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Picked up 5 new tires for my 4th set of wheels for the RS lol. Out of sheer curiosity I bought the absolute cheapest tires I could find as a set of drift mode shredders.
255/35/18 for $72 brand new trololololo. Installing on wheels tomorrow. Review to come once I experience rain/sun and diffeeent road surfaces
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So I'm going to go out on a limb here and say I'm the only RS member who's oil change procedure includes baking an oil tank in the oven?
Oil changes in the Rally Bug aren't the most fun...I didn't flush the Accusump on this one (even though it's due) so I'll be doing another change once I get home from ColoRADo. Pull the seat, drain the system, pull the tank, swap the oil filter, clean the tank, bake the tank, replace the tank, tighten it all up, refill, prime and good to go.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dared3vil0
Why do you need to bake the tank?
Depends on how fast I want to do an oil change
After pulling and draining the tank, I clean it out using a degreaser. First a nasty petroleum base, which gets drained into a special tank, and then a gentle biodegradable type (which also goes in the special tank). After the gentle stuff, I have to rinse out the tank with water (as we don't want degreaser in the engine oil). If I'm not in a rush, the tank simply sits in the shop until the water evaporates. If I'm in rush, like I was last night, I toss it in the oven, set at 200degF for 10min.
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Awful night in 'the shop' tonight. Burnt up the wiring harness on my best friend's Audi.
I think I posted it eons ago when I was doing the turbo swap into it, but it's been in storage at my place while he's off working in the hinterlands. Anyways, I need the trailer I store it in, so pulled the trailer out and then realized i had the wrong drop hitch on the truck. Switched out the drop hitch, and unloaded the Audi.
Well, there's a reason I had the high hitch on the truck when I loaded it...car is damned low. Do you think I remembered after the winter? Nope. Front end caught the beavertail hinge, and somehow caught the main power line from alternator positive junction. Tore up the insulation and grounded out the cable. You can probably guess the rest.
Not sure how much of the harness is gone, wires from unrelated items are melted to it. Going to be a tough project to swallow when I get back. We pushed it into my shop, even after it had been outside it just reeks of electrical fire. Worst part is I can't even close the windows on the car.
Front end caught the beavertail hinge, and somehow caught the main power line from alternator positive junction. Tore up the insulation and grounded out the cable.
If the wiring was hanging that low I'd say it was only a matter of time before something snagged it and that happened. At least it was at probably the best possible place when it did.
__________________ 1991 Toyota Celica GTFour RC // 2007 Toyota Rav4 V6 // 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee
1992 Toyota Celica GT-S ["sold"] \\ 2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee CRD [sold] \\ 2000 Jeep Cherokee [sold] \\ 1997 Honda Prelude [sold] \\ 1992 Jeep YJ [sold/crashed] \\ 1987 Mazda RX-7 [sold] \\ 1987 Toyota Celica GT-S [crushed]
Quote:
Originally Posted by maksimizer
half those dudes are hotter than ,my GF.
Quote:
Originally Posted by RevYouUp
reading this thread is like waiting for goku to charge up a spirit bomb in dragon ball z
Quote:
Originally Posted by Good_KarMa
OH thank god. I thought u had sex with my wife. :cry:
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hud 91gt
That sucks Dave. But it didn’t burn down. Can all be fixed. Best friends know that.
Tried to call him, but he wasn't available for a call. Could text though. He told me not to worry about it, followed by "I know how you are, and you can stop beating yourself up over it. Its okay,"
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Quote:
Originally Posted by underscore
If the wiring was hanging that low I'd say it was only a matter of time before something snagged it and that happened. At least it was at probably the best possible place when it did.
Alternator on this car is mounted low, and it has no factory front crossmember anymore due to big FMIC. The alternator line goes forward to the crossbar I built to hold the FMIC, and was strapped to the back of it. When I bottomed out the car, I didn't mention that I tore the bumper cover off it's mounts (not actually that big a deal...designed to pull out). The P-clamps holding the cable to to the crossmember spun, pulling the cable down and under the crossmember.
