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My girlfriends dad and I went to his old engineering shop and fired up the tig welder after 15 years. The first one wasn't pretty, the second turned out much better. Apparently he was literally the best in his day(he's 74 now) and was even asked to teach at Bcit for a while way back when. Oh how I'd love to get a shop, a welder and start picking his brain, not to mention have a teacher whenever required haha. Anyhow, a little rusty still But not bad for a second go.
We ended up welding a couple bungs in he oil pan for future turbo oil return and oil temp sensor.
My motor was in need of a head gasket job BADLY. At it's worst, I was topping up with water between trips and that was as much as several times a day. A bit of background on the motor: it's a JDM ZC non-VTEC which makes it the JDM equivalent of a USDM D16A6.
So with the help of e.lo, we began what we thought would be a one day job
Things began simply enough; valve cover, fuel rail, etc removed.
This was the cheapo gasket kit as well as a timing belt, water pump and tensioner.
Intake and Exhaust manifolds were removed and the head came off. Here's what fucked us up though. A head stud snapped off as we were removing it with a chunk remaining in the block.
Here's what we found! About an inch of water in cylinder #4 e.lo was surprised I didn't hydrolock this motor. I had been driving like this for 2-3 weeks haha.
With the block kind of fucked, e.lo decided he'd get started on cleaning up the head. I'll post this as a side to side comparison so you can see the amount of work done.
We clearly needed some help so luckily e.lo's dad was willing to save us and so the drilling began..
Here's the little shit that caused us a lot of man hours and delays.
Block and pistons were cleaned up. New headgasket went on.
So with everything cleaned up, we slapped the head on thinking it would be fine. WRONG. The fucked up hole would no longer hold torque. Again, e.lo's dad bailed us out by using a helicoil. With that in place, we were able to get the stud to hold torque.
Intake manifold was greasy as shit. It was cleaned up and reattached with a new gasket of course. The EF will get an oil catch can in the future but that sure as shit won't happen before the EK gets one
Voila! Job complete. It only took us about 7 days longer than expected lol.
$30 DIY rust repair. Only washed/waxed/polished that section of the car at the time (damn water restrictions!) so that's why the paint looks a little off. But for my beater I'm happy with the result!
Have a guide for that? My car has the same rust problem.
__________________ 1991 Toyota Celica GTFour RC // 2007 Toyota Rav4 V6 // 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee
1992 Toyota Celica GT-S ["sold"] \\ 2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee CRD [sold] \\ 2000 Jeep Cherokee [sold] \\ 1997 Honda Prelude [sold] \\ 1992 Jeep YJ [sold/crashed] \\ 1987 Mazda RX-7 [sold] \\ 1987 Toyota Celica GT-S [crushed]
Quote:
Originally Posted by maksimizer
half those dudes are hotter than ,my GF.
Quote:
Originally Posted by RevYouUp
reading this thread is like waiting for goku to charge up a spirit bomb in dragon ball z
Quote:
Originally Posted by Good_KarMa
OH thank god. I thought u had sex with my wife. :cry:
You buy one of these for $10 Porter Cable | 1/4 inch Air Compressor Filter | Home Depot Canada, get barbed fittings in whatever size you need for the inlet and outlet, and teflon tape if the fittings don't come with dope already on them. Then just remove the brown filter element inside and pack it with some steel wool or in my case a cut up liquid filter for a shop vac, put it back together and pop it in the car, making sure you have the air flowing in the right direction (follow the arrow) and you're done.
__________________ 1991 Toyota Celica GTFour RC // 2007 Toyota Rav4 V6 // 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee
1992 Toyota Celica GT-S ["sold"] \\ 2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee CRD [sold] \\ 2000 Jeep Cherokee [sold] \\ 1997 Honda Prelude [sold] \\ 1992 Jeep YJ [sold/crashed] \\ 1987 Mazda RX-7 [sold] \\ 1987 Toyota Celica GT-S [crushed]
Quote:
Originally Posted by maksimizer
half those dudes are hotter than ,my GF.
Quote:
Originally Posted by RevYouUp
reading this thread is like waiting for goku to charge up a spirit bomb in dragon ball z
Quote:
Originally Posted by Good_KarMa
OH thank god. I thought u had sex with my wife. :cry:
Not to the tee, mind you... as that would have cost me a lot more than what I paid which ran me about $30 per side (will probably tackle that this week). My "actual" steps were:
Spoiler!
