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-   -   What did you do to your vehicle today? (https://www.revscene.net/forums/666595-what-did-you-do-your-vehicle-today.html)

320icar 05-03-2018 04:01 PM

Picked up 5 new tires for my 4th set of wheels for the RS lol. Out of sheer curiosity I bought the absolute cheapest tires I could find as a set of drift mode shredders.

255/35/18 for $72 brand new trololololo. Installing on wheels tomorrow. Review to come once I experience rain/sun and diffeeent road surfaces

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/863/4...c8b26f5f_z.jpg
Generated from my Apple iPhone using tools.rackonly.com

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/949/4...cd76f3ce_z.jpg
Generated from my Apple iPhone using tools.rackonly.com

CCA-Dave 05-04-2018 07:57 AM

So I'm going to go out on a limb here and say I'm the only RS member who's oil change procedure includes baking an oil tank in the oven?

https://scontent.fyvr4-1.fna.fbcdn.n...38&oe=5B56424C

Oil changes in the Rally Bug aren't the most fun...I didn't flush the Accusump on this one (even though it's due) so I'll be doing another change once I get home from ColoRADo. Pull the seat, drain the system, pull the tank, swap the oil filter, clean the tank, bake the tank, replace the tank, tighten it all up, refill, prime and good to go.
https://scontent.fyvr4-1.fna.fbcdn.n...70&oe=5B5D4D92

-Dave

dared3vil0 05-04-2018 09:10 PM

Why do you need to bake the tank?

R. Mutt 05-04-2018 09:50 PM

Picked up my English Racing 2.2 race slr long block from Blaine yesterday :chairdance:
https://preview.ibb.co/i6zRPS/781200..._D0_DCB6_A.jpghttps://preview.ibb.co/ek8d4S/452752..._C0_DD7461.jpg
https://preview.ibb.co/hJ94B7/0_EFC6...BCA51672_E.jpg

New 65/min turbo should be here next week. Just need the injectors, double pumper and then we can start making some jam :)

CCA-Dave 05-04-2018 09:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dared3vil0 (Post 8901551)
Why do you need to bake the tank?

Depends on how fast I want to do an oil change :)

After pulling and draining the tank, I clean it out using a degreaser. First a nasty petroleum base, which gets drained into a special tank, and then a gentle biodegradable type (which also goes in the special tank). After the gentle stuff, I have to rinse out the tank with water (as we don't want degreaser in the engine oil). If I'm not in a rush, the tank simply sits in the shop until the water evaporates. If I'm in rush, like I was last night, I toss it in the oven, set at 200degF for 10min.

Comes out dry as bone!

-Dave

CCA-Dave 05-04-2018 10:33 PM

Awful night in 'the shop' tonight. Burnt up the wiring harness on my best friend's Audi.

I think I posted it eons ago when I was doing the turbo swap into it, but it's been in storage at my place while he's off working in the hinterlands. Anyways, I need the trailer I store it in, so pulled the trailer out and then realized i had the wrong drop hitch on the truck. Switched out the drop hitch, and unloaded the Audi.

Well, there's a reason I had the high hitch on the truck when I loaded it...car is damned low. Do you think I remembered after the winter? Nope. Front end caught the beavertail hinge, and somehow caught the main power line from alternator positive junction. Tore up the insulation and grounded out the cable. You can probably guess the rest.

Not sure how much of the harness is gone, wires from unrelated items are melted to it. Going to be a tough project to swallow when I get back. We pushed it into my shop, even after it had been outside it just reeks of electrical fire. Worst part is I can't even close the windows on the car.

At least it didn't burn down.

https://scontent.fyvr4-1.fna.fbcdn.n...fa&oe=5B8D3F4B

R. Mutt 05-05-2018 03:14 AM

Yikes, sorry to hear that. But yes, could have been much worse!

320icar 05-05-2018 06:10 AM

The tinkering never stops, does it

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/950/2...22f5035c_z.jpg
Generated from my Apple iPhone using tools.rackonly.com

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/870/4...191afef9_z.jpg
Generated from my Apple iPhone using tools.rackonly.com

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/971/4...0ef24fb5_z.jpg
Generated from my Apple iPhone using tools.rackonly.com

hud 91gt 05-05-2018 06:56 AM

That sucks Dave. But it didn’t burn down. Can all be fixed. Best friends know that.

