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Pulled the running boards off my Cherokee in prep for the lift install because the person who designed the boards was a complete idiot (12 bolts per board, 6 per spring. Derp.). Luckily whoever installed them at the dealership was a smart person and they coated all the self tapping bolts with silicone or something so none of them were rusted up.
__________________ 1991 Toyota Celica GTFour RC // 2007 Toyota Rav4 V6 // 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee
1992 Toyota Celica GT-S ["sold"] \\ 2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee CRD [sold] \\ 2000 Jeep Cherokee [sold] \\ 1997 Honda Prelude [sold] \\ 1992 Jeep YJ [sold/crashed] \\ 1987 Mazda RX-7 [sold] \\ 1987 Toyota Celica GT-S [crushed]
Quote:
Originally Posted by maksimizer
half those dudes are hotter than ,my GF.
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Originally Posted by RevYouUp
reading this thread is like waiting for goku to charge up a spirit bomb in dragon ball z
Quote:
Originally Posted by Good_KarMa
OH thank god. I thought u had sex with my wife. :cry:
Put the head on the block... With a head gasket in-between. Slung the chain around.... Then had to run to work. Took this picture to show to my SO (Because I know she's just so interested.. haha) and sunlight made an epic picture. haha
So Westopher, I must admit that for as long as you've owned your car I haven't really understood everyone's affection for the colour...until now. Looks amazing in the sunlight!
Willing to sell a family member for a few minutes on RS
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: North vancouver
Posts: 12,628
Thanked 32,347 Times in 7,533 Posts
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Its certainly not a colour for everyone. I'd understand people thinking its a purple z24 cavalier to be honest, but I've always liked a lot of colour, in just about everything. Its just different from the blacks, whites and silvers that 99.9% of the cars on the road are. I like to stand out a bit. Probably due to some deep rooted insecurity that comes from being an average looking, average height, average weight, average intelligence white guy haha.
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98 technoviolet M3/2/5
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Originally Posted by boostfever
Westopher is correct.
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Originally Posted by fsy82
seems like you got a dick up your ass well..get that checked
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Originally Posted by punkwax
Well.. I’d hate to be the first to say it, but Westopher is correct.
New pads and rotors! Centric premium high carbon rotors with Posi-quiet pads! I love the aesthetics of the rotors as they have black painted hats and fins to fight rust and corrosion!
Also, i wiped the new rotors with brake clean (degreaser will do as well). The reason for this is to remove the thin layer of oil that manufacturers apply to the rotors to prevent rusting. The oil and pads do not go well together!
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2006 Acura TSX - Carbon Grey Pearl 6MT
"The value of life can be measured by how many times the soul has been deeply stirred"- Soichiro Honda
This wouldn't have been possible without the help of sleepywheel! Out of the kindness of his heart, he came and dug me out of a bad situation. He even refused to take my money Nonetheless, I'm grateful he took the time and effort to help a fellow RS member in need. Thank you sleepywheel! (reference: http://www.revscene.net/forums/69567...ml#post8742473)
New pads and rotors! Centric premium high carbon rotors with Posi-quiet pads! I love the aesthetics of the rotors as they have black painted hats and fins to fight rust and corrosion!
Some removable threadlocker to prevent bolts that hold the caliper onto the knuckle from coming out
Dirty guide pins all cleaned up
All lubed up with silicone grease (important since petroleum based greases will degrade the boots that protect the guide pins
Anti-seize applied to hubs before mounting rotor. Went a little overboard
Looking tight
Rotors and pads combo has good bite, perfect for daily driving. Makes absolutely no noise. As my buddy Loong suggested, make sure you bed your brakes!
Also, i wiped the new rotors with brake clean (degreaser will do as well). The reason for this is to remove the thin layer of oil that manufacturers apply to the rotors to prevent rusting. The oil and pads do not go well together!
Fixed
__________________ 1991 Toyota Celica GTFour RC // 2007 Toyota Rav4 V6 // 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee
1992 Toyota Celica GT-S ["sold"] \\ 2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee CRD [sold] \\ 2000 Jeep Cherokee [sold] \\ 1997 Honda Prelude [sold] \\ 1992 Jeep YJ [sold/crashed] \\ 1987 Mazda RX-7 [sold] \\ 1987 Toyota Celica GT-S [crushed]
Quote:
Originally Posted by maksimizer
half those dudes are hotter than ,my GF.
Quote:
Originally Posted by RevYouUp
reading this thread is like waiting for goku to charge up a spirit bomb in dragon ball z
Quote:
Originally Posted by Good_KarMa
OH thank god. I thought u had sex with my wife. :cry:
What's a good silicon grease for the slider pins? I bought that Permatex synthetic brake lube stuff at Cdn Tire, it said it was safe for all brake parts, but when I did the slider pins, that rubber bushing started to swell.
