mobil 1 0w-40 is apparently a group iv oil.

I agree that's probably quite likely. It's tough to get that kind of viscosity spread with conventional basestocks.

I just change my oil whenever I can here a difference in the engine noise
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Hi all, here are two links that will be of interest to anyone actually wanting to learn more about oil. They are SAE (Society of Automotive Engineers) technical papers written by Engineers and Tribologists, so don't expect a Dr. Seuss bedtime story. But if you're willing to read them in detail you'll definitely learn something.


A Study on Longer Drain Intervals
http://rapidshare.com/files/399909274/Drain_Intervals.pdf.html

The Effect of 0W-20 Low Viscosity Engine Oil on Fuel Economy <- Performed by Honda Japan.
http://rapidshare.com/files/399909604/SAE_0w20.pdf.html

How does your engine sound different?

What type of synthetics are you referring to? True synthetics (Group IV+) or "synthetics"?

Also, GC and Motul 8100 are group IV right?

Sounds more tired and almost tinny
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Yes.

I'm really happy that this thread is informing/educating people. I should re-phrase that this thread can also be for questions regarding the oil, change intervals, and filters that members have for their car. Then other members can help them out by leading them the proper way. I'm seeing quite a few people doing exactly that and members like "Liquid Turbo" is doing a great job of explaining. :D So if you guys have any questions regarding the stuff you use, don't hesitate to ask! This thread is for all the questions you have or what not.

I'm just trying to make a thread that educates people (RS has been lacking threads like these :/). So please keep the thread as civil as possible. :thumbsup:

Has there been a recent shootout or comparison of the current blended synthetics out there? ie. mobil/castrol/vavoline etc... Just curious which one is better.

Spent oil doesn't offer any sound dampening effects, so I'm pretty sure it's just psychological. Post a vid of the engine sound before and after an oil change, it'd be interesting to hear any difference.

Question: Will OEM filters last long enough for the extended drain intervals with synthetic? I'm talking about 10k-12k intervals.

What kind of filter, for what car? For extended intervals it's advised to use a quality filter like Amsoil EaO, Pure1, Wix. These filters have sturdier construction with the steel endcaps (as opposed to cardboard in Frams) and in the case of the Amsoil EaO, extra filtration media. It's just extra assurance that the filter media won't deform or the bypass valve failing - though I haven't seen a case where an OEM filter ever failed in that region of interval. For my car I just use the Honda OEM filters. They work just fine, I cut one open one time and it was fine for a 12k interval. Should've taken a photo, my hands were way too oily though :D.

^I see, I'm using JDM Green Hamp filter + Motul 8100 5w-40 right now...08 CSX-S.

It's recommended to change oil when the Oil Life Meter is at 15%...and that was ~6000km with the OEM 5w-30 (it's "semi-synthetic"...dunno what the means). So I'm planning to take the Motul up to 10k...which should be pretty safe right?

^

You're still under warranty w/ the CSX right? If so, I would adhere by the OLM because if you need your warranty, they might hassle you, blaming extended oil intervals.

BTW, JDM HAMP is a great filter for the K20Z1/Z3.

^ As long as you show receipts and have written down the oil change intervals, the warranty should still be intact.

Nice thing about the K20XX engines is that all the UOAs show them to be very easy on oil.

Check out this report from forums from Bobistheoilguy of a 06 Civic SI (similar engine )

This is how he drives:

"Driving Conditions: I still commute 65 miles round trip each day, but for the past 4 months I've started doing some more in between trips (grad school). On this oil change, I've never driven the car harder. I cruise at 4000 rpms (about 80mph). I hit redline/tap the 8300 rpm fuel cut somewhere between 5-8 times a day, and usually in 2nd, 3rd, nd 4th gear. I sometimes let the engine brake at 6000 rpms for a minute or two.

I never beat on it till it reaches operating temperature (i.e. 15+ minutes of driving). I never drive it until it's been idling for 15-20 seconds, in the cold it's more like 45-60 seconds. I never idle it for more than 2-3 minutes straight. I typically drive it between 3000-4000 rpms to help it warm up."

26-36k on engine: Amsoil Series 2000 0w30
36-50k on engine: Amsoil SSO 0w30
50k-66k on engine: Amsoil SSO 0w30
~66k-77k on engine: Pennzoil Platinum 5w30 (this UOA:)
http://i980.photobucket.com/albums/a...t16-Dec-09.jpg

Note that this is all in miles. He's been doing 16,000 MILE (24,000km) intervals and his 06 Civic SI is now over 120,000km. And he doesn't baby his car either. He ran this interval 'only' till 10,000miles, (16,000km) because he was curious how Pennzoil Platinum would perform. And it did well.

I would bet a case of beer that your CSX could easily tackle 10,000km no problem, especially with a nice 'synthetic' oil, like M1, Motul 8100v, or PP. Do a UOA at the end of the 10,000km and check if you want even more peace of mind. The info would give you a good baseline on how to run your next several oil changes.

^


shit maybe i shouldnt change my motul so often than, thx a lot for the decent data and knowledge

appreciated
:thumbsup:

but i guess even if my milleage didnt rack up as quick, when the timeline is due...i should still change

every...6 months - 12 months ish? depending driving habite

If you're paying extra for a nice quality, expensive synthetic, you might as well use it's benefits that make it more expensive.

Part of those benefits is better ability to keep shear stability over a longer interval. So why dump it at 3,000km?

For K20XX owners, changing 2-3times a year is more than enough. If people drive 24,000km a year, then 4month 8,000km intervals are just fine. They got bigger problems to worry about at that point.. like 2nd gear grind :D

Agreed on the above post.

I'm waiting for my kit to arrive and I'll test my Mobil1 0W-40 after a track day later this year. The oil by then will have 6000km on it.

I highly recommend finding some time and going onto Bobistheoilguy and read some of the stuff there. Lots of people have done UOA on some of the more common brands and grades of oil and some of the people there are current/former employees from certain oil companies. I can't remember who is who off the top of my head, but LT is bang on about "Johnny" being a retired Shell person. And if you go there, you might see LiquidTurbo trolling there. =)

LT, there was some advancement on the S2k TCT and M1 issues. Gotta dig up the thread, but IIRC, there is some belief that the M1 lubricated too well which caused the TCT to fail. =P

I still have my UOA kit but have been too lazy to record any of my data to send off to get the oil analysed. I think I add about 1L of oil every 2500 km's. Might be a bit more than that.

Sweet, thanks for the info LT. Seems like PP is a very good oil too...why's it got so much more Moly than the Amsoil?

PP is pretty cheap at CT, am I right?

^

Moly is added as an antiwear additive, the factory fill Honda has much of it. This is parts per million, even though 33ppm seems like much more than 8ppm, in reality the difference is minuscule. It's just a different formulation.

By far the cheapest place for PP is in the states. $20 USD for a 4.7L jug. It's $37 at CT last time I checked. That's a big difference! Everytime I go to the states I stock up =D

When you get the results please post! Would be interesting to see.

FYI: Pennzoil Platinum is on sale at CT for twenty-something staring tomorrow.
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