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Vancouver Auto Chat 2016 VAC Community Head Moderator: Raid3n

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Old 03-28-2018, 08:18 AM   #7426
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glad you didn't die though
as neat as old school Hondas are, they probably crumple like a beer can
on to better things!
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Old 03-28-2018, 09:05 AM   #7427
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$20 LED low beam and high beam, LED foglights will be coming soon





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Old 03-28-2018, 09:38 AM   #7428
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3M created a magic double-sided tape called "VHB" (Very High Bond). It's what holds trailers, RV's and ambulances together these days. It's also holding my door panels on.
Love this stuff. Used it on my TSX's windshield molding after it came off and the dealer refused to fix it despite there being an existing recall in the USA.

They quoted me $250 to replace the whole thing. Managed to use VHB to tape the metal clips together. Been holding for the past 3 years now!



*Pic is not my car. Just an example lifted from another forum
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Old 03-28-2018, 10:07 AM   #7429
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Last week, I removed these parts as part of my warm weather refresher.


- Bad Driver Side Axle that caused vibration on acceleration (Replacement part was OK for a couple of days, but developed the same issue. That "new" part was replaced the following Sunday)

- Bad Upper Balljoint (This Skunk2 piece pretty much gets replaced yearly. Was only adjustable upper control arm available at the time of purchase)

- 45 degree elbow (my winter intake) now replaced with the AEM Cold Air Intake I use for summer.

Then, something bad happened on Sunday night (same day I replaced the bad new axle).


It doesn't look that bad but, the rear quarter panel dented in about 6 inches deep (whole back tire tread was exposed). The door was jammed shut, I had to crawl out the passenger side.

Bye, Felicia
Is this the aftermath of the "look both ways" video you posted?

Damn that sucks... Hopefully you find something else you like soon.
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Old 03-28-2018, 11:20 AM   #7430
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Is this the aftermath of the "look both ways" video you posted?

Damn that sucks... Hopefully you find something else you like soon.
Yeah, that's the aftermath of the video I posted in the bad drivers thread. I got hit, did a 180 back into a telephone pole.

It feels like a broke up with a girlfriend... going back through photos and remembering the feels. I spent almost six years with her... *sigh*
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Old 03-28-2018, 07:11 PM   #7431
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Yeah, that's the aftermath of the video I posted in the bad drivers thread. I got hit, did a 180 back into a telephone pole.

It feels like a broke up with a girlfriend... going back through photos and remembering the feels. I spent almost six years with her... *sigh*
100% know the feels. I had just finished completing my vision for my car which I was working on for 4 years, literally the next day after BBK was installed and paint was restored, it gets totaled.

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Old 03-29-2018, 09:41 AM   #7432
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Storage in the Rally Bug is a definite problem. There's obviously no back seat, and there is less trunk room than a regular Super Beetle. For the most part, on road trips, I've figured it out...but it's surprising how handy the door panel pockets have become. Even just little things like house keys, wallet, gas receipts, etc. all need a spot. On the co-driver side they've got cell phones, pens, navigator crap I don't really pay attention to. We're gonna need some door pockets.


Cut some ABS to fit inside the door pockets and keep 'em stiff, as well as some strips to support them on the backside of the door panel. The rivets will hold them in, big flange on the one side, two washers on the other to keep them from pulling through the door panel.


Three rivets across the top, one in each lower corner (which was fun to install).



Yup, that will work nicely.


With the door panels done, I tore out the co-driver seat, drained the rear brake circuit and started working on replacing the hand-brake master cylinder.


The old cylinder was 5/8 diameter, and is actually a Honda clutch master cylinder. It was easy to obtain and has metric fittings, so I had all the fittings to swap it over to AN fittings. The new master, as you can see, is quite a bit larger. I had to source the 3/4" master from Willwood, and work out the fittings to get the inlet and outlet down to the -3AN sizing that I'm using. Fitting this bigger cylinder under the shifter, above the valve for the Accusump and without hitting the driver's seat is going to be a challenge and a half...


I had to cut off and grind down the casting corner at the back of the master, taking about 3/8" of material off, but it just fits above the valve for the accusump. Banjo adapters to -3AN look a bit odd with the bends, but I don't have to cut and make new lines, and you'll only ever see it in this photo anyways. Things are TIGHT in here!