- Sanded off paint and loose rust with dremel + sanding bit until about 1cm of bare metal was visible on all sides
- Naval jelly the leftover
- POR15/DOM16/Tremclad, what have you over the remainder. Should be very little rust left at this point
- Epoxy putty over the hole/gap/what have you
- Sand sand sand (320 grit then 1000 grit)
- Body filler
- Sand sand sand (320 grit)
- Fill inevitable pinholes with more body filler
- Sand sand sand with 320grit and then 1000 grit until filler is level with rest of metal and smooth
- Primer
- Sand with 1000 grit
- 2nd coat primer
- Sand with 1000 grit
- Body color paint
- Sand with 1000 grit
- Body color paint
- Sand with 2000 grit
- Clean + polish (I used leftover "Quixx" scratch remover for this and a lint-free rag, turned out great)
- Wax
It sounds like a long process but it took me about an entire afternoon/evening (12pm-8pm) to do, 2 hours of which was actual work and the other 6 waiting for things to dry/cure...
plasti dipped interior trim. did a fast crappy job(didnt even bother sanding away the original coat) so i will re-do it sometime in the future but im ok with it for now.
My motor was in need of a head gasket job BADLY. At it's worst, I was topping up with water between trips and that was as much as several times a day. A bit of background on the motor: it's a JDM ZC non-VTEC which makes it the JDM equivalent of a USDM D16A6.
So with the help of e.lo, we began what we thought would be a one day job
Things began simply enough; valve cover, fuel rail, etc removed.
This was the cheapo gasket kit as well as a timing belt, water pump and tensioner.
Intake and Exhaust manifolds were removed and the head came off. Here's what fucked us up though. A head stud snapped off as we were removing it with a chunk remaining in the block.
Here's what we found! About an inch of water in cylinder #4 e.lo was surprised I didn't hydrolock this motor. I had been driving like this for 2-3 weeks haha.
With the block kind of fucked, e.lo decided he'd get started on cleaning up the head. I'll post this as a side to side comparison so you can see the amount of work done.
We clearly needed some help so luckily e.lo's dad was willing to save us and so the drilling began..
Here's the little shit that caused us a lot of man hours and delays.
Block and pistons were cleaned up. New headgasket went on.
So with everything cleaned up, we slapped the head on thinking it would be fine. WRONG. The fucked up hole would no longer hold torque. Again, e.lo's dad bailed us out by using a helicoil. With that in place, we were able to get the stud to hold torque.
Intake manifold was greasy as shit. It was cleaned up and reattached with a new gasket of course. The EF will get an oil catch can in the future but that sure as shit won't happen before the EK gets one
Voila! Job complete. It only took us about 7 days longer than expected lol.
Head gasket job on the D series.... NEVER AGAIN.
So close to failing you... because fuck that engine haha
Took my car in for some de-stancing. Times are tough, can't afford to go through tires every 15,000kms also was sick of how terribly the car handled with -5.5 degrees of rear camber, with rear of the car essentially riding the mushy sidewalls of the tires. Now the car handles like a taller, heavier EP3 on coilovers, totally didn't know the Element could handle so well with just some coils and other suspension upgrades, although it sort of makes sense as it uses the exact same suspension setup (sharing some components) with the DC5 need to get the rear ride height figured out though, as the rear ride height with proper functional camber is a fist gap
__________________ [13-03, 11:25] MG1 when you hit the brakes, it shoots cum at pedestrian - bukkake
[12-03, 19:06] meme405 That e30 is so mexiflushed I thought we were in albuquerque
[12-03, 23:03] rb when i see a modded element. I have nothing but respect. either the parents kicked him out or the guy is killing hookers in the back
You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our free community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today!
The banners on the left side and below do not show for registered users!
e.lo was surprised I didn't hydrolock this motor. I had been driving like this for 2-3 weeks haha.
also was sick of how terribly the car handled with -5.5 degrees of rear camber, with rear of the car essentially riding the mushy sidewalls of the tires. Now the car handles like a taller, heavier EP3 on coilovers, totally didn't know the Element could handle so well with just some coils and other suspension upgrades, although it sort of makes sense as it uses the exact same suspension setup (sharing some components) with the DC5 
need to get the rear ride height figured out though, as the rear ride height with proper functional camber is a fist gap 
