You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our free community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today!
The banners on the left side and below do not show for registered users!
If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact contact us.
Loose Rotor on 1998 Toyota Corolla. Need a FIX pls
I have a loose rotor on my driver side.
Even with the tire on, it would still wobble. When i remove the tire, i can wobble the rotor back and forth. I dont think this is normal, so i checked the front passenger side for any wobble. It does wobble but just a tiny bit.
The driver side would wobble like 2 cms out and 2 cms in.
Thats my situation.
Whats the solution to this ?
I dont feel safe driving my car right now.
What part do i have to change ? I read about it on google searches, that i have to change the wheel bearings, i have to replace the rotor.
If your rotor is moving around, the issue is most likely the wheel bearing. Have that checked out. I can almost assure you that's the problem.
If it is the wheel bearing, have it replaced quickly. The entire wheel and hub assembly almost separated from my friends car due to a worn wheel bearing.
There's no way your rotor is loose if the wheel is mounted unless the rotor is physically broken. The rotor is sandwiched between the wheel and the hub face so there's almost no way this is the case.
By what you described my guess is either the wheel bearings, tie rod ends or ball joints are worn out.
Originally posted by v.b. can we stop, my pussy hurts... Originally posted by asian_XL fliptuner, I am gonna grab ur dick and pee in your face, then rub shit all over my face...:lol Originally posted by Fei-Ji haha i can taste the cum in my mouth Originally posted by FastAnna when I was 13 I wanted to be a video hoe so bad
yeah when the wheels off theres nothing holding the rotor. when you brake does the steering wheel wobble? when the wheel is on, there is free play when you try moving it up and down? how about side to side? its common the front wheel bearings screw up and damage the hub as well. can't remember if they make that banging noise though..
If your rotor is moving around, the issue is most likely the wheel bearing. Have that checked out. I can almost assure you that's the problem.
If it is the wheel bearing, have it replaced quickly. The entire wheel and hub assembly almost separated from my friends car due to a worn wheel bearing.
Ok thanks, i was leaning towards that when i was reading google searches.
Quote:
Originally Posted by fliptuner
There's no way your rotor is loose if the wheel is mounted unless the rotor is physically broken. The rotor is sandwiched between the wheel and the hub face so there's almost no way this is the case.
By what you described my guess is either the wheel bearings, tie rod ends or ball joints are worn out.
yeah, even when the wheel is sandwhiched in between the lug nut and the rotor, i made sure that the wheel is in all the way before tightening the lug nut.
Then i would proceed to shake the driver side, and it would wobble for some reason. I did the same with passenger side , 90% less wobble .
Quote:
Originally Posted by nickmak
yeah when the wheels off theres nothing holding the rotor. when you brake does the steering wheel wobble? when the wheel is on, there is free play when you try moving it up and down? how about side to side? its common the front wheel bearings screw up and damage the hub as well. can't remember if they make that banging noise though..
hmmm..when the wheel is off, brake ? is that what your saying ? if so, i havent tried that.
but when im driving, braking doesnt affect my steering wheel, just when im turning slightly to the left , only slightly. it would make that noise.
Sounds like a wheel bearing. If your wheels aren't seated properly then your rotor could be moving but then so would your wheel. All the above potentially dangerous situations.
__________________ Rise Auto Salon
11938 95a Ave Delta
I can be reached VIA text @ 778-232-1465
Oil change special $70 5 liters synthetic oil including OEM filter Fender rolling from $45 per fender Car Audio:
Focal, Morel, Genesis, Clarion, Scosche, Escort, Compustar, GReddy, Blitz, Tomei, Motul, Endless, Defi, Cusco, Nismo + More
We specialize in:
Custom Car Audio
Race/4x4 Fabrication
Forced Induction
Engine Swaps
General Maintenance
Originally posted by v.b. can we stop, my pussy hurts... Originally posted by asian_XL fliptuner, I am gonna grab ur dick and pee in your face, then rub shit all over my face...:lol Originally posted by Fei-Ji haha i can taste the cum in my mouth Originally posted by FastAnna when I was 13 I wanted to be a video hoe so bad
Originally posted by v.b. can we stop, my pussy hurts... Originally posted by asian_XL fliptuner, I am gonna grab ur dick and pee in your face, then rub shit all over my face...:lol Originally posted by Fei-Ji haha i can taste the cum in my mouth Originally posted by FastAnna when I was 13 I wanted to be a video hoe so bad
if that big nut was loose, and nobody tampered with it, you probably need a wheel bearing... which isn't a job the average do it yourselfer can do...
the cotter pin and the jagged piece only serve the purpose of being a preventative measure so the large nut that holds your CV shaft onto your hub and wheel bearing has no chance of working itself loose... but that nut is supposed to be torqued to 200+ ft lbs... even without the castle and pin, i've never seen one become loose...
replace the wheel bearing and hub...
__________________
__________________
VZN185 - 32" BFG AT, 32" TOYO MT, OME suspension, ARB bumper, Warn winch, 3sixty LED light bar, TRD trans cooler, TRD exhaust, AMT sliders, budbuilt skids...
ZWA10 - stock F-sport with LEDs... fng@regencyauto.com