Japanese Onsen + Ryokan
 

Hey guys,

Looking for some suggestions here since I haven't seen any new topics regarding Japan trip planning.

I've been to Japan 3 times already so I'm a not totally unfamiliar. I've been hitting up a lot of good eatery spots and I've been to Odaiba onsen like a dozen times so I don't want to go back there (although it's practically in the city, very close.) I've also been to Hakone already.. although I went to an average ryokan out there so it wasn't the 'best' experience.
This time around I'm going to Tokyo for only a week and I'd like to just spend 1 overnight at an onsen hotspot to relax. Any recommendations? I don't mind taking the Shinkansen or even JR out of the city for an hour or 2... but not to like Osaka or anything like that, I only plan to be out for 1 night.

My friends were suggesting that I try Izu area or Atami but I would prefer more specific suggestions like which Ryokan they stayed at, the pricing/value and what the onsen looked like and if the food was good.
I don't mind paying up to $200ish for a super nice one but $300 is just overkill. Last time in Hakone I paid $110 and it was just 'meh' ... so let me know your ideas!

TIA!

there aren't many good onsen within a reasonable ride from tokyo. a trip back to hakone is your best bet. there are dozens to choose from, all up and down the mountain. my advice is to go to a really nice one there. I know of a great one near the top, but I'll have to look it up if you want.

for the truly best onsen experience, you'll need to go to hokkaido

I've been to dozens of onsen, between Kansai and Hokkaido, so if you need specific suggestions, let me know
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Thanks for the input SkinnyPupp!
Yeah if you could help me dig up the info for the great place that you stayed at last time that would be awesome! How much was it also? Food/Decor of actual onsen & room was good? Did it have an outdoor pool as well? Also I've never been to one where they actual float a tray with sake for you to indulge while sitting in the onsen, that would be wicked! :D (apparently I only see it in movies)

The Ryokan I went to in Hakone last time was near the bottom and the Onsen itself felt like a public shower room at a community center in Vancouver :\ The food was also just medicore but at least the room itself was pretty nice and spacious.

Hokkaido is too far for me for this trip if I just plan to hit up a ryokan for 1 night :(

Hakone & Atami are pretty much around the same distance from each other ain't it? That's what it looks like from google maps.

I'll find out what it was called.

In terms of time traveled, I suppose Atami and Hakone are similar. But because Hakone has so many more to choose from, I would recommend it. Having said that, I never made it to Atami. I drove out to Izu once, but got stuck in traffic and it was closed when we got there :( The water quality should be about the same as Hakone (I don't think you can get really good spa water in Kansai). If your trip is entirely based in Tokyo, then Hakone is your best choice.

I have been to... 4 or 5 different onsen in Hakone, ranging from public day-trip baths to hotel-visitors-only private baths. There is a brand new one that I went to for a day, and I would highly recommend it. I didn't stay overnight, but the baths were excellent. It has a very rustic feel, but very 'high end' and brand new. It is right at the bottom of the mountain, and you can probably even walk there from the Hakone-Yumoto station if you aren't carrying luggage.

You went to one shitty ryokan in Hakone, don't let that ruin it for you ;) But also, some of the best springs I have been to are the older run-down ones. One of my most memorable onsen experiences was taking a tram up a mountain from Kyoto and finding this tiny little one-bath onsen open in the woods. Very rustic, kind of gross, but it was awesome :)

As far as drinking in a hot spring, that is probably a movie-only thing. Most of these places very strictly forbid alcohol consumption in the bathing area (although one in Hokkaido did have a beer counter right outside the bath! you couldn't drink while sitting IN the water, but you could take a break and have a beer. I didn't though, because it was about -15 degrees C at the time, and I couldn't stand outside naked much longer than a few seconds ;))

If you are right INSIDE Tokyo, there is an onsen at the Tokyo Dome. It's very nice there, but a bit expensive as you can imagine. If you are desperate for onsen water, as I sometimes am, then it's worth going to. Be sure to cover up any tattoos you have as they seem to be very strict about it there. Other places aren't so much, if you show some modesty and respect in attempting to cover up.

