i turned my gpu fans down to 40% and now my comp is nearly silent, but every now and then i hear a high pitched whine, i think its coming from my psu :suspicious:

and my gpu makes weird clicking noises at 60%+ fan speeds, but at 100% its fine

stress tested the cpu with H60 cooler and fan at max speed
http://i.imgur.com/L7309.png

now I just have to wait to get switch 810 case + all the water cooling parts to see how much cooler it will get

I get this too..

But then I just slap the case a few times and it stops

is it a new build? if not, then it could be dust build up on the fans causing it to be unbalanced while spinning

for anyone building a system soon, I'd wait and acquire these
Noctua's noise-canceling PC fan gets tested, drops twenty decibels -- Engadget
looks pretty cool, and should probably be even quieter than the nh d14s

Those are over a year away, no point in waiting that long. They look promising at 2500rpm with what looks like a similar design to the nf-f12s, but in the end they're still a 120mm fan from the looks of it. They should do alright on rads, maybe on an air cooler, but for air I doubt that whatever you put it on can beat the nh-d14 just because of the size of the bloody thing.

had sometime to put my build into a new case. There is so much room! thanks to Skinny for the recommendation.

http://i.imgur.com/DGjNn.jpg
NZXT Switch 810 next to the Antec P182
http://i.imgur.com/cRw4J.jpg
Top view... thinking of putting a triple rad up there in the near future
http://i.imgur.com/ZCnKh.jpg
side view
http://i.imgur.com/Ge9n9.jpg
back side view... love the fan controller on the back
Don't like how there is not enough room on the back. haven't attempted to put the side panels back on yet

Looking good

Anyone on here have any problems with liquid cooling? I don't know if I should finally drop money on one, any problems such as leaks?

If not I'm going to pick up the phantek, i hear it knocked the d14 off the throne :fullofwin:

ncix finally carries it :)

Liquid is only worth it as a hobby. Those enclosed systems are good, but if you have the space I'd rather use a D14

I'll be receiving a Phantek by next week, I'll let you know how it goes. I'll be comparing it directly to a D14

@lilaznviper

dat case

i need some troubleshooting help

long story short my new card came in but i wanted to test it before i get my new system by putting it in my old system (just in case it's a dud..i could return it in 7 days)

I didn't get the beep/POST or video signal through DVI
i put in the old card...same problem
put in a spare brand new PSU..nadda
i've also tried resetting cmos/taken out the battery..ive made sure all the power connectors are on properly...only thing left for me to try is reseat the CPU heatsink and try the 2nd pcie slot...

any ideas? if i killed my mobo through static electricity i wouldve noticed it right?

Does anything smell burnt?

If static electricity would come to play, it would have to short some circuit when you turn the power on and you would most likely smell something burnt. That's my past experience at least.

If not, when resetting the cmos, did u disconnect the power, take out the battery and wait for a few minutes? it has to lose power completely for the cmos to reset to factory.

If you turn your computer on without anything except CPU and ram, does it post or at least gives you any signal? (it depends on the mobo)

And unplug everything (down to the memory) and reconnect again. I have had experience where the connector just wasn't plugged hard enough or the ram IIRC became loose somehow when I was swapping components.

in on results :) think im going to stay away from water cooling, apparently the d14 performs better than even the H80 which is on sale for 100 bucks.

thanks for the tips hehe
swapping the ram into different slots seemed to do the trick even though it originally loaded as cmos failed...its odd because the original configuration of my memory worked fine for years :suspicious:

now I have trouble seating the HSF to my C2D conroe properly with the stupid push-pins so I'm getting idle temps in the high 60s low 70's :okay:

Maybe take the whole thing off and apply a new layer of thermal paste in the same time?

yeah had to seat it without the fan on first because i couldnt access the push pins..i still dont think one of them are in fully locked position because the plastic is all warped now...but temps are good now

I didn't even bother with the push pins. I immediately bought an after market cooler that used backplate mounting.

anyone might know some reasons why my cpu is so hot?
its a 3570k oced to 4.32GHz 1.2V on a p8z68-v pro/gen3
i'm using a hyper 212+ with a stock fan pulling and a scythe 1900rpm pushing, and my temperatures at idle range from 32min - 57max, i can't even run prime 95, during the first 5 seconds it reaches 97 degrees and i stop it right away, the voltage isn't even high yet
i read around and people have WAY lower temperatures with higher clocks with the same heat sink

Check your heatsink contact patch, did you bolt it on properly with the backplate? What thermal compound are you using? And also double check your voltages, CPU-Z works for that.

Also, which scythe fan are you using?

My 2500k at 4.5 is only capping at 60-70 with a 120mm jyuni pwm and a hyper 212+, so something's definitely wrong with yours. My bets are on a bad contact with the heatsink though, if it's that bad.

Also, run Intel Burn Test for testing instead, it's overkill cause it exceeds the load that anything else would put on it but that's what we want.

using the stock thermal compound that came with the 212
i have the jyuni ultra high flow with 110cfm
and the highest voltage that it hits from what i saw is 1.34

i'll check the other things later

and 60-70 under load or idle?

Actually, I've heard Ivy Bridge chips run hotter than Sandy Bridge, try dropping the oc to 4.0 and see how it is. Otherwise try remounting the hs with MX-4 thermal paste. Read guides on mounting the hyper 212+, the base has an annoying feature to consider when applying paste.

Edit: the 2500k was at 60-70C running the burn test, it's back to stock now and doesn't break 50C. But then Ivy's made with a different process, I don't know how it reacts to overclocking on what is really a budget cooler, albeit a very good one. Yours is doing pretty much what mine did when I tried a 5.0 oc so it could be the hs can't transfer that much heat away from the CPU.

For Hyper 212+, apply the paste like so:

http://benchmarkreviews.com/images/a..._Two_Lines.jpg

Note how the cracks are filled in, and the main paste application are the 2 (or in the case of the 212+, there's 3 to make) lines. I think for the EVO the gaps are closed now, but see if you can fill them in. And like others are saying, make sure its tightly bolted down.


As for the second fan, remove it. There are tests that show the stock single Blademaster on the 212+ is best performing and best for your money (that means adding a second Blademaster isn't really worth it).

EDIT: how are you connecting the second fan, btw? If its getting too little voltage (from the mobo and not via a Y-splitter) it'll be extra turbulent in the HS.

Ivy Bridge apparently runs hotter because Intel switched from a solder to a thermal paste compared to the Sandy Bridge.

This is under the heatspreader btw, not heatsink to cpu contact