I pressurized the system with a motive power bleeder, and bled the rear circuit without issues. I should have remembered to bleed the circuit before mounting the hand brake master, as you can see from the mounting angle it traps air. A quick manual bleed moves the air from the hand brake into the rear line, and a second power bleed empties the system. At this stage of my evening, things started to go sour. The handbrake feels wonderful. It's got a good short stroke, and while it does require more effort than my pre-winter setup, it's not bad. I hit the foot brake, no air, and then a second pump and the pedal started to sink. What?! I pumped a couple more times, and that's when I heard it...the tell tale squirt of brake fluid leaking somewhere. Of course, to find the leak required a couple of more pumps...and that's when I realized...I've emptied half a reservoir of brake fluid INSIDE the Rally Bug.

Funny part about having all your brake lines run inside the cabin. You don't have to worry about rocks cutting them, you don't have to worry about them corroding due to road salt. You do, however, have to worry about leaks! The brake fluid was pooling under the driver's seat, which normally wouldn't be an issue except I had been adjusting the seat belts with the new seat. The 6pt belt extras were lying on the floor, instead of wrapped up and ziptied as they usually are. Sigh. Well, didn't need the last 6" of brake-fluid soaked belt tails anyhow, so I cut em off.

Closer inspection of the leak, however, determined that it was actually a pin-hole, and squirting high pressure brake fluid onto the center tunnel, and was then spraying everywhere like a garden hose. A whole roll of blue towel and a can of brake clean later...and I think the interior is clean :P

Cause? A casting flaw in the 7/16 banjo bolt I bought. The sealing flange, had a nick in it.

-Dave
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Old 03-30-2018, 07:52 PM   #7433
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Changing the oil right now.

Will leave the car up on the stands for the night and put the summers on tomorrow, and check my spark plugs.
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Old 03-31-2018, 12:05 AM   #7434
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New wheel for the cabby... digging it
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Old 03-31-2018, 02:21 AM   #7435
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Lowered the car on some Tein coilovers, J's axleback, expensive ass Volk stickers, Rays lug nuts and an OEM SIR grill




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Old 03-31-2018, 08:32 AM   #7436
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too much rice in the trunk

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Old 03-31-2018, 10:33 AM   #7437
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First post on this forum been lurking for a bit figured I may as well contribute
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Old 03-31-2018, 10:58 AM   #7438
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^ Is that dynamat or did you weld in new floor pans? Owned a few Miata's now and never had any of them rust in those areas.
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Old 03-31-2018, 11:17 AM   #7439
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It's dynamat. Apparently the previous owner put new floor pans in. Relatively not too bad for rust considering year. Hopefully later today or tomorrow I get the joy of scraping the stuff off and putting the new seat in and doing some more work on a custom dash
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Old 03-31-2018, 12:16 PM   #7440
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Finally got my HRE’s mounted. Shitty pics but you get the idea. 19x8.5 et42 but then add a 7mm spacer. My 16mm spacers would have made it poke too far.


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Old 03-31-2018, 01:04 PM   #7441
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It's dynamat. Apparently the previous owner put new floor pans in. Relatively not too bad for rust considering year. Hopefully later today or tomorrow I get the joy of scraping the stuff off and putting the new seat in and doing some more work on a custom dash
Your gut reaction will probably be to use heat, and feel free if you like spending hours and hours of scraping and then following up with mineral spirits or simliar to clean all the smaller stuff. But I would buy some dry ice and freeze it. You can then use a hammer and chisel and it just snaps off the floor boards in clean sheets.

https://www.icebergdryice.com/

I don't have photos of the "in progress" because you want to clean the chips up before they melt, but on the Rally Bug shell I cleaned all the undercoat out from the wheel wells by freezing it with liquid CO2, and simply tapping the panel with a hammer. Each fender was about 20min of work to get this clean.


-Dave
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Old 03-31-2018, 01:53 PM   #7442
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Your gut reaction will probably be to use heat, and feel free if you like spending hours and hours of scraping and then following up with mineral spirits or simliar to clean all the smaller stuff. But I would buy some dry ice and freeze it. You can then use a hammer and chisel and it just snaps off the floor boards in clean sheets.

https://www.icebergdryice.com/

I don't have photos of the "in progress" because you want to clean the chips up before they melt, but on the Rally Bug shell I cleaned all the undercoat out from the wheel wells by freezing it with liquid CO2, and simply tapping the panel with a hammer. Each fender was about 20min of work to get this clean.


