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Look at these gems https://twitter.com/VancouverPD/stat...838197255?s=20 |
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https://ae01.alicdn.com/kf/HTB1QsUaf...inals-Tool.jpg When using one of these fuse taps, does both fuses need to be the same amp? And does it matter which way the fuse goes in (amp number right side up or upside down?) |
Fuses are just metal of certain thickness. Some fuses use different metals that melt slower than others, but they are metals that melt at a lower temperature than the wire connecting them. the thicker the material, the higher the amount of amps it takes to burn out/melt the metal https://auto.howstuffworks.com/wfc2.htm As for which way, fuses of that type are non directional As for amperage ratings, the fuse that's next to the exiting wire side should be rated for what your accessory needs in order to protect it. The fuse that is inserted at the blade side that goes into the fuse box should be no higher than what the original fuse box location was rated for. In any case, the lowest rated fuse is going to burn out first.... not that the second one will burn out, so the first is the only one, so there isn't a first or second......... know what i'm saiyan, man? hee hee |
remember when a fuse went in our car and we'd shape the tin foil from our pack of smokes and jam it in there. |
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https://www.civicx.com/forum/threads...use-box.36725/ https://i.imgur.com/RDhjmOc.jpg In other words, find out which side of the fuse block is the source side. I hate it when you have to put the tap in a position that is almost impossible to install because of this. multi tester is your friend. I always look for an empty slot in the fuse block. If you're like me and have shitload of accessories, I bypass the factory fuse box and use these. https://www.grainger.ca/en/product/p...CABEgL4EfD_BwE Beats having to find ground points each time you add an accessory. I use jumpers designed for the barrier block/strip. Clean and simple. I got mine from SMI Electronics ages ago. Not sure if they carry the stuff anymore. I don't even know if they're still open, for that matter. |
Oh man ... nightmare! Vehicles break down after southern Alberta gas station mixes up gas and diesel https://www.cbc.ca/news/canada/calga...esel-1.6123402 |
Lol Fuses should be replaced with the same rating larger fuse can result in failed component that its protecting, and a nightmare for the next guy trying to figure out what its protecting smaller fuse can result in nuisance trips, instant trips, and a nightmare for the next guy trying to figure out why its not working. It all comes down to what are you protecting, and how you want it protected https://markthomaselectricaldotcom1....categories.jpg |
That reminds me of when I got my RX7. Part of why I got it cheap is because none of the electrical, aside from what was needed to run the engine, worked. No lights, no sunroof, no mirrors, no headlight motors, etc. The fusebox covers with the diagrams are both missing so I look them up online. Sure enough one of the engine bay fuses is in the wrong spot, and the cabin fuse box was a gongshow. Some fuses were missing, some fuses were installed for features it didn't have (like a convertible top), a bunch of fuses were blown and none were the correct size. 5 minutes later and everything but the sunroof was working. |
nice pic donk i like those graphical analogies sorry been catching bits and pieces of this convo related to car wiring. i want to explain the risks of oversizing electrical protection in general. if you replace any breaker/fuse with one that is oversized from original design, you are essentially removing the protection by increasing the trip load - the rest of the system most likely was not designed for that. eg. if you have something rated at 15 amps, the wire gauge is rated for 15 amps. if you throw in a breaker / fuse rated at 30 amps in-lieu of a the original 15 amp one, then it can go well past the 15 amps it was designed for...assuming your wiring was oversized to handle 30amps you'll be ok, but most of the time it would not have been the case, so this can overheat your wiring and cause damage (heat/fire for example). i've seen this happen as a way to solve breaker trips by people not really understanding what they're doing. it's not the solution, it's actually a symptom of a problem that needs to be investigated further, the breaker tripping is doing it's job protecting the system. |