I guess that makes sense, I will probably go to Hakone since it's close by. I totally understand that 1 rotten egg doesn't ruin the whole basket haha so I'll give it another go, but like you mentioned there are sooo many to choose from ... I only got 1 night so I don't want to end up at an overpriced/shitty one again!
Have you found the name of Ryokan you recommend in Hakone yet? Which one was the brand new/high end one and how much was it? Also how was the food?

I would definitely prefer one that has an outdoor-more natural'ish onsen, those are so relaxing and beautiful!
http://japaneseguesthouses.com/db/na...pring_bath.jpghttp://www.bugbog.com/images/galleri...se-onsen-2.jpg
http://davidfromoz.smugmug.com/photos/232500211-M.jpg

I guess I will take the advice of another fellow RS'er & save the sake + onsen moment for when we get a private onsen and just order sake to the room and bring it in ourselves hehe..

Also the Onsen you mentioned in the Tokyo Dome, is that the one in Odaiba? I think that's the only onsen in Tokyo right? On my last trip to Japan I went to that one like 4 times haha (even spent a few times overnight there as well) so I kind of want to try a new one this time around... and yeah I believe they are pretty strict about tatts, last time I had a small arm band but they saw that I was speaking english so they let me, but since then I have added to it and it's pretty big now so I don't think they will let me in now?... especially since that onsen is right smack in the center of the city?

I guess there are at least 2 of them in Tokyo then ;) The one at Tokyo Dome is called LaQua. They seem very strict, so at least try to cover up with bandages like I did, and maybe they'll let you in. When I was checking in, one of the girls behind the counter was freaking out, pointing my bandages to a coworker. But he didn't acknowledge here, so they let me in. It turned out to be an interesting conversation starter with someone once I was in there, at least :)

If you're going to one of these high-end onsens, you will need to at least attempt to cover up with bandages. If you go to an older or low-end place, nobody will care. Contrary to assumptions, Japanese do NOT just assume you're a gangster because of tattoos, and they are not as taboo as they once were with most people. It's just that you ahve to understand the Japanese culture of aesthetic, and being 'proper' in certain scenarios. High end hot springs is one of of these scenarios.

Sorry I forgot to ask my friend if he remembers what the places were called. I'll get back to you on that.

As for an outdoor hot spring like in the picture you showed, those aren't very common in Hakone, but there is one that is pretty close. It's called Tenzan, and I actually went there with Ronin a couple summers ago. It was very nice, and had the rocky baths you're looking for, but not with such an open view.

Oh hmm... ok then I didn't know there were 2 either!
The one at Odaiba is really close to the Toyota Museum, you pass it on the way there via Shinkansen.

I don't get it so you were already topless when you were checking in so she saw the bandages? Maybe she thought you were like all cut-up so you were bandaged and that would be a hygenic concern lol! So once you were checked in and getting into the tub you just took off the bandages and then it was a good conversation starter with the people in the onsen?

My tatt goes over my shoulder, I guess I will just leave the tiny crotch-towel on my shoulder like the entire time I'm in there? You can't see it if I wear a t-shirt.
Do you think I should notify them that I have one prior to booking the ryokan over the phone? It would be epic fail if I reserved everything and then they won't let me in once I arrive with all my luggage LOL!...

So the name of the ryokan with the outdoor hot spring is called "Tenzan"? I'll google that and see what I get!... did you mention it's not in Hakone but close to it?
Thanks again!

The tattoo goes down my arm, so I had put some stick-on bandages to cover it up. She knew what it was, but as a foreigner you can get away with a lot as people don't want to confront you about anything ;)

Once they get wet though, the bandages become see-through :lol

IMO you should bandage it up, and cover it with a towel as well. I wouldn't tell them, just take a chance and show respect that you are covering it up. In the very small chance that they do kick you out, just go somewhere else. You're in Hakone, there are a ton of places to go.

Tenzan is a daytime spring only, there is no hotel attached to it. But it's the outdoor style you were looking for. It's a short bus ride or taxi from the Hakone-Yumoto station. What Ed and I did was stay at a hotel one night, then go to Tenzan the next day before heading back to Tokyo.

Alright thanks for all the advice!

