Fantastic to have riding goals!

Tbh, 100+ kms can be done fairly easily depending on what your goals are. Is it just distance? Is it a combination of climbing and distance?

100+km's done in Richmond vs. 100+km's done in the north shore / west van is very different.

Also remember it's all about pacing, and I found it a lot easier to pace myself once I got a power meter and learned how to use it.

I would say get familiar with the Richmond loop, UBC loop, Stanley Park, HSB / Whytcliff, British Properties, Deep Cove / Seymour, and then you can start stringing those rides together!

Nutrition depends on my effort... but generally:

1hr < 30km, 1 bottle of water.
2hr <60km, 1-2btl water and banana
3hr <90km, 2btl water (1 water 1 gaterade), banana, gel
4hr+, where I know I'm putting out a big effort, I have oatmeal cooked in milk, banana, raisins, topped with almonds and honey at least 1 hour before I head out. I find it easy to digest. I take in a gel every hour, salt pills, bar and always sip water.

Here are some routes that I do that start from Richmond:

100kms Steveston to Horseshoe bay return ( https://www.strava.com/activities/627963020 )

130kms Steveston, Seymour Mtn, Full Demo Forrest ( https://www.strava.com/activities/643217812 )

200kms w/ 2000m climbed ( https://www.strava.com/activities/583665727 )

200 kms w/ 3300m climbed, probably not recommended lol ( https://www.strava.com/activities/600052398 )

You are right, 100 km is not hard to do, I just need to find the time to do it. *translation; your strava shows 100+km in 3-4 hrs of moving time WutFace; I do it in ~5 :alone:
While I live in Richmond, it's so flat so I stay away. My go to routes are always from YVR +UBC loop + Stanley park + (insert north shore). I'm going to start Richmond to Grouse weekly and start looping in whytecliff pretty soon.

Appreciate the diet, I'm going to start doing oatmeal to try. Not a fan of power gels as I don't want to be dependent on it; some people swear by it.

I find the route out to grouse not 'smooth' in terms of turns, lights, interruptions etc. It's a busy place too for vehicle traffic.

If you want rolling hills do Richmond to hsb. Or do British properties for climbs it's hard to get lost up there. Those are my personal favorites as there are fewer traffic lights and vehicle traffic

Picked up a set of these Osymetrics on CL for cheap so I decided to give them a go. They were were a b*tch to get them to shift correctly and even then it doesn't shift all too well. I guess you can't really expect these to shift as perfectly as round ones.

First impressions: did a 28k ride today- first 10-12k of the ride felt really weird and awkward for my legs. I guess my legs and body grew more accustomed to the feeling eventually. I'll be putting more km's on these before deciding if I'm going to switch back to round ones.

http://i66.tinypic.com/2dlt7gj.jpg

Would you LOOK at that! That's a nice bike.

Damn that carbon weave.... :sweetjesus:

Let us know how the osymetric rings feel after getting a few more km on them. I never really understood how it is beneficial. Doesn't the elliptical motion keep moving the front and rear derailleurs back and forth? Would it cause extra wear to them?

i heard it use different muscle groups to pedal with these oval rings
let your body get used to it and see if you like it or not.

I'm selling a Galaxy coloured crankset that came with my state bicycle, it's literally brand new as I never put pedals on it. I swapped them out for my omniums pretty much the day I got it. 46 tooth, they look like:

"Galaxy" Crankset : Bike Parts & Accessories | State Bicycle Co.

selling for $60 will throw in the square taper BB for $10. Need help setting it up? I got tools.

Edit: Will throw in the pursuit handle bar for free

Gee, now you tell me! I could have used this on the Langster, or the 5 other single-speeds I've built since!

damn that's pretty sick haha

Sorry man, I thought I'd keep them as spares but they're now collecting dust and I don't think i'll ever use them since I'd rather just change out to a bigger ring with omnium crank arms.

You want some welgo pedals? I'll give those to you. They are brand new with toe clips that can go on one of your single/fixes

Also, anyone looking to buying a Vintage Specialized Groundcontrol 1997?

Pretty much looks exactly like this:

http://images10.postadsuk.com/2015/1...re-amp-tra.JPG

Man, I have to get around to taking pictures of my stuff and posting it for sale.

the oval rings are supposed to help you maintain 'momentum' when you pedal, optimizing the leverage on your power stroke and minimizing the size of the pedaling 'dead spot'.

Basically, most of your pedaling power is generated between 2-5:00 roughly, as the tops and bottoms of your pedaling stroke are typically lower in power generated. So oval rings act like a higher toothed gear where your body is able to supply the power, and a lower toothed gear where your body is not able to.