IMASA 05-05-2018 07:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by R. Mutt (Post 8901563)
Picked up my English Racing 2.2 race slr long block from Blaine yesterday

Nice, did you have to pay taxes/duties or did they let you through?

R. Mutt 05-05-2018 10:45 AM

Thanks. I paid tax (2k :( ) no duty.

underscore 05-05-2018 08:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CCA-Dave (Post 8901569)
Front end caught the beavertail hinge, and somehow caught the main power line from alternator positive junction. Tore up the insulation and grounded out the cable.

If the wiring was hanging that low I'd say it was only a matter of time before something snagged it and that happened. At least it was at probably the best possible place when it did.

CCA-Dave 05-06-2018 04:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hud 91gt (Post 8901584)
That sucks Dave. But it didn’t burn down. Can all be fixed. Best friends know that.

Tried to call him, but he wasn't available for a call. Could text though. He told me not to worry about it, followed by "I know how you are, and you can stop beating yourself up over it. Its okay,"

lol, he knows me well.

CCA-Dave 05-06-2018 04:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by underscore (Post 8901636)
If the wiring was hanging that low I'd say it was only a matter of time before something snagged it and that happened. At least it was at probably the best possible place when it did.

Alternator on this car is mounted low, and it has no factory front crossmember anymore due to big FMIC. The alternator line goes forward to the crossbar I built to hold the FMIC, and was strapped to the back of it. When I bottomed out the car, I didn't mention that I tore the bumper cover off it's mounts (not actually that big a deal...designed to pull out). The P-clamps holding the cable to to the crossmember spun, pulling the cable down and under the crossmember.

You literally had to bottom the front end out, tear off the bumper, on a hill, while in reverse, for this to ever happen.

OOPS! :P

-D

TopsyCrett 05-09-2018 09:46 PM

Few small details, Checkerd Sports CNC aluminium angle plate holder and OEM JDM "Coupe" badge installed.

https://scontent.fyvr1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...2e&oe=5B8FB0A1

https://scontent.fyvr1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...6c&oe=5B90EBDC

CCA-Dave 05-15-2018 08:13 PM

Having driven from Port Alberni down to Glenwood Springs Colorado, I unloaded the rally bug to see if the fuel injection system really is going to be better than carbs for multiple events at vastly different altitudes.

It hard-started, but did make it out of the trailer okay. Hit the road though, and it was a big pile of dog-turd. Okay, its not going to compensate for altitude automatically (not surprised, given the system I'm using), so start a fresh map. 20min of run-and-tune later, and things were getting pretty good. But man, I have weird electrical issue that feels like its cutting spark. At first I thought it was fuel, but fuel pressure is good. It feels like fuel. I'm sure it was fuel. Which pretty much confirmed that it has to be ignition. If you're convinced its a fuel problem, it's probably ignition. If you're convinced it's ignition...probably fuel.

A little while later, it was confirmed when the car bogged and I lost connection to the ECU on my laptop at the same moment the rally computer flickered. WTF? Pulled over, checked all the connections, and figure it's gotta either be fouled plugs or the electronic ignition acting up.

The tune was getting better, however, and the car pulled up to 11,990ft on Loveland pass with zero problems.

https://scontent-ort2-2.xx.fbcdn.net...ac&oe=5B990C0F

It has a really bad hard-start problem though, so I figured it has to be plugs. Sure enough, they were pretty fouled. Cut up my wrists swapping all four in the parking lot, but it fired right up as soon as I was done.

Bring on adventurous Colorado driving!

-Dave

StanleyR 05-15-2018 08:24 PM

Ordered a set of these staggered 18's for my Lexus. https://www.lexuspartsnow.com/parts/...r59-53130.html

Canadian dealers have them for about 350-400 each. Dealers in the states are clearing them out for 69ish each! Cheaper than repairing my stock 18's and give it a nice OEM racing look. Never seen them on another IS Lexus yet!

