag and alarm all the people around you when it's crowded. |
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Like for example getting off a light then going into a turn on a wet day, woudnt having most of the power in high revs be better? Quote:
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no matter where the power of your bike is, it shouldn't be a problem if you know what you are doing and respecting the bike. for city commuting, a 250cc is definitely more than enough. i am curious as to why you thinking having power in high revs are better in for that second question. how fast would you be turning? most of the time, you would stop and then turn, or slow and without stopping, turn (say around 20km/h). you don't need high revs for that, in fact, you would probably be around 3k-4k rpm. power in low revs gives you more torque low end. so you can take off easier and easier going up hill. depending on bike, this can be trouble if you are new and panic. for example, if you rev too much and release your clutch, this may cause a wheelie and throw you off your bike (can easily happen on a 600cc vs a 250cc, 250cc is more forgiving on the throttle). if you are turning slow and decide to rev it too much, you can low side the bike. power in high revs are better when you are up to speed or on the highway. but like above, it can cause problems as well. like i said, either way, if you know what you are doing, respect your bike, ride within your skill, drop the ego, ANY bike will run fine and won't cause any problems. once you start riding, you will realize what your style is and then can decide what you want in your bike (ie. power in low rev, or power in high rev). honestly, each bike has a different power band (power in different rpm ranges) and you wouldn't really notice the difference until you start riding and building up experience. sorry for the long rant, but keep the questions coming if you got em. other than that, i highly suggest you take your knowledge test whenever you are ready and take the course. everything will just start to click. |
bikes are meant to be ridden in high revs. if u think switching gears at 3000 rpm then that's fooked up. MOST bikes... now only most, starts kicking in at 5 - 7000 rpm and that's when the fun begins. |
^ on top of that sport bike motors are so high strung that you'll ruin the motor if you're always hovering at 3k rpm lol. well maybe not ruin, but it's definitely not good for it |
I redlined the living hell out of my Vespas and my recent RD200. I plan on redlining the hell out of all my motorcycles because they're designed to operate that way. Keeping it in the lower RPMs will likely do more harm than good. |
On busy streets I usually up shift around 6.5-8K on my prev. inline4 and judging from some of the responses here I'd say that's pretty conservative :D |
yea, in the city, i usually up shift at the 6k mark. isn't the 3k mark almost idling? |
Hmmm, I rode a Honda 125cc in china, i always shifted below 6k.... Even at WOT i shifted very early..... Ive always thought shifting early means healthier for the engine, guess im wrong. |
No. These motors need to be revved up. They aren't designed like cars and are built to tighter specifications. I'm not encouraging anybody to redline all the time but I personally keep my revs higher up. Say if for example my redline was at 12,000rpm, I would rev it up anywhere between 8-10K before shifting. In the city with absolutely no highway riding, my friend on his CBR600 F4i would go only as far as 3rd only and when absolutely necessary. His motor is at 48,000km. I redline the living shit out of my Vespa. In fact, to the point where it's at WOT before I even shift. Did this on 3 Vespas. One where I tore the motor apart. It was so clean and healthy. In the end, do whatever you're comfortable with. You are the master of your own domain. :) |
Man redlining in a recent 600 on first is like going 90+ km/h :( Different story on a 250... which is why they say if u get a 250 u'll be riding it harder and be learning faster unless you take the 600 to a track every other weekend! Members at BCSB organize summer trackdays at pitt meadows. Will be going to every single one of them next year! btw sonar, if your bike is idling anywhere thats pretty much not 1000-1400 rpm (assuming it's an I4) then you might need to adjust your idle revs. Correct me if I'm wrong but the "norm" for idles on I4s is exactly 1200rpm i believe. |
Hmmm, i got my eyes scanning around for bikes, there are lots of steal of the deals but they are named "Rebuilt Status" does this actually mean anything? Dont want to save couple hundred and have to spend a couple thousand for future repairs..... |
if you scratched your fairings and went through icbc, that itself can give it a rebuilt status, but thats just aesthetic damage. bike should run just fine. on the other extreme end, forks and/or engine and what not could have been damaged from a crash before to give it a rebuilt status as well. just buyer beware and always get a pre-inspection and carfax (or other similar car reports) done. tegz, yea, i just started my bike, seems idle is around 1200-1400rpm. was just taking an eyeball guess on top of my head for that 3k rpm guess :P on the other hand, this doesn't seem so bad of a deal: 2009 Kawasaki Ninja 250r SE *Mint* $4000 |
how many ks can you get on a bike before it needs heavy maintenance??? |
define "heavy" maintenance |
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I mean i dont mind riding a 250, especially as insurance and gas is so expensive these days. But i have sat on one and i looked foolishly big on that thing. It'll probably have enough power, maybe just a bit off for a nice long highway journey. On the other hand, riding a 600, insurance will blow, gas wont be as good, but i get size and more power. Power will be more difficult to handle along with the momentum of the bigger bike. The difference is, that i wont look like a retarded giant on the bike. What bikes did you guys start off with? :fulloffuck: |
I just picked up a Suzuki SV650 this season as my first bike out of PRS and I love it! Riding position isn't as agressive as a full on super sport bike, the v-twin motor gives me great low end torque, handling is very smooth, and compared to a super sport it feels more forgiving. Everytime I head out on a ride with the SV I fall in love with it some more. Great platform to start and grow with. Posted via RS Mobile |
i just started riding and got a gsxr 600, didnt want the hassle of having to buy a 250 and then having to sell it, |
started on a gixxer 750. respect the power and be responsible and you'll be fine |
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just to be clear though, as much as you want to and many of us do, don't buy your bike based on looks. that is probably the greatest mistake of all. better to look like a fool riding a 250 for a season or two and learn properly then ending up on the gravel riding a 600 and whatever consequences that may follow. a 250 top speed is 170km/h. thats redlining on top gear, but it can easily do the 120km/h on highway. so unless you plan on getting your bike impounded, a 250 is fine for highway journeys. |
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