Now all I need are the specific names of the place you recommended in your first post and also the brand new one and I can start from there to see which ones would be best! I'll have to do a bit of HW myself to research all the other onsens in the area too I suppose since there's so many in Hakone alone, but obviously each ryokan will sell itself as the best value so I needed your opinion for best "bang for your buck" place hehe ... particularly a nicer one but I don't want to pay an' arm and a leg if I can get the same experience for cheaper!... maybe I'll have to google up some blogs!

Interesting how nobody else has any knowledge on this topic hehe ...

hmm ... I wonder where that spa with the fish is?!

You could ask in the japan-guide forums, they are very helpful there. Now that you have some direction, your question should be on specific places.

The one in Obaida is like a onsen theme park. I went there. I have nothing to compare it to but when i went it was kinda fun, although a bit commercialized.

http://www.ooedoonsen.jp/higaeri/english/

http://www.fodors.com/world/asia/jap...ew-424574.html

All this talk is making me want to go back to Japan again.

all i saw were the two naked under aged girls, Obsideon, what the hell have you been doing?

HAHA JK!

Hey,

I went to a place called Kusatsu up in Gunma back in 2006. It's essentially a hot spring town. It was awesome, especially the ryokan I stayed at, called Kanemidori. Here's a few pictures, and a few links:

http://away.com/images/outside/20060...-onsen-spa.jpg

That's the hot spring thing in the center of the town, and you can walk around it and visit the public bath house, stores, restaurants, etc.

Here's the Kusatsu website:
http://www.kusatsu-onsen.ne.jp/foreign/index.html

Click "accommodations" at top for a list of all the ryokans close by.

This is the one I stayed at:
http://www.kanemidori.co.jp/index.html

Amazing service. Nice rooms that are quite big. The meals are incredible and there's a private onsen (fairly romantic) that they walk you through the woods to get to, on top of the ryokan's own onsen.

Good luck man.

The problem with quality hot springs is that you'll be paying more money for the exclusivity and food quality. I'd say don't waste time in Tokyo area. Go take a real trip to Hokkaido, Sapporo and head up by bus to NOBORIBETSU. It's an onsen town with many "resort" type of packages, which include dinner, breakfast and all you can soak.

http://chris.hosting.ca/gallery/d/16459-2/DSC_0479.jpg

Some areas of the town smell like sulpher, but they have many types of water that don't smell.

For more info, check out http://www.tohoresort.com/english/mahoroba.html. It's well worth the train and bus ride.

What did you use to bandage up your tattoo? I'm going in November and I will need something big enough to cover mine up(chest, shoulder, back). Also something I can find easily there to use would be awesome too.

Onsen
 

Sorry dont know if you guys still need info.

In Decemeber 09 we went to an ryokan called Kashiwaya. It was super awesome, maybe cost about $120 CDN pp per night. Came with breakfast and dinner, there were private outdoor onsens as well as indoor public (same sex) ones. The food was SUPER good, one of those 10 course Japanese style breakfast and dinners.

I think it's still in Kansai, in Gunma prefecture (the initial D mountain is real close to it). It's about a 2-3 hour train ride north of Tokyo with only 1 transfer. Once you get to Nakanojo town, you take a bus ride on a public bus for about 25 minutes costs about $10 CDN then you hit the ryokan.

It's a typical small town, only one street with ryokan and small shops lining it. Very pleasent and SUPER relaxing.

Here's their website: http://www.kashiwaya.org/e/

They speak limited English and were super friendly. PM me if you want pics of the food and other pics of the onsens.

I used sticky bandages, but they didn't work well AT ALL. They only stick to skin, not to each other, so they come off easily once they get wet. Look for something better, or go to a place that won't care about tattoos. I find that only the 'snobby' places make an issue out of tattoos.

Old thread but this place looks awesome.

Can't help with a Tokyo one, but if you change your mind and make your way to Kyoto, and have a bit extra to spend, we stayed at Hiiragiya Ryokan. AMAZING place. Nestled in the city, but you'd never know, it's so quiet and peaceful.

We stayed one night, included an 18 course dinner (or something crazy, maybe it was 16) served by a woman in full kimono dress, and breakfast the following morning. Everything we wanted was catered for, and the rooms were massive.

Fabulous place. Ryokans are great places to check out!

http://www.hiiragiya.co.jp/en/

I think it was $1600 for the one night, between four people.