I have owned the both the Crud MK2 and the SKS Raceblades.

If you can fit the SKS Raceblades (LONG), get that one instead. It has sturdier mounts.

If you can't fit it, then the Crud MK2 is just fine.

It's true, the Crud MK2 are a bit finicky and flimsy, but it's a small price to pay to be able to fit a pair of fenders on a race bike (or a bike w/ low clearance). The Crud MK2 is attached by zap straps and thick rubber bands (hard to explain). So shit will shift around. The actual fender itself is a bit thin and flimsy, but it works just fine. I actually really like the fender part that extends to the BB which protects the front derailleur from spray. Works fairly well. This fender will keep your ass 100% dry, but the people behind you will be 100% wet. Your feet will get wet b/c the front fender is quite narrow, and the spray from the front tire will soak your feet. There is pretty much no way to mount an additional mudflap on the fenders b/c it's too light weight to support anything additional. (mudflap: refer to my cross bike above).

The SKS Raceblades have actual attachment points to the skewers and to a metal bracket that mounts to the brake bridge. Same goes for Planet Bike fenders. The fender itself is a hard abs type plastic, so it's much sturdier. You can drill into the fender, and mount a mudflap if you want. But if you go with the Raceblade LONG version you might not have to.

Hmmm... so you're going down in size for fall/winter? From what to what?

If I was on 25c tires, I wouldn't go to 23c for winter.... 25c you get more contact in the wet. You also don't have to run as high as a pressure, it'll be more comfortable.

You will always get rattling... just raise your fenders.

My summer tires are 25s (pro4 SC 25) but they measure more like 28s.

I have a set of pro4 endurance 23's which I haven't fitted yet, but I'm hoping they'll measure 23-25.

Ya I know I'll lose some comfort and contact patch, but I can't raise my fenders any higher. Last year the rubbing/rattling front fender was just driving me nuts, so I'm going to try this out. I may switch back if it doesn't make a difference lol.

I will most likely get the SKS race blades in that case. Don't want my feet soaked.

These days still look pretty good for riding during the day. Gonna hate november and December winter blues. I guess if anything the fenders will be good up until February then I can take them off again.

Pretty quiet on the cycling front here! Hopefully some of you are still riding and training through the fall and winter.

For those already equipped clothing wise for fall and winter, the next piece of gear I would recommend would be a high lumens front light! 650 lumens is more than enough IMO. Good enough for complete darkness. I also tested this at 10pm in fog conditions

Im doing night rides every Tuesday with my club, usually ubc/Iona/steveston Richmond loop. Rotating pace lines at night going 40+ km/h is intense!

Light & Motion Urban 650 is allowing me to ride in pitch black conditions safely. It's wicked bright, 650 lumens max with a 2hr burn time at that level. I usually have it on low which lasts 6 hours. I only go max lumens if no lights on the street and I'm solo. But in a group low or medium is more than enough.

Available at MEC

http://i1222.photobucket.com/albums/...psnxptyir1.jpg

haha, yeah the scene has been quiet once the rain sets in. With all the accidents happening in the rain, I'm afraid to ride to work now. I saw 4 ambulances at different locations while taking transit to work just on tuesday after thanksgiving. Would not want to be part of that statistic group.

Jelly of your group rides. Having to sort out some work/school issues before I can settle down in my groove and join some groups.

I was looking at getting a Cygolite Dash 320 to replace or supplement my MEC light for better visibility at night.

For me the key was just being extra careful city riding at night. Not that this is an accurate stat but I rode from burnaby to yaletown all winter (7am and 6pm, so basically dark all the time). In a way it was a lot of fun because I had the road to myself, but I always made sure vehicles saw me before attempting to pass or cross them. I see idiots all the time that just fly by cars expecting them to stop, run stop signs into oncoming traffic, bike with no lights, etc. I facepalm/smh all the time when I commute. I know how hard it is to see a cyclist when you're driving in the rain + night. For me the worst part about riding in the rain is wet socks that don't dry before the end of the day lol.

I found wool socks to be the best. Still kept my feet warm enough when wet. Best pair I own and use is the Woolie Boolie, they sell them at MEC.
Also, a panel heater under my desk to help dry out wet items. I know it's kind of unprofessional to have all this wet bike clothing drying in my office cubicle, but whatever! :toot:

Guys, who knows when the next bike rave?

This is my old(current) XC mountain bike. 2001 Gary Fisher Sugar 4(Large frame, dont know inches though). I just pulled it out of storage, its been in there since 2007 and looking to get back into it now that im in kamloops.

-Marzocchi Bomber z5 Front (130mm travel)
-Crane Creek AD-5 Rear

http://i59.tinypic.com/rhoaqs.jpg

http://i62.tinypic.com/s1iae1.jpg

http://i58.tinypic.com/243gmes.jpg


question to some of you XC gurus. I have never upgraded anything on this bike, nor do I know anything about upgrading bikes.