They do cause your rear derailleur cage to move some during each pedal stroke, but the front derailleur cage doesn't move at all. Difficult to set up the front derailleur to work as well on oval rings vs round rings. I have oval rings set up on my MTB's but it doesn't need to shift. And I don't notice a lick of difference on the trails oval vs round, but some people say it provides better traction and some swear by them but can't say why exactly.

Went to Burnaby mountain this afternoon to demo some Pivot mountain bikes. I got to ride this bike, a Pivot Mach 4 Carbon with XTR build...damn, it's nice. Probably the most expensive bike I've ridden, $7800! Good thing I didn't crash it!!
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/d...pswzfvbxou.jpg[/URL][/IMG]

MFW you're parting things out but didn't even post pics of the bike.

:alone:

LOL at this rate, summer will be over by the time you find a bike

I'm posting pics today and cleaning it. Sorry it's taking so long. I've changed out the tubes and brake cables to make sure it's clean before I sell. Rear tire has a rubino pro on it now to give it more life.

Bought some chain cleaner just yesterday to finish up cleaning up the bike. Sorry bud. I'll pm you my number and maybe we can whatsapp. I'll send pics over.

I don't know much about mountain bikes but
http://i.giphy.com/iFVvCSvSICc9i.gif

^ hahaha, that's exactly how I felt when the rep told me the price.
But yeah, the prices can definitely get up there depending on the build, especially if you're starting out with a nice frame.

Who's up for a ride this evening?

Edit: Scratch that, actually. Goal today, wash roubaix, get it prepped for viewing for CRS.... :okay:

Then I'll hassle him to come riding with me!

Easy for top end builds to cross over $10k these days, USD

But some crazy tech too. Carbon frames and rims to withstand MTB abuse, electric shifting, computer controlled suspension, wireless dropper seatposts, 12 speed rear end drivetrains...

Does anyone have an opinion on the new SpeedX Leopard, $1399 (US). All carbon frame/fork, internal cabling, built in computer/gps, < 20 lbs, integrated lights, Shimano 105, those new brakes, carbon wheels ... looks like a lot of bike for the price! The Tesla of bikes.

https://www.speedx.com/en/leopard/

http://tech.co/wp-content/uploads/20...smart-bike.jpg

http://i1161.photobucket.com/albums/...730_212304.jpg

Edit: had to swap pics. These cranks are so reflective, it showed me in my tighty whities after coming home from a ride.:gay:

Selling this crank set for $60. Square taper bottom bracket for $10. Both brand new. Will throw in some free pursuit bars. Prices are firm.

Endgaget posted an article about this under a month ago.

https://www.engadget.com/2016/06/30/...d-pro-bicycle/

While it seems like an insane deal, it probably has to cut some corners to get it to where it is. But then again, China labour is incredibly cheap and if they can move huge volumes of these, it'll be profit for them.

The quality will be clearly questioned. I read an article where some guy bought a knock off s-works venge and looked nearly identical. At speed the bike would wobble and they compared the modulus of the carbon and found that the counterfeight was utter crap. I'm thinking the speedx when put up to real stress tests won't handle nearly as well as a frame that was properly built by established brands. I doubt the endgaget guy put this bike through its paces. It's clearly an entry level price with some ultegra kit on it and all the smart features integrated in. Even if the kit is nice, it is meaningless if the frame does not instill confidence that it won't succumb to stress. I would say it is targetting people who are getting into it without the serious intent to really push the bike.

Not all frames are created equal. A look deep inside the carbon in counterfeit bikes | VeloNews.com

This is a separate article than the one I read on the bicycling mag. The carbon frame is ringing in some peoples' ears but I would wait for some first stress tests if this thing ever materializes (article indicates that not one has shipped yet as of June 30,2016). I wouldn't buy into something that my life is literally riding on with unknown quality descending a slope. I think he message I'm trying to get across is: "Just because it's made of carbon, doesn't mean it's good."

$0.02

That's a pretty good description of me.

Regarding the issue of carbon, here is their website description of it. Made in Japan, Toray T1000 (found out that standard is T700), 207 layer fold, ... not really sure what all that means unless you do a lot o homework.
https://www.speedx.com/en/leopard/x-carbon.html

Xspeed offers a lifetime warranty on their carbon frame. https://www.speedx.com/en/leopard/service.html

A friend of mine said that entry level carbon bikes (between $1800-$2500) are actually better for the intermediate riders, not as stiff as really expensive ones ($>3000) for races and competition. Entry level carbon is just that right blend between weight/lightness and absorption from some of the bounce but not too stiff.