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Old 06-16-2010, 03:57 PM   #1
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Fender rolling experts, please chime in!

This should belong in the "Autobody" subsection but I figure I'd get more traffic here.

How might one go about rolling the rear fenders when they've been cut/trimmed?

I've tried with a fender roller but it didn't seem to make a difference no matter how much pressure was applied onto the metal.

Reference pic (not my car):


My car is also lowered quite a bit so it seems like the roller tool is too "long" to get a good angle on the fender. I know there's another hole on the tool (Eastwood) that allows you get more angle but the thing wouldn't budge for some reason.
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Old 06-16-2010, 04:20 PM   #2
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take out your coilover or unbolt the top let the suspension sag. then jack up the LCA with a steady jack or jack stand.. and giver
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Old 06-16-2010, 05:53 PM   #3
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I use a few different diameters of tubing a heat gun and an intuitive feel. Similar to the old baseball bat method. By doing so it uses the weight of the car to stretch/pull the fender and by starting with a smaller diameter tube and gradually going to a larger diameter tube with an increasing angle it gently pulls the fender and stretches the metal so it maintains its new shape.
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Old 06-16-2010, 06:01 PM   #4
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^phil how much will u charge for roll? LOl
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Old 06-16-2010, 06:04 PM   #5
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30-75 a fender, depends how far and bondo is one of the many factors for how far I can go.
The most I've pulled a fender using this method without major paint issues is about 1 inch
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Oil change special $70 5 liters synthetic oil including OEM filter Fender rolling from $45 per fender
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Old 06-16-2010, 06:57 PM   #6
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it's easier to pull fenders after they've been cut, if you roll your fenders it leaves more metal back there for you to have to bend when you're pulling. Are yours cut or rolled ?

Jing that's a pretty bad angle it looks like I cut the fenders all crooked, here's a better angle where you can see how straight my cut was.
Keep in mind when I decided to cut, I didn't really care if I chipped the paint or fcked it up because I was going for a repaint soon anyway.
If I was to do it again though, I would still prefer cutting over rolling, lot less chance of cracking the paint, just cut and silicone seal, all you need is a steady hand and dremel.


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Old 06-16-2010, 07:26 PM   #7
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Rear fenders were cut straight by the previous owner.

bikerx: I had thought of that but was hoping there might be an easier solution lol.

Phil@rise: If all else fails I'll try the pipe method. I'd like to try it again the proper way with a roller first though!

G-spec: What type of silicon sealant are you referring to? This type?

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Old 06-16-2010, 07:36 PM   #8
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nope, automotive silicone sealant, either clear or black doesn't matter. I got mine at Canadian Tire, marine grade shit is about as tough as it gets since it has to stand up to saltwater and extreme weather changes, here is the link.

http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/brows....jsp?locale=en
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Old 06-17-2010, 10:09 AM   #9
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Without experience I dont recommend the pipe method you will almost certainly fuck something up. You only learn this method through trial and error and error almost always comes before success.
Well it did for me
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I can be reached VIA text @ 778-232-1465

Oil change special $70 5 liters synthetic oil including OEM filter Fender rolling from $45 per fender
Car Audio:
Focal, Morel, Genesis, Clarion, Scosche, Escort, Compustar, GReddy, Blitz, Tomei, Motul, Endless, Defi, Cusco, Nismo + More


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Old 06-17-2010, 11:54 PM   #10
What hasn't Killed me, has made me more tolerant of RS!
 
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lol @ "proper" shop doing it with a pipe.
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