Are you adding the harness and bar as well?

Nope, just the seats.

^ Every time I see one of your posts I can't help but picture Harvey Specter sitting in a R8!

I drove my car today and the driveshaft tried to run away. Seriously, it unbolted itself and was just hanging and banging around on the exhaust.

I broke my car today.

http://i933.photobucket.com/albums/a...sc9w9jobr.jpeg

Whoa, good thing you made it home safely.

That awkward moment when your car is lowered so much that your already-shorter Skunk2 rear lower control arms are still not short enough that toe can be zero'd out without putting in -4 degrees of camber.

:facepalm:

I should invest in an alignment rack.

Deutsch connectors showed up in the mail so I turned my basic alligator clip battery tender into one that I can plug directly into a harness I made for my bike, much easier than having to rip the plastics off if I think I won't be riding for a while. Since I had an extra female plug lying around the clips can still be used for other batteries as well.

Then I decided to tackle the burned out gear lever bulbs in the Jeep and Matrix. In the Jeep it was a quick job, the Matrix was hell. While I was at it the Matrix got new LED license plate bulbs as well, no pics yet since it's still bright out.

added LED DRLs and well, yah...they're definitely NOT as bright as stock...however, there are NO error messages on the dash.

Next step is to indeed add resistors so these are firing at full power rather than reduced DRL power.

http://i.imgur.com/lC2uqg1.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/lkQJY49.jpg

daytime or in bright sunlight at this reduced power you cant see jack.
and of course, you lose the high beam capability.

similar thing happened to me a while back, my RR caliper mounting bolts quite literally disappeared after being torqued down my last pad change... was held on by the clamp force and kept bouncing off my dust shield

Won't that be a tad inconvenient? Or do you only drive it in town?

City driving only. No dark mountainous roads but the HIDs do a good job regardless.

Bought a used Innovate LC-1 on craigslist. Installed it and i'm getting error codes (E2 and E9 to be specific). After researching, this could be anything from bad grounds (I tried running grounds and power directly to the battery), bad sensor, or a bummed unit.

Anyone have a working bosch wideband sensor hanging around I could test to start eliminating issues? I'd hate to buy a $100 sensor to find out it's the wideband unit itself.

Also going to try reloading the firmware into the unit to see if it makes a difference.

If you're getting E9 then your supply voltage is too low. Figure out that first. Once you can get it running without E9 and you're still getting E2 then the sensor is most likely toast.

I had a LC-1 before. Sensors always seem to "die" too quickly with it. If I were you I would sell it and get something with the new LSU 4.9 sensor like the new PLX wideband.

Cheapest place for replacement bosch sensor OxygenSensor.Net home page

Good luck!

If you don't want to order online Autozone in the US has them for around the same price, way way cheaper than Canadian stores. I actually have a brand new sensor waiting to attach to the same wideband but I'm in Kelowna.

Started the "unconversion"

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d1...E2A5797E03.jpg

Thanks for the reply! The E9 is really throwing me for a loop. Great connections, short sit lengths (when I connected directly to the battery). But the E9 only shows up a small percentage of time when the car is running (other time it's always E2). I only get E2, with the car off and the car running at ~12.3 volts(never E9).

Need to get a USB to serial adaptor and try reloading the firmware as it all doesn't really make a whole lot of sense.

EDIT: Updated the firmware. Still an E2 message. When you connect to the computer, it says heater circuit open. Looks like you can test the heater circuit of the O2 sensor. I'll give that a go.

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d1...E2A5797E03.jpg

Unconversion...into what? :toot:
What year is that NSX? Is that entire body kit coming off? Looks like a lot of work!

Polished the headlights with toothpaste. It's not a major difference but it's a lot clearer than before.

My headlights smell minty fresh :lol

Finally wash n oil the air filter

Probably back to popup headlights since it's a 97. Dunno why fenders are off though because they're the same.

Swapped out the burned out bulbs in my bike for LED's, they look really washed out in the photo for some reason but aren't in person. For some reason the turn signal indicator stopped working so I'll have to dig into that.

https://scontent-sea1-1.xx.fbcdn.net...26480035_o.jpg

Replaced the door lock actuator on the TSX. Waiting for the 3 others to fail now. ha

Grabbed a set of GP thunder angel eye bulbs from work and installed them
https://scontent-sea1-1.xx.fbcdn.net...62344487_o.jpg

Pre lci coupe problems, they're not very bright :/ better than yellow though, going to look into some cree leds later on
https://scontent-sea1-1.xx.fbcdn.net...65696437_o.jpg

Also dipped the window trims
https://scontent-sea1-1.xx.fbcdn.net...56598154_o.jpg

https://scontent-sea1-1.xx.fbcdn.net...82023560_o.jpg


Debadged the rear while chilling at byrne lol, cleaned out the gunk when I got home afterwards
https://scontent-sea1-1.xx.fbcdn.net...33538145_o.jpg

Went to swap seats into my car and it was all murdered out on some knock off TE37... I don't mind them actually lol

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d1...2C944F3D81.jpg

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d1...319DB459AE.jpg

Got my OEM seats in the mail, man Acura shade of Tan is just nasty as fuck. Pics don't do it justice lol looks green and nasty... will have to really consider what I want to do with the interior hahaha Srs tho, OEM NSX seats are comfy as fuck.

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d1...46B534B433.jpg

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d1...EA00DD1B04.jpg

Jason what is the end game? Close to stock for collector status?