-Dave
Thanks for the tips! I've heard about the dry ice trick just unsure where I'd get it in my area (Abbotsford). The stuff on the doors came off quite good with and rather easy with a razor blade and plastic scrapers. I'll see what I can come up with and report back
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Old 03-31-2018, 04:46 PM   #7443
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Finally finished working on my 8.



Good news: summer tires are on, oil is new and fresh, and I got those old spark plugs out. They were incredibly nasty, and they were only a year old. Time to ask the Club...



Bad news: I snapped the hose connector for the a vacuum hose... Fucking plastic piece of shit, so yeah, have to wait until Tuesday so I can get the part and drive the car. Nothing equivalent at the local parts store, either. FML.



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Old 03-31-2018, 09:15 PM   #7444
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It's dynamat. Apparently the previous owner put new floor pans in. Relatively not too bad for rust considering year. Hopefully later today or tomorrow I get the joy of scraping the stuff off and putting the new seat in and doing some more work on a custom dash
Custom dash... drift build?

I've got some parts collecting dust in the garage if you're interested. FC 4-pot front brakes w/ Chikara built custom adapter (pads and discs included), R-pkg rear lip, ARTech 2.5" custom built exhaust w/ Magnaflow race mufflers (purchased from 320icar above lol)
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Old 03-31-2018, 10:20 PM   #7445
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Discovered my car has cancer. From what I've read, if it shows beyond the cladding, it'll be much worse under the cladding. Kind of like vinyl tops from 40 years ago.



Hmm

Run car into the ground or sell while money can still be made?
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Old 04-01-2018, 07:56 PM   #7446
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Custom dash... drift build?

I've got some parts collecting dust in the garage if you're interested. FC 4-pot front brakes w/ Chikara built custom adapter (pads and discs included), R-pkg rear lip, ARTech 2.5" custom built exhaust w/ Magnaflow race mufflers (purchased from 320icar above lol)
Ooo I may get back to you on that. I truly have no idea what my plan is, hopefully grip car. I just wanted to engine swap a car and doing it on my mini seemed to scary for a first swap. Got an Acura j32a1 to put in once I'm done procrastinating
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Old 04-01-2018, 09:29 PM   #7447
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Old 04-02-2018, 01:15 PM   #7448
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Wanted to head to a buddy's place today to fix my intake and exhaust camshaft position sensor, when I found out that im on cords. Rebate for the tires I want aren't in effect until April 9, so I swapped the bald, corded tire/wheel set, with the rear, and swapped on the 265s PSS (so much wider)

I feel like I've set it up to understeer when hot, and oversteer when cold now. Not the ideal option, but I guess it'll have to do for a month.

On a side note, for the two camshaft position sensors, it requires a one time use filister screw (M6x16 - pn: 11-42-1-740-488). Autowest wants $25 each and two weeks to ship from Germany. FCP/ECS wants $20.50 cad and 4 days shipping. OR do you guys think I can get away with just grabbing a sam size screw from Lordco/NAPA?






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Old 04-03-2018, 10:28 PM   #7449
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I've put a 1000km on the Rally Bug, 800 of which was today. Had to stop for a few items...

Got to the ferry terminal, and realized I didn't have any brake lights. Whoops, guess I forgot to check a rather important item before leaving the shop! A quick run through all the terminals and the lights were back in business.

Next 'feature' I discovered, was after a good hour or two of driving, the car developed an issue where it appeared as though the throttle cable was sticking. Instead of going back to idle, it would rev 500rpm too high. After being unable to find the issue in Hope, I chalked it up to something I'd need to look into and continued on to Kamloops. Coming into my exit in Kamloops I realized I didn't have any engine braking, and may even have some maintenance throttle going into the exit ramp. Uh-oh, this could get interesting. YUP, 1/4 throttle stuck on, can't even kick the pedal back to get neutral. And that's when it dawned on me...

The vibrations while the car was running, caused the throttle-stop bolt to back out. There's two bolts, one for full-throttle, and one for neutral. The neutral one backed out, tipping the pedal forward. A quick stop over to a hobby shop in Kamloops, and I had a 5mm nut to lock it down with. While I was down there, I figured I'd red-loctite the full throttle stop as well.

No photos, my phone bit the biscuit about 2hrs after Kamloops. Just the android boot screen over, and over, and over again. Sigh.

-Dave
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Old 04-03-2018, 11:12 PM   #7450
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Got my 8 running earlier today.

The car seems to run a bit smoother with the new spark plugs.

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