I like to Ride my Bicycle...

[PHATFLIP_14]

604CEFIRO: Thanks again, for all the tips. Yeah, definitely an experience for me yesterday with clipping in/out. When the weather starts getting a bit better, definitely going to find an empty space (ie: grassy field) just to get a better feel with the clip less pedals. Really, got to get used to balancing with right leg clipped in.

My pedals btw are the Shimano SPD SL 105. Perhaps, should I consider getting a different set of clip less pedals as a beginner?

kaycee: I got a trainer at home as well and been practicing clipping in/out. However, definitely a different experience when on the road.

[bcrdukes]

SPD-SL 105s are fine. It doesn't matter what you learn on, to be honest. In my experience, it was easier to clip in/out using the SPD pedals but again, the difference isn't significant.

[604CEFIRO]

Originally Posted by UFO

I wouldn't worry too much about durability of modern day carbon parts as long as you are getting reputable stuff. Carbon seatposts and handlebars are pretty standard affair even in MTB nowadays and catastrophic failure is very very low.

That's exactly why! I think i've read so many horror stories online that it just scares me a bit... even tho my frame / fork is carbon lol.

With a change in seat, seat post, stem, and handle bars, how many lb's do you figure I could shave?

[604CEFIRO]

Originally Posted by bcrdukes

I managed to shave off 1.5lbs for less than $150 but this doesn't include my Specialized Toupe saddle.

Do share!? $150 is affordable

[UFO]

I think a high end carbon stem is about 100-120g'ish, high end aluminum can be 120-130g. Carbon seatpost about 170g, aluminum about 190-200g. Handlebar can save you another 50-75g on average. So if you're already using high end aluminum parts, going carbon may only save you 1/4 lb, if that, but you will get better ride compliance and durability in the long run. If you are on OEM or mid range level parts, you can probably save 1/2-1 lb. The absolute most noticeable place to save weight are wheels though, especially in tires/tubes/rims specifically.

A lot of people use to worry about scratches in carbon leading to stress points which will lead to breakage. The top layer of layup on most high end carbon products are merely cosmetic, scratches won't affect its strength or durability. Just follow the torque specs on clamping surfaces and regularly inspect the integrity of the parts, just like you would with aluminum parts, and you'll be just fine.

[604CEFIRO]

When you're talking high end, what brands specifically?

[bcrdukes]

Originally Posted by 604CEFIRO

That's exactly why! I think i've read so many horror stories online that it just scares me a bit... even tho my frame / fork is carbon lol.

With a change in seat, seat post, stem, and handle bars, how many lb's do you figure I could shave?

I usually take these stories with a grain of salt because really, we don't know what REALLY happened and the factors that contribute to their experience i.e. over-torquing, wear/fatigue, previous crashes or if they were horsing around etc.

Carbon fiber components and technology have come a long way, in fact, I believe they are better than the carbon fiber you see on some cars, especially hoods and rice rocket Civics. Bike companies have to maintain a high standard of carbon fiber quality because of liability. If it were as bad as we're lead to believe, I think a lot of companies would not exist today.

For me, I managed to shave off 1lb or so. My setup consists of:

- Easton EA70 zero setback carbon fiber seat post - bought used - $60
- Easton EC90 SLX handle bar @ 44cm - new/blowout sale @ $110 from JensonUSA.com
- Raceface ghetto aluminum stem @ 130mm - $10 used (Weight too small of a difference to really care.)
- Specialized Toupe saddle (you can shave off a bit with a new saddle alone) - new from La Bicicletta and part of their saddle rental program - $125
(Okay, I miscalculated but you get the point.)

The bottom line for me was the comfort and positioning of my stock cockpit components. The saddle was off the bat, painful and the handlebar was too narrow @ 42cm. The seat post, well, I could be okay with it but I came across a used carbon post for sale from an old colleague of mine so why the hell not. The stem - stock was too short so I either rode uncomfortable and slow or I do it right and get a proper stem.

For cockpit components, I would suggest shopping around and being open minded about different manufacturers. Some people (re: rich people) believe only in Zipp, Fizik, 3T or Deda components. Some people aren't afraid to mix and match (me for example) stuff from Thomson, Ritchey, Easton etc. In the end, it's whatever floats your boat and budget.

[benwang]

just found this on cl. what do you guys think ?

brand new time carbon bottle cages

[bcrdukes]

IMO, carbon fiber bottle cages are overrated.