TopsyCrett 05-15-2018 10:19 PM

While replacing the dented fender that came with the car, my dad helped me do some cleaning.

https://scontent.fyvr1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...8d&oe=5B84A6B6

https://scontent.fyvr1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...38&oe=5B508B83

Honda bleeder cap works with T1R calipers

https://scontent.fyvr1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...fc&oe=5B94BA00

Installed Alpine Double din + Conditioned Leather on Key!s wheel with Waxed Shine product.

https://i.imgur.com/vCU465N.jpg

Bender Unit 05-15-2018 10:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by StanleyR (Post 8903036)
Ordered a set of these staggered 18's for my Lexus. https://www.lexuspartsnow.com/parts/...r59-53130.html

Great Find.
Set of 18" OEM F-Sport for $345.
Better than any aftermarket crap.

StanleyR 05-16-2018 03:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bender Unit (Post 8903065)
Great Find.
Set of 18" OEM F-Sport for $345.
Better than any aftermarket crap.

Exactly.
Here's a thread with more info
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-...-for-70-a.html

lilaznviper 05-16-2018 10:14 PM

Replaced RS installed TRD springs with some new eibach

out with the old
https://i.imgur.com/vtJLqxC.jpg?1

in with the new
https://i.imgur.com/VWv0Kr0.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/W2Hkfce.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/I2epToR.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/2ZgE8zT.jpg

should have done another 14mm socket meet up :fullofwin:

i-vtecyo 05-24-2018 09:15 PM

What a beautiful day to work on the soccer van.

https://scontent.fyvr1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...a0&oe=5B94C6BC



Spoiler!


Parts: Shy of $90
Labour: Free.. well actually, 5 hours of my time..

fliptuner 05-26-2018 11:55 AM

You're a long way from your island.

https://i.imgur.com/dzRo0jT_d.jpg?ma...idelity=medium

#youlostboy?
#sweetbeard

Zedbra 05-27-2018 05:55 AM

Went back to a fishbowl and pulled all my 10 year old tint from my rear windows. I used a steamer and the side windows went well, but the rear left all the glue on and hours of scrubbing later I finally got the glue off.

320icar 05-27-2018 07:00 PM

installed some rally armour mudlfaps, and did a quick brake inspection after track day. lots of pad life left and no wave/grooves in the rotors, but theyve been sqealing at the 5km/h roll since then.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/978/4...d9cc7d64_b.jpgUntitled by 320iCar, on Flickr

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1746/...96414171_b.jpgUntitled by 320iCar, on Flickr

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1756/...d66752a9_b.jpgUntitled by 320iCar, on Flickr

during the track day i noticed a vibration above 160kmh. have been having issues finding what it was. took off and reinstalled under tray, rebalanced wheels, removed and cleaned fog light surrounds etc. someone got a good photo at the track and after some zooming in i saw exactly what the issue was.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/832/4...8d714c2b_b.jpgUntitled by 320iCar, on Flickr

front lip was installed with self tapping screws as per the instructions, and to be fair feels quite secure, i pulled and manipulated it and it never would have been on my radar without that photo. so i drilled out the tech screws to 1/4" and riveted in some threaded inserts. i shouldn't have any other problems

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1730/...4caf09b9_b.jpgUntitled by 320iCar, on Flickr

then once i removed my undertray again (which is wrecked from the winter) i started tracing it out to make some new smooth underbody paneling. going to do a two piece splitter/undertray design. the oem undertray uses scoops for air circulation, but all that does is shovel gravel, dirt and snow and pack it under the tray.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/901/4...87ac43c7_b.jpgUntitled by 320iCar, on Flickr

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/981/4...31ec702d_b.jpgUntitled by 320iCar, on Flickr

plans are to add NACA style ducts to the undertray and direct the air to the PTU (front diff). that way i can still collect a good amount of airflow while also keeping the highest scrubline possible. i plan to also add a NACA style duct in front of each front wheel for brake cooling. there is some designed swoops from factory, but they just kinda toss the air to a deflector, they dont really do that well of a job.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/901/4...23dd37de_b.jpgUntitled by 320iCar, on Flickr


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