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--- https://i.imgur.com/RDhjmOc.jpeg I understand this one. https://www.civicx.com/forum/attachm...1s-jpg.151971/ Don't understand this one... with the "IN" and "OUT" Is this diagram basically saying the same thing as the one above? --- https://i.imgur.com/VAcOpJp.jpg Picture of my fuse box. It's messy buy has been stable like this for about 3 years now... I started to run out of room after installing a few things so I had to flip one of the fuse taps to make it fit. But just wondering if something is going to catch on fire some day if I did something wrong. I'm about to install a dashcam for my parents and started researching this topic again and just wanted to make sure I'm doing things properly. |
Unrelated to the fuse discussion other than some people might blow a fuse watching this (or most any other Chris Hedges videos). |
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https://i.imgur.com/R3uF6EL.png See how the power for the new circuit would have to go through both fuses? You don't want that to happen. It will still work, it's just more likely to cause issues with fuses blowing, etc. If you've added that many circuits to your car you should probably run a fused feed to a new fuse box inside the car for all your accessories, like one of these: https://i5.walmartimages.com/asr/46d...24e14746f.jpeg |
are you telling him to be careful to wire it in parallel and not in series? |
Yes |
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Positive is on the left side on both diagrams. Upper and lower left sides are joined. The right sides (the outputs) are independent. Top one with the pigtail is the accessory you want to add. If you delete the bottom fuse, your original accessory will no longer work, but the top one will still work. As long as there is a fuse inserted to complete the circuit. Think of DC (direct current) electricity as if it was water flowing through your house. Water enters from the left. The fuses are like taps. No fuse, the water stops flowing. If the bottom tap is turned off (no fuse or broken fuse), no water flows through your basement faucet. Water will still flow to the upstairs faucet. Take that fuse off and no water flows through your upstairs faucet. |
Over the years, I've encounter the World Financial Group, Amway, Enagic, all these MLM bullshit. One of my managers I've built a decent relationship with at a different department has started to poke at me in getting me to join World Wide Group. I went on google and it has 4.8 stars with 220x google reviews, which is damn good reviews (whether it's legit or people paid to write good reviews, I wouldn't know). So far he hasn't been on the aggressive approach to recruit me compared to the World Financial Group, Amway, Enagic, he's been introducing me to webinars and boardwalks trying to "interview" me if I'm a good candidate and if I am serious in making a change in my life to earn more money "passively". He doesn't want people that just join and jet 3 months later because they don't feel its right for them. At this point, I'm not for it or against it, pretty much in a neutral stance. With any business or work, a few make the big bucks and the rest are small potatoes fighting for the scrapes. They have these speakers that sell you the millionaire dollar dream on how they are retired in their early 30's yayayadada. So I literally straight up asked my manager, what are you making for transparency purposes and he's telling me he's making about 5 digits annually, which has allowed his wife to work part-time. So I'm guessing $10-20K conservatively speaking, which is a nice added additional to your regular job. With this kind of shit, I just feel it ain't no walk in the park and for $$$$$ to roll in, you gotta sell some shit to someone to generate money (even though they claim you ain't poking your family/friends/coworkers for sales). No sales = no money. Also there are monthly overhead costs like $300-350 cdn/month. So if I spend $3,000 - 4,000 a year, to generate $10,000 - $20,000, the ROI is good; however, I don't know if I can be committed in stuff like this where I am not interested in aside for the money. My manager was saying even if you make nothing/lose money, just write off your businesses expenses, so in reality you ain't losing anything. End of the day, it's still MLM even though approach doesn't come off as aggressively seeking you to join so they can make a quick buck off you. Has anyone been involved with this organization or know anyone? Should I just say I pass and stay the fuck away? |
FWIW, Amway is now mostly rebranded to WWG. Their pitch is exactly as you said it. Training, motivational, etc. World wide group. One of my closest friends makes over $1MM annually. It works, but it doesn't work for everyone. Sent from my SM-G781W using Tapatalk |
^ MLM is super old school ... digital content creator, tiktok, IG is the new Amway for any Jane or Joe to be their own boss and make 6 figures... or 7 if you've won the genetic lottery and look hot and can do a little gig/dance. |
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Jolly good! |
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