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Real answer though, does it hurt on the meaty part on the underside of the finger between the knuckle and the first finger knuckle? If that describes your pain it's a common injury amongst climbers. It's a popped tendon and it takes a long time to heal. You should tape it up if you want to continue lifting.
Treatment Tips for Finger Tendon Pulley Injuries
1. Immediately cease climbing and any other activity that requires forceful flexion of the injured finger. Consult a doctor if there is noticeable “bowstringing” on the flexor tendon.
2. Use ice and consume NSAID medications only if the injury produces palpable or visible swelling. Cease use of ice and NSAIDs as swelling begins to diminish—further daily use will slow healing!
3. As pain decreases—and only when all swelling is gone—begin light daily finger activity such as finger flexions, squeezing a rubber donut, mild stretching, and massage. This light exercise is important to ensure proper healing.
4. Use a heating pad for ten to fifteen minutes, three times a day to increase blood flow and accelerate healing. Smokers should consider breaking the habit, since smoking has been shown to slow healing of tendons and ligaments.
5. Use the therapy describe in #4 and #5 for at least two to four weeks before beginning a gradual return to climbing. Use prophylactic taping every time you climb, and spend the first week or two climbing relatively easy routes with big holds and good footholds.
6. Return to full-force climbing if easy climbing yields no pain. Continue taping and avoid tweaky holds for several months, since complete tendon healing can take 100 days or more.
Probably bad place to ask, but I will anways. On August Long weekend I tweaked my middle finger at Gyro beach in Kelowna, swinging down that rope swing with a chick on my back. Since then, my middle finger my been sore as fuck when I grip, even though nothing is broken, even deadlifting two plates, my grip goes out because of the middle finger.
Should I jump on straps for now, or stop lifting entirely for now?
Probably scar tissue from tendon damage... get it checked out by a chiro, or physio that does active release therapy... OR wait until it heals/scar tissue breaks down on its own which could be a while.... unless you dislocated it, and it never healed properly
There are no principles, there are only events. There is no good and bad, there are only circumstances. The superior espouses events and circumstances in order to guide them.
I have read the last 50 pages of this thread today (slow work day?) and am really amazed by some of the results you guys have achieved, very inspirational. This year I have been making a concerted effort to improve my personal health and fitness and have made some progress but haven't been able to make enough change to really achieve my goals. This year I have gotten back into downhill mountain biking and have been riding fairly long and intense full days. I also picked up a road bike and have been doing some decent rides early in the mornings before work, doing around a 20k loop 2x-3x a week.
I cut out alcohol for the first 8 months this year, I am drinking a bit now but very little, maybe once a week. I work hard to eat decently, virtually no fast food of any kind but still enjoy my junk food once in awhile. I have made some progress, I have lost over 1" on my waist and definitely toned up a bit, but I want to keep working on improving.
As the weather gets worse, I need to develop a gym routine to keep me going through the winter and hopefully achieve some of my goals of continuing to improve my fitness and appearance. I have a decently equipped gym in my apartment with a good host of dumbbells up to 75lbs and several machines that I couldn't list every possible exercise with but I assume can be made to do almost anything that I would want. The gym doesn't have any barbells or a chinup bar.
Does anybody have any recommended workout programs that I should consider following? I wake up early, 6am, and would like to get my workout done before work - I can comfortably budget around 60 minutes and think realistically I can do it 3 days a week (MWF). As you guys can imagine, there is an absolute insane number of programs and what not out there and I just don't really know which one would make the most sense for me.
Thanks very much for any advice or help,
Mark
__________________ I'm old now - boring street cars and sweet race cars.
i know you only want 3 days a week but you could steal some info from this guy, i have done a ton of diff programs in the past and this is probably my fave by far. maybe you could try and take a little bit and make your own up. Allot of it focuses on legs and this program really brought my legs up big time, i know you probably do not want the crazy body builder program but just take a look
Legs today, did squats 225 x 5, felt easy, pushed out 245x 5 for the next set, going to try 275 next week. I started to train legs about 2 months ago, and been training the rest since April.
Not all crossfit clubs are like that. The one at Sports Central, I've seen them and the coach hasn't let his members do any stupid shit that I've seen.
It's like how there are good PT's and crap PTs, don't be putting them all in the same basket.
i know you only want 3 days a week but you could steal some info from this guy, i have done a ton of diff programs in the past and this is probably my fave by far. maybe you could try and take a little bit and make your own up. Allot of it focuses on legs and this program really brought my legs up big time, i know you probably do not want the crazy body builder program but just take a look
There are no principles, there are only events. There is no good and bad, there are only circumstances. The superior espouses events and circumstances in order to guide them.
BinsentoW - You need to thrust your hips out more when you lock out. Needs to be more explosive. Try pausing a second when you do lock out. I personally wouldn't count it as a lock out, but good effort.
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even halo 
