Next time, use some spare heater hose to install the spark plug, instead of the spark plug socket. Slide the heater hose onto the spark plug, and use that to hand spin it into the spark plug hole.


Lol, welcome to working on your own cars!

Spray the stuck plug with penetrating oil, let it sit overnight, and try again. Repeat as necessary until the plug loosens up. When you install the new plugs, coat the threads with anti-seize compound.

For the broken bolt, you're going to need someone with some more experience I suspect. It will need to be drilled and tapped.

As for the dropped socket and extension...you will soon learn that it is ALWAYS the 10mm that you lose.

You removed all the ignition coils at once, didn't you? Whenever you work on a car for the first time, and even after you're well experienced, always do one complete assembly, and then the next. It allows you to dig into the next one to find what you've forgotten. Twenty years I've been working on cars, and I still do one side of a car for drum brakes, before starting on the other side...Lets me see how the springs "should be".

For your grounding wire, it should most likely go on top of the coil. So:

Bolt
Ground Strap
Coil
Head

-Dave

Dave gives good advice. If your going to continue working on your cars, a magnetic wand is super handy as you will continue to drop shit everywhere. Little mirrors on a stick are awesome too.

As for the ground strap, it shouldn't really matter as long as all the pieces are conductive and there isn't corrosion. Another tip in putting the puzzle back together is you may find wesr marks on the individual pieces. Like the ground strap has a bigger terminal then the bolt head. If the top of the coil has wesr marks on the top which are bigger then the bolt head then the ground strap was probably on top. Check both sides.

Technology is great these days. Do as Dave says and take one thing apart at a time. If not possible take a biz zillion photos label everything. Once you get into deep dirty projects that never end you will be grateful for the huge amount of time it takes to label things properly.

Experimented with ghetto tire shine / Walmart brand "TUFF STUFF" lol. not bad... looked good for a few days until the damn rain hit. (2-pack $11.97)

https://i.imgur.com/Kkfxm9W.jpg

My instinct would be that the ground strap goes on top, unless there's an indent in the cover or the coil, the coil would sit lopsided if it had the ground under one side and didn't have a washer or something on the other.

I'm tempted to fail you, but only because I HATE the "wet-look"...

:P

bic baws - don't set the gap on Iridium sparks plugs, they come pre-gapped and trying to set the gap will mess it up or break the tip.

Dave always gives great advice, and I'm like him too. Been wrenching for years, but I'll always work on one thing at a time. He gave a great example with the brakes. Do one side first and then if something isn't working or doesn't line up or whatever, you can always reference the other side to see what's up.

Another valuable tool for us guys who wrench a lot is to use manufactures parts websites. I'm a Honda guy, so I use Majestic Honda, but they're pretty much all the same. You can go online and see a broken down view of how things go together. It doesn't always show everything, but usually give you a really good idea of how parts go together.

Here's an example pic from majestic honda

^ I've been screwed by those diagrams before. Trying to put the rear end of my Celica back together going off of the diagram and nothing was lining up. I kept swapping suspension arms around and trying all sorts of things to no avail. Finally I hopped on the forums and asked wtf I was doing wrong. It turned out the diagram showed the calipers on the wrong side (front instead of rear) and so I was trying to put the hubs on the wrong sides of the car. Once I found that out I tried putting them on the correct sides and things went together much better.

Tl;dr - parts diagrams are helpful but your own pictures are better.

I'm free tomorrow. If you're still stuck I can swing by. PM me?

Got new snow tires mounted on stock rims. Nokian Nordman 7 Studless.

https://i.imgur.com/w14ExVq.jpg

I'm a noob at wrenching, but not at detailing. Unless you were actually going for the wet look, give these a shot: http://everythingcarcare.com/?product=tire-dressing

Gives it a nice deep shine, nothing too glossy, but definitely eliminates the old tire look

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Thanks for the great advice, Dave! People like you make this forum great! Yep I removed everything at once, and left it for about a week.. so after finishing PS this weekend, I gotta figure out how to put the car back together. However, I did get a Bentley repair manual.

So I sprayed the sparkplug with PB blaster, then I realized the issue. Last week, I lost the rubber grommet in the socket. Just now, I found it. I realize why it didn't grip, it's cause the grommet was still on the spark plug LOL.

Also here's a picture of my stupidity and broken bolt. Yikes.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...2bbe1ed104.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...e588340b02.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...5f74eaacd7.jpg

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Lol, I think we've all done that at some point.

For that broken bolt, you're lucky that you broke it off with something to grab. I'll bet with a little bit of heat it will twist right out. Sometimes, after breaking the head off, the tension in the threads is released and they spin right out without heat.

-Dave

You lucked out for sure. This was the exhaust stud on my 911...

Had to drill it out, upside down under the car, whilst making sure I was perfectly centred and not nick the cylinder head lest I want to drop the engine and replace.

I got very lucky indeed, thank god. Bolt came out with several different pliers as it was a hard area to use pliers in. I ended up just threading it out by hand. Also got spark plug 2 out by pushing out the new rubber in the socket and using the rubber-less socket to get it. But I couldn't figure out how to put a new one back in without the rubber, otherwise it'd just slide off. I ended up just putting the new rubber back in, as I didn't have the correct size of heater hose, and used the ignition coil to suction the rubber out.

I'm glad this nightmare is over. I'm very appreciative of all the advice that Dave and others has given me, as well as Skunkworkz for offering to give me a hand.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...01f31fee6a.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...d68968a549.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...50568a7536.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...2dd8604c1a.jpg

Now onto the next fix, power steering.

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Spent the last few days driving to work and back not being able to see a damn thing out the back because rainwater would just build up and not bead. I took a little time this morning doing the full Rain-X treatment to get some visibility back, and to keep the inside glass from fogging so easily.

https://scontent-sea1-1.xx.fbcdn.net...26&oe=5A7D87C7

ah.

That Dare sticker. :troll: :ifyouknow:



I see you are also a man of culture.

Got together with a couple of friends and tried to get power steering hose off. It's not happening. Got the winters put on and new lugs tho, but realized that one of winters has a slash in the side wall :/ https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...4239f9c518.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...40807e97de.jpgAttachment 29420

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That smile was to be protected! FeelsBadMan

Let me know how the antifog works? Been contemplating it for the hatch, just not sure if it's worth the purchase.

^^ Doesn't work in the beetles...and there is no worse vehicle on the road for fogging than a classic Beetle.

I can remember fighting my sister to sit in the front seat when we were kids, because the passenger gets to scrape the ice off the INSIDE of the windshield as you drive!

Also would not generously apply it. I've had streaking issues with that anti fog. I'm actually starting to move away from rain-x products, as there's a lot more glare. There's a 303 product that I use for my windshield, if I can find the name, I'll update.

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i use this method back in the day for my car cause it didnt have ac and would fog up during the colder months

Isn't the fogging because of moisture trapped inside the cabin of the car?
I've put these things in my dad's car and this thing is filled with water after several months, so it seems to work well. only costs $1.25
Hard part is keeping it in an upright position while driving

https://www.dollartree.com/assets/pr...rge/160017.jpg

Best anti fog is finding all the leaks in the cabin. Then cabin air on fresh vs recirculate.

Best antifog is clean windows, moisture trap and AC