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To each their own - I don't need night vision when I am looking for a tool in my trunk. Red and orange bother my eyes and I can't stand either in my interior. Been in VWs now for 20 years, their interiors have all been blue lit, so I am used to it and prefer it now. The LEDs can be had in many colours and are cheap enouh to swap out and tryu others if you wish
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Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Squamish
Posts: 925
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I can't remember if I mentioned in December that I picked up an MG Midget?
The car had a 'restoration' in the 90's that was terrible. Grey carpet cut and glued everywhere, fiberglass for rust repair...right over the rust, they didn't even cut out the bad stuff. Mechanically the car isn't terrible, drove up onto the trailer but has zero brakes.
A buddy and I took care of all the structural work and welding it needed. All the repairs are well hidden except for one large patch I put under the passenger floor. All the repairs were done to the topside, but if you ducked your head under it looked bad so I just did a smooth patch panel over the crud.
Tore out all the nasty grey-shag carpet, and replaced it all with black. Added wiring for seat heaters, chargers, and some tunes.
Today I swapped all the brake lines, resealed the rear axles, and then worked on the front end. I can't help put put a little rally into it, and I have some ideas for making it more signature 'me'. Those will have to wait...bits have been ordered.
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Join Date: Apr 2013
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We have brakes! First time I've ever had a bleed screw strip out of a wheel cylinder on the 'last bleed'. Broken 'em trying to open, yup. Pull the threads out after 4 or 5 times already using it with success? Nope. Good thing I had backups ready, it was a quick swap.
We have clutch! At least, I think we do. Pedal doesn't feel 100%, but then I haven't driven an MG hydraulic clutch in a year +, and my Rally Bug has a full Tilton setup in it, so the feel is vastly different. I should probably just jump in my MGB to get a feel, but it's cold and wet out :P Now that I know there are no leaks (with the car sitting overnight), I'll fire it up and see if I can get gears on the stand without any issues.
Thought I would explore the transmission leak a little last night, and discovered stripped threads on one of the 'plugs'. Number 76 in the diagram.
It should have a couple of interlock balls above it, and I would have anticipated at least one would fall out (but having never pulled an MG transmission apart, they may be held captive as part of the assembly). The plug is shaped to obviously hold the interlock ball in, but even rotating through the gears won't allow me to seat the bolt flush with the transmission case. Hmmm...previous owner, who's a friend, didn't mention any issues with the gearbox. A slight mystery, one which may find some enlightenment if I actually read the transmission chapter of the repair manual. In the meantime, my shop helicoils are metric only, so I'll have to see if I can get a 3/8-24 set today to repair the trans. Worst case scenario there is enough meat to go up to 10mmx1.0 and I can fashion the correct shaped bolt on the lathe.
Deciding if I want to replace my steering wheel with a brand new OEM one, or get it refinished in the same material. I thought about Alcantara but I can't be asked to keep it clean.
Waiting for my new spark plugs also, going to replace them when I do the Thermostat on the car. Might as well do an oil change also.
Towed it to work the next day and started working on it on my day off...
Actually found out that it had actually rusted away, over the last 22 years, underneath the rubber vibration dampener that's clamped halfway along the axle shaft. It was also fractured by the rust pretty badly as well.
Then I decided I should do the clutch (it was chattering super bad, i kind of deferred it since I owned the car for the last couple years).
Found out it was down to the rivets, but it wasn't really slipping though. Just crazy chatter.
Put a nice Exedy Clutch in.
And also did the oil pan gasket. Was tired of smelling burning oil every time i was waiting at a traffic light. It was one productive day LOL.
"While you may not need to replace the flywheel when replacing your clutch, it is always a good idea to inspect it. If there are radial cracks or deep grooves, then it's definitely time for a new one.
I forgot to include that haha.
I did replace the flywheel.
While the old one was in good condition to machine and reuse, but for the sake of saving time and not having my hoist tied up, I got a new flywheel instead for approximately equivalent cost (perks of work). Now, with the old one, I'll either save it for next time (that will be a long time), or sell it...
I didn't save much time in the day though... the first flywheel they sent me came in the right box with correct p/n but wrong part inside
Ordered new rear brake rotors and pads. Debating if I wanna do fuel injectors on my car. They're really cheap @ $22.09usd/each for the Bosch ones (Bosch is the OEM Supplier for Injectors on my car) total would be $174usd for all 8.
And to make the most of the tunes, larger FMIC and piping. Right now still holds 24psi to redline, but with a few more additions I wouldn’t mind creeping it up a bit further (wastegate actuator and WMI)
Had one as a rental back in 2002. Worst seats ever. They dug into my rear shoulder muscles. Car was un-driveable for me unless I hunched forward like an 80 year old with bad posture.