Did some stuff while the sun decided to stay for a week long (It just feels better to work while its sunny out!)
Added some splitters
Spoiler!
The side splitter was a key part for me to flow the rear flare and the 1m fender together
I had to create a piece for that
Im no carpenter so i made due with what i got
I used the drawer as the base to hold the piece.lol!
Helped with adding a camber adjustment for the rear on an e30
Spoiler!
The rear subframe needed to be dropped
Soooo much easier and less beer drinking with a dang hoist!
Level up with exp points with the e30 so when i see those barn-find on an e30 m3 ill be ready
Pretending to be a bodyman. This one took me 4 days!
Spoiler!
As you can see the flare doesnt match with the sideskirts line its because the first car/mold use a different sideskirts
Bodyshops told me because its custom it can range from 500$-1000$ to mod one plus they need the car for measurement! thats not possible since i still got lots of things to do so im pretty much SOL
Decided fuck it and tried it myself.lol
The first 2 days i was just making a mess and covered the whole garage w/ bondo dust!
Its a messy and dusty as they come
But by the 3rd day i got the hang of it
All i can say about this exp is that i cant be a bodyman.lol!
Needs alot of patience, waiting and dusty AF!
Last major thing to be done (hacking the fender the point of no return!)
If your a "stock" aficionado this content is not for you .lol
Spoiler!
I had a good long 10 minutes of just staring at it and thinking if i should go for it.
Yellled out yolo! and ...
First tried welding with just flux core and that failed miserably its too messy with out gas assist (im sure a pro or with more experience can make due with flux core and be able to weld with sheet metal)
I cant my welding level exp is pretty much baby status.lol!
I need a MIG w/gas and also a extra support to push the inner fender towards the outer fender (a fender roller)
Dirty dealership I got this thing from said they did an oil change, I find a very Japanese oil filter under the car clearly installed by some Japanese dude in Japan. Pull the plug and some dark roast dinosaur oil comes gushing out...
I'm glad I know how to do this shit myself..
Last edited by Yodamaster; 04-03-2016 at 10:41 PM.
What's a good silicon grease for the slider pins? I bought that Permatex synthetic brake lube stuff at Cdn Tire, it said it was safe for all brake parts, but when I did the slider pins, that rubber bushing started to swell.
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Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Squamish
Posts: 925
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It's been a busy two weeks...
Dropped the motor in the beetle, trying to remember what the internal issue was that had me pull it in the fall. Can't remember, didn't do the work, why not run it and see!?! Took a 3000km road trip in it, and remembered pretty quickly. Right, piston rings. I guess after 95,000km they were ready for replacement. Considering beetle motors don't usually run to 60,000km...I think I'm doing pretty good.
Got back from road trip at last Friday at 8pm, had the motor on the stand by 11pm. Stripped it, rebuilt it Saturday, and then discovered it wouldn't turn over. New pistons were 60 thousands of an inch taller than the old pistons. Doh! Stripped it again Sunday morning, and drove to Tsawwassen. There an engine building friend of mine honed the old cylinders, re-ringed the old Pistons and confirmed they were mint otherwise. Reassembled the motor, and dropped it back into the car. The second time around I didn't rush it and instead took 3 days for reassembly and rebuilt the carbs, swapped in a new alternator and essentially checked and confirmed everything was mint for a season of motoring.
Cummins-swap dually project got a big work weekend. Brakes are done, power steering is done, drivetrain is done, intercooler and piping mounted and the front end is all together. Gotta do fluids in everything, source a rad fan, mount the rad, and then do all the electrical wiring. The motor is super simply, requires a single wire. It's putting all the Chevy wiring back in for lights and accessories, while removing any engine related bits, which is going to take time.
It ain't pretty...but once you pop the hood, or look underneath, it's pretty rad...
lucky you. my ford is under the same recall, but ETA for parts is "indefinite". basically i got a letter saying try not to hit anything until parts finally do arrive (maybe)...
__________________ "The guy in the CR-V meanwhile, he'll give you a haughty glare. He's responsibly trying to lessen his impact, but there you go lumbering past him with your loud V8, flouting the new reality. You may as well go do some donuts in a strawberry patch and slalom through a litter of kittens." Dan Frio, Automotive Editor, Edmunds
when i saw that i started to think if you can find a front fender and a doorskin, you can hang it up on a wall somewhere like art
__________________ "The guy in the CR-V meanwhile, he'll give you a haughty glare. He's responsibly trying to lessen his impact, but there you go lumbering past him with your loud V8, flouting the new reality. You may as well go do some donuts in a strawberry patch and slalom through a litter of kittens." Dan Frio, Automotive Editor, Edmunds