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Hmm, well I think for someone like me who doesn't know much or have much experience with knives, I gotta start somewhere. I'm glad this thread exists so I can refer back to it. I tried out my chef knife last night and it was pretty good, mind you coming from the piece of shit knife set I had before it didn't take much to impress me.
It also depends on how much time one spends in the kitchen. I try to keep my meals simple or else it takes up too much of my time. But I'm gonna make good use of my Crockpot this winter and make big batches, for health and budget reasons. So I'll get good practice with my knife set; see how the chef and paring knives work, and maybe upgrade
Just like anything I can see how specific and technical it can get. I've learned over the years to pay a bit more for quality and reaped the benefits. Tools, clothes, electronics...definitely makes a difference.
I'm guessing the set you got was one of the Henckels Internationals? More or less the steel on those is as cheap as it gets for Henckels, it works for the most part but you just won't be getting a laser edge on it, nor will the edge hold for as long. It's fine if you keep up with the honing and sharpening. I've a set at home, it's worked for years.
The Fibrox knives suggested above are a good step up, and won't break the bank. The one thing to watch out for on Japanese knives with hard steels (ie. VG-10 on the Tojiro DP) is they're more brittle; a bent edge on a German knife would be a chip instead, drop the knife onto something hard and the tip snaps off (probably applies to most knives I guess). As long as you're careful and not cleaving bones with it, the crazy sharp edges are nice to have.
I'm using a Hiromoto AS at home, gets insanely sharp with little effort, it just might rust if you're not careful. Tradeoffs with carbon steels.
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so i've narrowed the knife i'm going to get from ebay down to either a Tojiro Pro or a Aritsugu (both santokus)
the Tojiro looks cooler, to me, with a metal handle and damascus finish, but i read from a knife blog that anything from Aritsugu is better, regardless of model/price
any suggestions? am i safe either way?
or could i just go down to a Tojiro DP, with the 'wooden' handle and get just as/almost as good quality? that way i could get two knives
FYI, Aogami super, aka blue steel is a type of carbon steel.
Meaning it'll rust.
You see where that line between the 90% of the blade transitions to that final 10%?
That main part is still blue steel, just covered in a thin stainless jacket.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Culverin
FYI, Aogami super, aka blue steel is a type of carbon steel.
Meaning it'll rust.
You see where that line between the 90% of the blade transitions to that final 10%?
That main part is still blue steel, just covered in a thin stainless jacket.
awww if it were just me using it than id be fine with caring for it, but i just know i'll be the only one caring for it properly and my cousin etc will just dump it in the sink etc
awww if it were just me using it than id be fine with caring for it, but i just know i'll be the only one caring for it properly and my cousin etc will just dump it in the sink etc
thanks for the heads up
Keep your new knife away from him haha. Super blue is an amazing steel though, apart from the part where it can rust.
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^^^ lol fat chance of doing that :/ ah well i decided not even to get the Tojiro Pro 63 layer Damascus, as the more i thought about it, i fear they'll get mistreated :/
Just ordered the tojiro 37 layer ended up costing me $43 after using the ebay voucher
Spoiler!
was going to go cheaper, but the handle of the other one wasn't as appealing
ah well, thanks guys
oh and i ordered these tojiro kitchen shears
Spoiler!
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30% off Shun Knives at House of Knives.
Just use the coupon code Shunres30. Lasts until Remembrance day, orders have to be over $100
Courtesy of the Bandedge membership.
tried using the code with the Shun knives that are already on sale didn't work
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will just be using it to split chicken or to cut open raw food packaging
watched a video where some guy was prepping soft shell crab with them and he seemed to cut through parts of the shell with ease... crabs were alive though
Cheap, but I've never heard anything super positive about AliExpress for knives.
Nothing negative either.
Just, nothing.
Nobody on the knife forum even mentions them,
and there are crazy people that try everything there.
So if you want to be a guinea pig, be my guest.
If you do get it, I would like to see it first-hand.
Cheap, but I've never heard anything super positive about AliExpress for knives.
Nothing negative either.
Just, nothing.
Nobody on the knife forum even mentions them,
and there are crazy people that try everything there.
So if you want to be a guinea pig, be my guest.
If you do get it, I would like to see it first-hand.
I was hoping one of you guys would be the guinea pigs
I already have some VG10 hattori's so the next purchase is gonna be high carbon. I saw some tojiro dp's in person and they looked decent so I imagine the carbon to have similar quality.
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What are you pros using for paring knives?
I have a sheep's foot Wusthof and had it for years.
But I never liked using it for some reason. I think it's the knuckle clearance to the board when I'm cutting small things?
I've had my Victorinox paring knife (traditional shape) for about 6 months now,
and notice I grab for that every time over the Wusthof.
It's 1/10 the cost and only moderately sharp.
What are you pros using for paring knives?
I have a sheep's foot Wusthof and had it for years.
But I never liked using it for some reason. I think it's the knuckle clearance to the board when I'm cutting small things?
I've had my Victorinox paring knife (traditional shape) for about 6 months now,
and notice I grab for that every time over the Wusthof.
It's 1/10 the cost and only moderately sharp.
Will likely need an upgrade this year.
I have the hattori HD paring knife and I don't recommend it. Not for its current price.
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I only use my 130mm petty knife. I never need a paring knife since I rarely cut anything in my hand. I also sharpen my small offset spatula for if I do happen to cut something in my hand LOL.
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Westopher is correct.
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seems like you got a dick up your ass well..get that checked
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Well.. I’d hate to be the first to say it, but Westopher is correct.
I'm just learning how to whetstone sharpen. I'm wondering if there are different tests I can do to verify I successfully sharpened at a particular grit?
For example:
400 Grit should ?
1000 Grit should slide cut through paper but not push cut?
4000 Grit should push cut through rolled up glossy magazine page?
Leather strop should make a horizontal slice through a tomato without anything holding it down?
I'm trying to sharpen an old knife and at 400 grit it doesn't do anything to paper and I have no idea to keep going or move up to 1000
Last edited by electronblue; 03-09-2016 at 12:07 PM.
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Sharpness will come from your coarse stone (Sub 600 I think?)
If sharp, a 400 should shave arm hair.
You could move up to a 100 like unit mentioned, except if it's still not sharp at 400 then you still need to work on technique.
Did you form a burr? Then remove it?
That's where I went wrong with my first year of sharpening.
I skipped that.
I think higher grit = less "tug" on the blade when slicing.
It'll be a smoother cut.
I think going "through" stuff has to do with blade thickness "behind the edge",
as in the thickness of that first 0.5 cm.
And the horizontal tomato thing... Unsure if that's a proper metric for it.
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if it were just me using it than id be fine with caring for it, but i just know i'll be the only one caring for it properly and my cousin etc will just dump it in the sink etc