[604CEFIRO]

Anyone know if my bikes stem measurements are behind the faceplate or something? It's definitely no where on the exterior... More specifically the angle.

[bcrdukes]

Best way to tell is with a tape measure or ruler. Take the measurement from end to end. Most stock stems are 90mm or 100mm anyway.

[azncreationz]

Originally Posted by 604CEFIRO

Anyone know if my bikes stem measurements are behind the faceplate or something? It's definitely no where on the exterior... More specifically the angle.

Depends what stem it is. Why don't you pull it off and find out? Otherwise, try matching it to something online? Perhaps post a pic?

[azncreationz]

Originally Posted by benwang

just found this on cl. what do you guys think ?

brand new time carbon bottle cages

I think, too expensive, the money could be spent elsewhere on the bike that would make more of a difference. The weight you save on those carbon cages compared to say a plastic or even the Aluminum ones I have, is very little. Of course, some guys just want the look, or want carbon to match the rest of their carbon bike.

[UFO]

Those Time carbon cages look no different than the unbranded carbon China cages you can buy on Ebay for about $20. I use Elite plastic cages which came with the bottle and it cost me $7/set from CRC

[604CEFIRO]

Originally Posted by azncreationz

Depends what stem it is. Why don't you pull it off and find out? Otherwise, try matching it to something online? Perhaps post a pic?

yea i'll have to do that... just didnt want to tinker too much as i just got the bike fit dialed in by Tom Fairs over the weekend

[bcrdukes]

^
Put tape to mark where your bar and stem were and line them up afterwards. I had to do that when I shipped my bike out to LA.

[dat_steve]

i have those ebay carbon cages. totally feel the difference when climbing

[604CEFIRO]

So looks like my first upgrade is going to be a new wheelset

Currently I have dt Swiss r1850s. They roll great but are heavy at 1850grams.

I'm looking at budgeting around $800 to spend on new wheels and a friend suggested Boyd Cycling wheels.

Anyone have experience with carbon clinchers? Word is they are not meant for prolonged steep descents. Boyd confirmed it this morning as I emailed them a bunch of questions.

Here are the two I'm considering.

Boyd 38mm carbon clinchers $840
38mm Carbon Clinchers - Boyd Cycling

OR

Boyd vitesse alloys $550
Vitesse alloy clincher - Boyd Cycling

Lots of positive reviews on these guys.

If I go carbon I can save a full pound but not the greatest wheel for long descents.

If I go alloy it's 0.8lb saved and good for all around weather and conditions.

I'm leaning towards alloy for convenience.
Posted via RS Mobile

[bcrdukes]

I would go alloy based on the type and amount of riding you do. That and I personally believe carbon wheels should be used for race day only.

[604CEFIRO]

Come on bro I'm racing EVERY day hahahhaha
Posted via RS Mobile

[heleu]

wow, those carbon wheels are worth more than my carbon bike.

[604CEFIRO]

^ boyds are way more affordable than big name brands...

ie// zipps being > $2000 a pair

[dat_steve]

i was considering the vitesse before i scored a deal on my ksyrium elites. Biggest draw for me was the crazy low weight and wide rim. Supposedly it makes a noticeable difference in rolling resistance and cornering.

[bcrdukes]

Originally Posted by 604CEFIRO

Come on bro I'm racing EVERY day hahahhaha
Posted via RS Mobile

I would actually believe you if that's what you told me, based on the amount of riding you do and your skill level.

[604CEFIRO]

Originally Posted by dat_steve

i was considering the vitesse before i scored a deal on my ksyrium elites. Biggest draw for me was the crazy low weight and wide rim. Supposedly it makes a noticeable difference in rolling resistance and cornering.

Boyd just responded and reiterated that i should go with the Vitesse's:

Hey Will, with those long descents they may or may not be ok. If you were in a pack or behind a slow moving vehicle and had to ride the brakes for a prolonged period of time that may be something that would build up too much heat for the brake track. We like to recommend the right product for what you'll be using it for and in all honesty I do think the Vitesse is the better and more practical option. I know it's not as "cool" as carbon, but it can be ridden in any terrain or weather condition.

The Vitesse with the new hubs should be ready to build on around January 25th to the 30th. Those new hubs will definitely make climbing feel a lot better with how stable they are.

Shipping to Canada is only $40 and our website is all set up for that.


Release date of ~ jan 25th is perfect b/c my GF is leaving for HK on the 23rd... so she'd be none the wiser!