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What’s everyone using for a dash cam these days? Looking at replacing my DR400G with something newer.
Rexing V1-4K running this one right now.
I like the wifi transfer capability so I don't forget to bring my sd card back down lmao takes a minute though. Vid quality is good but I don't bother using the 4K setting since it takes up so much freaking space and takes a long time to transfer out using wifi.
What’s everyone using for a dash cam these days? Looking at replacing my DR400G with something newer.
The BlackVue DR590X would be the modern day replacement for your camera. Has all the features the DR400G has and a bit more. Or they also have the DR900X which shoots in 4K UHD.
You could also look at Thinkware branded ones, they're pretty good as well. FA200, Q800 PRO, and U1000 are the most popular models.
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oOoOooOOo what does this space do
-2018 BMW F30 340i M Performance Edition - Current
-2016 BMW F32 435i MPPK - Traded
-2011 BMW E92 335i - SOLD
-2009 Chrysler Sebring Convertible - SOLD
The BlackVue DR590X would be the modern day replacement for your camera. Has all the features the DR400G has and a bit more. Or they also have the DR900X which shoots in 4K UHD.
You could also look at Thinkware branded ones, they're pretty good as well. FA200, Q800 PRO, and U1000 are the most popular models.
Do you think it'd be worth it going all the way up to the U1000? It's on sale right now at Best Buy for $575 and is cheaper than blackboxmycar
Quote:
Originally Posted by DJ Milk
Thanks for doing the original group buy for that in 2012
I decided to just stuck with the same brand and went with the DR750S 2 channel.
No worries can't believe it's been that long since that group buy haha
How are you liking the DR750S? I'm pretty torn at which one to buy lol back then it was pretty easy since it was really only the DR400G available at the time / was easier to get lol.
Quote:
Originally Posted by SSM_DC5
How many times have you had to replace the internal battery on the dr400g? I gave up after 1 or 2 changes and just bought a 2ch instead.
I have not replaced it at all... maybe that's why it's not working as intended. I've been checking the footage every now and then and even for a drive I just did I wouldn't see the footage at all when before I would.
My Blackvue DR600 got that boot loop issue after 4 years, which is annoying. Got a 750LTE to replace it since I just wanted to plug and play instead of rewiring it all for a new camera input but the rear camera occasionally has sensor issues. If my car wasn't already wired for a Blackvue, I would not get a blackvue again. They've been around for a while now but their reliability is still meh... and they're the priciest still.
usability might be questionable but can't beat 4th gen sony starvis 4k for $160
xiaomi 70mai also uses the same sensor in their latest a800, but i can't find any canadian retailers for it rn..probably because it undercuts everybody by $300
No worries can't believe it's been that long since that group buy haha
How are you liking the DR750S? I'm pretty torn at which one to buy lol back then it was pretty easy since it was really only the DR400G available at the time / was easier to get lol.
I have no complaints. I don't have any issues with it in the last 3 years and I'm still using the original memory card too.
I just bought three 70mai A500s from AliExpress for friends and family. It has more features then my Blackvue DR750S. It even has lane departure warning but it does get annoying after awhile LOL. It came to about $110 each and take between 14-17 days to arrive after placing the order.
I just bought three 70mai A500s from AliExpress for friends and family. It has more features then my Blackvue DR750S. It even has lane departure warning but it does get annoying after awhile LOL. It came to about $110 each and take between 14-17 days to arrive after placing the order.
Do you need anything else like a Power Magic Pro to hardwire it for parking mode? Or everything is there?
edit: I noticed there is several versions, but there isn't one that has front and back with the hardwire kit?
It's like front dashcam with hardwire kit or front and back dashcam (no hardwire kit)?
__________________ __________________________________________________ Last edited by AzNightmare; Today at 10:09 AM
Do you need anything else like a Power Magic Pro to hardwire it for parking mode? Or everything is there?
edit: I noticed there is several versions, but there isn't one that has front and back with the hardwire kit?
It's like front dashcam with hardwire kit or front and back dashcam (no hardwire kit)?
I don't use it for parking mode so I can't help you there. But the front, back, and hardwire kit is there. It's about $130 with the hardwire kit
Did anyone use a dashcam that comes with an electrostatic sticker?
From my understanding, you stick the electrostatic sticker on the windshield, and then stick the 3M tape on top of it. So essentially, the 3M is not being stuck directly onto the windshield. Is this some new trend?
The last dashcasm I installed was 5 years ago, and you just stick the dashcam directly onto the windshield with 3M tape. Is this electrostatic sticker strong?
__________________ __________________________________________________ Last edited by AzNightmare; Today at 10:09 AM
This is the first time I've heard of it, but it looks like a way to stick the camera to the windshield that is reusable and doesn't leave glue residue. I haven't had trouble removing the 3M stickers, sometimes they fall right off during the summer. The power wire stops the camera from hitting the ground.
This is the first time I've heard of it, but it looks like a way to stick the camera to the windshield that is reusable and doesn't leave glue residue. I haven't had trouble removing the 3M stickers, sometimes they fall right off during the summer. The power wire stops the camera from hitting the ground.
lol, I had the same issue. The heat from the sun removes the dashcam and it's clean with no residue. I'm wondering would it be any better using this static sticker. But I guess the 3M would just melt off the static sticker then.
__________________ __________________________________________________ Last edited by AzNightmare; Today at 10:09 AM
I've had the A800 for about a year now with no issues. Hasn't fallen off using the static sticker.
Only annoyance is that they have their watermark on any videos I download. It's cheap enough (sub $200 with rear camera and hardwire kit) that I just don't care enough about.
Ended up ordering an A800S and A500S for both vehicles. My original Blackvue dr400g (RS Group Buy from 2012) finally kicked the bucket.
For the price and functionality, it is hard to beat. Watermark isn't an issue since the footage would only be used for insurance/accident purposes or for the lols if it catches something interesting to share.
__________________ Posted from NE 1-J W Inglis Building
Here's a recent vid from my older garmin dash cam 20, what I like about it is that it records decent audio. I used this camera in lots of my old mission drag vids. The image is better than the Yi I in my EJ1.
I bought another new Garmin not long ago, to my surprise the Canadian model does not record audio. Then it failed in just over a year, Garmin customer service offered to sell me one with a minor discount off retail. Fail
So I installed the 70mai A500 dashcam with the hardwire kit on my parents car several months back. It seems like it's ok if my parents drive everyday, but if not, the battery dies.
It turns out that the voltage cutoff on their kit is set at 11.4V which is too low. Is there anyway to change it to 12V?
Kind of annoyed right now, considering pretty much every source on the internet says it requires about minimum of 12V to reliably start a car, I'm not sure why this was even built to cut off at 11.4V unless it's a regional thing.
__________________ __________________________________________________ Last edited by AzNightmare; Today at 10:09 AM
So I installed the 70mai A500 dashcam with the hardwire kit on my parents car several months back. It seems like it's ok if my parents drive everyday, but if not, the battery dies.
It turns out that the voltage cutoff on their kit is set at 11.4V which is too low. Is there anyway to change it to 12V?
Kind of annoyed right now, considering pretty much every source on the internet says it requires about minimum of 12V to reliably start a car, I'm not sure why this was even built to cut off at 11.4V unless it's a regional thing.
What kind of car? How old is the battery? I would start with checking the draw and then check with that camera disconnected.