But is it pretty straight forward to just buy new stuff and slap it on, or are bikes as different as vehicles for modding?

Things im looking to upgrade:

-Front & Rear suspension
-Convert to disk brakes
-Gearing(since i have bent all the gear sprokets from a gnarly crash with a tree)
-and then probably tires and wheels.

I am not too sure what to brands to look for or if i should just buy a whole new bike. I have been out of the game for way too long

^ That looks very similar to my Trek Fuel 90, no big surprise though, as Trek bought out Gary Fisher.
All the items you're looking to upgrade, yes it can be done, but personally I think you should find a newer frame. Considering your bike is from 2001, it's probably seen a few miles already and the bushings on the links are possibly worn out now. And from the photo, I can't tell for sure, but it doesn't look like the rear has the tabs for disc brakes.
A new set of disc wheels and tires will set you back at least a couple hundred, another couple hundred for new fork, rear spring, etc..it's going to add up, thus why I'd would just get another newer XC bike.
What brands? There are way too many to list (Trek, Kona, Cannondale, Specialized, Transition, Banshee, Norco, KHS, Gary Fisher, Marin, Santa Cruz, etc...all make some fine XC bikes). Just stay away from the dept store stuff.
Have fun!

ya, i just took it in to get serviced at my local bike shop. So, ill just end up giving it to my wife as it would fit her better anyways since she is looking for a bike. I should probably be riding on a XL frame anyways instead of a Large.

i guess this is the start of my search for a NEW or Newer Used bike

The recent few years of the Giant Trance 27.5 look pretty nice and in a price range from 1200-2000$ new and used

What do you think is the best place to ride bike in North Van?

The fork steer tube diameters changed in the mid 2000's. A new fork is probably not comparable with the head tube on your old frame. Everything else is probably easily swapped out. In early 2000's handlebar diameters were starting to become larger, not sure if there is a standard now so a stem replacement may be required as well. Cranks will have to be swapped out with bottom brackets as new ones are probably splined and you would have a square taper.

Well it helps if you specify what type of riding you like to do.

I mean I don't think you are going to be too impressed when I tell you to hit up fromme and you show up there with your road bike...

31.8 is current standard for handlebar, there's new 35mm bar clamp for DH and some trail applications out now as well

Who's surviving Bike to Work Week out there?

I rode in today, it was warmer than expected. I have full fenders, so it's not bad.

...I don't think I'm going to ride in tomorrow, I draw the line if there's over 15mm of rain in 24 hours.

Was in today and yesterday since it was slightly drier. Monday was bad and I had meetings so no go for me that day.

Fenders did not arrive yet so it looks like I shat myself upwards with skidmarks.:heckno:

has anyone ever ordered of BikesDirect?

seems like they throw mid-high end components on noname frames. for really damn good prices. from googling it seems they are decent quality frames too. just wondering if anyone around here has dealt with them

I can't remember who exactly but there was an RS member who bought a bike from them. He got a pretty sweet deal if you ask me.

I know of a few others who bought from them however, they were experienced riders and knew what they were getting and what to look for. Good deals can be had! :woot2:

Yeah, I'm tempted to buy from Bikes direct. The price they are selling their Fuji Carbon Fibre bike: Save Up To 60% Off Fuji Road Bikes - Road - Fuji SL 1 Road bikes
is about the same as what you would get for a aluminum bike locally or a used carbon fibre bike on craigslist.

I'm a firm believer in those who just want to ride, will buy whatever brand of bike and just ride, especially when it's a smoking deal.

How do you go wrong for $1399 and get an Ultegra 6800 spec'ed bike? (sans Ultegra crank.) :woot2:

just keep in mind, at that price point, higher end aluminum frames (ie. caad10's or comparable offerings from Giant, Specialized, etc) may outperform lower end carbon frames in terms of weight, stiffness, and road "absorption".

if you're in the $1500 price point you can get a prior year ultegra/rival/force (if you're lucky) spec'd aluminum frame from the shop. I'd probably go with that if you're going to drop $1400 on an unassembled bike. something to consider! my '12 caad10-4 (rival) was picked up end of season a year ago for $1,500 out the door.

I picked up a Motobecane Super Strada from them in July. Fantastic bike, Ultegra, minus crank and brakes. It's an aluminum frame manufactured by Kinesis in Taiwan, same factory that does Felt, Trek, Kona, Jamis etc., welds are clean and no obvious faults there. The particular model has a more relaxed geometry than some roadies may prefer.

Saved a bundle as well, and only $48 (GST) after declaring when crossing back from Point Roberts. I swapped out the brake pads with Koolstops, but other than that the bike has been fantastic. I except to be replacing the FSA bottom bracket next season, due to those notoriously being points of failures, but that is a relatively inexpensive upgrade for ultegra or dura-ace in the $30 region.

Also keep in mind these bikes are not road ready out of the box, takes a tad bit of mechanical inclination to tighten and adjust things such as derauilers.