You literally had to bottom the front end out, tear off the bumper, on a hill, while in reverse, for this to ever happen.
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Having driven from Port Alberni down to Glenwood Springs Colorado, I unloaded the rally bug to see if the fuel injection system really is going to be better than carbs for multiple events at vastly different altitudes.
It hard-started, but did make it out of the trailer okay. Hit the road though, and it was a big pile of dog-turd. Okay, its not going to compensate for altitude automatically (not surprised, given the system I'm using), so start a fresh map. 20min of run-and-tune later, and things were getting pretty good. But man, I have weird electrical issue that feels like its cutting spark. At first I thought it was fuel, but fuel pressure is good. It feels like fuel. I'm sure it was fuel. Which pretty much confirmed that it has to be ignition. If you're convinced its a fuel problem, it's probably ignition. If you're convinced it's ignition...probably fuel.
A little while later, it was confirmed when the car bogged and I lost connection to the ECU on my laptop at the same moment the rally computer flickered. WTF? Pulled over, checked all the connections, and figure it's gotta either be fouled plugs or the electronic ignition acting up.
The tune was getting better, however, and the car pulled up to 11,990ft on Loveland pass with zero problems.
It has a really bad hard-start problem though, so I figured it has to be plugs. Sure enough, they were pretty fouled. Cut up my wrists swapping all four in the parking lot, but it fired right up as soon as I was done.
Canadian dealers have them for about 350-400 each. Dealers in the states are clearing them out for 69ish each! Cheaper than repairing my stock 18's and give it a nice OEM racing look. Never seen them on another IS Lexus yet!
yea, this is ez pz! Oh wait, how the fk do i do the rear 3?
by removing a bunch of stuff...
old vs new. Believe it or not, these are original plugs from factory after 213,000kms.
might as well replace the pcv valve since im already in here, right? Wait a second..this is starting to sound like another maintenance journal coming up..
good as new.
Parts: Shy of $90
Labour: Free.. well actually, 5 hours of my time..
Originally posted by v.b. can we stop, my pussy hurts... Originally posted by asian_XL fliptuner, I am gonna grab ur dick and pee in your face, then rub shit all over my face...:lol Originally posted by Fei-Ji haha i can taste the cum in my mouth Originally posted by FastAnna when I was 13 I wanted to be a video hoe so bad
Went back to a fishbowl and pulled all my 10 year old tint from my rear windows. I used a steamer and the side windows went well, but the rear left all the glue on and hours of scrubbing later I finally got the glue off.
installed some rally armour mudlfaps, and did a quick brake inspection after track day. lots of pad life left and no wave/grooves in the rotors, but theyve been sqealing at the 5km/h roll since then.
during the track day i noticed a vibration above 160kmh. have been having issues finding what it was. took off and reinstalled under tray, rebalanced wheels, removed and cleaned fog light surrounds etc. someone got a good photo at the track and after some zooming in i saw exactly what the issue was.
front lip was installed with self tapping screws as per the instructions, and to be fair feels quite secure, i pulled and manipulated it and it never would have been on my radar without that photo. so i drilled out the tech screws to 1/4" and riveted in some threaded inserts. i shouldn't have any other problems
then once i removed my undertray again (which is wrecked from the winter) i started tracing it out to make some new smooth underbody paneling. going to do a two piece splitter/undertray design. the oem undertray uses scoops for air circulation, but all that does is shovel gravel, dirt and snow and pack it under the tray.
plans are to add NACA style ducts to the undertray and direct the air to the PTU (front diff). that way i can still collect a good amount of airflow while also keeping the highest scrubline possible. i plan to also add a NACA style duct in front of each front wheel for brake cooling. there is some designed swoops from factory, but they just kinda toss the air to a deflector, they dont really do that well of a job.
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) no duty.
