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Vancouver Auto Chat 2016 VAC Community Head Moderator: Raid3n

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Old 02-05-2019, 02:05 PM   #7901
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well mines fucking scary without cooking and cleaning. SO what the FUCK BRO!!??!?!!?
Scammed, dispute to government since PayPal won't deal with it.

Brake Rotors and other hardware arrive tomorrow
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Old 02-05-2019, 02:55 PM   #7902
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I started cutting the rear fenders out of my 95 civic HB, cut the spot welds and opened it up like a tin can. No turning back now.
Oh man, I remember doing that to my STi when she was still only a year old. Still, dat flared look is well worth it if everything survives the modifications.
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Old 02-05-2019, 03:54 PM   #7903
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Hypa, I'm going for the stock no rust look!!! I considered bolting on flares to cover it up but then I would have to be putting down some major HP and doing to crazy turning to back up the stance. In reality it's also a test run for this type of project, if it works out I'm going to cut into some 60's stuff.
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Old 02-08-2019, 04:43 PM   #7904
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Took my brother's B16 swap with ITR tranny, installed a CTR cluster.
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Old 02-08-2019, 04:52 PM   #7905
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Took my brother's B16 swap with ITR tranny, installed a CTR cluster.
Where did you get that rep mugen b series cover? any issue of metal shaving inside the cover when you got it?
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Old 02-08-2019, 04:55 PM   #7906
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No idea, it was already on the swap. Engine ran good for the two years my brother had it. I'm probably going back to OEM soon.
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Old 02-09-2019, 05:18 PM   #7907
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This wind storm kicked out our power all day, it motivated me to ceramic coat my summer rims that are just waiting for May.

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Old 02-10-2019, 09:35 PM   #7908
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Well, the car is finally on the ground! The front left caliper locked up, which was odd, and when I pressed the pads back to see if I could repeat the issue I found fluid on the rotor. Ordered in a rebuilt caliper (last rebuilt caliper available in Canada!) only to open the box and find a right-hand caliper in the box. Sigh. I did manage to get some rebuild kits, and figured I'd see what I could do. One of the piston's in the left side caliper made it clear as to why I got fluid on the rotor, this is after cleaning it up as best I could:


But I have three calipers (technically), and thus six pistons...and I only need four! So I decided to use the new rebuilt caliper on the front right, and tear that one down to gain a good piston for the front left. With the left rebuilt, I mounted both calipers, started to bleed the brakes, and had to tighten the front right banjo bolt. Can you guess what happened?

*snap*. #@&$!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I forgot to check the depth of the banjo bolt before installing it, and as my brain was thinking "hey, I wonder if this bottoms out in the new caliper" it snapped. E-Z out couldn't pull it, and I considered using the mill to bump the fitting up to an M10, but realized I'd probably have to go up to an M12 banjo fitting to have enough meat for the threads. Well, crap. I had already split the OLD RF caliper to pull the piston the easy way, and the rebuild kits I had (AP) didn't come with the seal between caliper halves. Ugh. Well, I'm hooped anyways...so I split the new caliper, and measured that seal to see if I would have something that matched. Managed to find something in my random-VW seals box, probably a seal used in a type-4 motor...but it's the exact size I needed, so I tossed it all together and onto the car. "But Dave," I can hear you saying, "that seal may not be brake fluid safe?" True, but I had two of them...so one is sitting in a cup of brake fluid on my work bench, and the other is (currently) holding fluid at pressure in the brake system. 24 hours later and the seal in a cup appears to be the same dimension and brake fluid safe...

Swapped out the rear limit straps, including cutting out the bolts and sleeves on the upper mounts as they had all become one-unit together. This required making up some new sleeves on the lathe, and swapping the upper mounts over to metric hardware. Hey, I'm a VW guy and my shop has basically zero in the SAE department! I've got my Fastenal guy putting together an SAE kit for me.


Finally, I got under the car and sprayed texturized rubber undercoat over both floorpans and all of my welding repairs. Future me is going to hate myself for doing that, as it sucks to remove at a later date, but should anyone of authority look under the car, it looks safe and well repaired, vs patchworked. The exception to this is the passenger side where I did tack and seal a flat panel over all our patch work, but I simply have to remove the front seat cushion to show the quality repairs from the topside. Thought I almost lost an eye in the process. I was under the car spraying at arms length with just safety glasses on, vs. a full face sheild. I had shifted slightly to get a far off spot, and as my brain was thinking "I should tuck my chin in", a drop of undercoating splashed back and beelined for my eyeball, UNDER the glasses between glasses and cheek. I'm not sure if it hit me right in the eye, or I closed my eye fast enough, but it doesn't matter. BURNED LIKE YOU WOULDN'T BELIEVE. I got out from under the car and into the house for an eye ball washing session relatively quickly, but it was a scary 30min. Thankfully the black eyeliner I gave myself has only lasted a few days, and my eye seems perfectly fine. Wear your safety gear kiddies.

Now that the car is on the ground, I've realized two things. First, I think I need to rebuild the spare front shocks I have an prep them for install. The front feels awfully soft, but more importantly the right side feels softer than the left. Both sides pass the "bounce test" in what I would consider appropriate for a 60's car with oil-shocks. Second, my gut reaction was correct and I've chosen the wrong wheel colour. If I ever return the car to a stock looking midget with windsheild and hub caps, they'll look quite classy. But with the look I'm going with...they're completely out of place. My buddy Warwick called it, even before the wheels were powdercoated, and I should have switched the colour. Black with the caps (currently phototshopped) fits the look really well.





I think I'm going to end up pulling the wheels and plastidipping them for a black look. Gotta sit on it for a little bit. Tonneau cover has arrived in Vancouver, but it will be a few weeks before I have it in the shop to do the install. And now, we wait for spring weather to show up...
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Old 02-10-2019, 10:23 PM   #7909
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thought vtec solenoid gasket went at only 150k
tightened the oil filter
too cold to work in an unheated garage
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Old 02-10-2019, 11:25 PM   #7910
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Covered the Plastic Honda steering wheel with a leather wrap





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Old 02-11-2019, 09:17 AM   #7911
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I would not have the patience for that. Nice work!
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Old 02-11-2019, 12:00 PM   #7912
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Ordered a different T-Stat for my car and also ordered new hood support bars since mine could use replacement. Debated if I should order new trunk support bars also.

Cost:

$22.02usd for the set, I saved $55.88USD by buying the OE one instead of the ones from BMW. The only difference is that the BMW ones say E9X M3 on the bars LOL.

Looked at the cost for rear ones just now also. $26.44USD, definitely will order those whenever I need another engine maintenance item from FCP.
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Old 02-11-2019, 12:53 PM   #7913
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do you have quite a bit of textile experience?

if i attempted that it would just get wider and wider by the end of the stitch
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Old 02-11-2019, 01:28 PM   #7914
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textile experience is from grade 8 home ec lol

It took like 5 hours, but it is worth it since it's something I'm always touching while driving
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Old 02-11-2019, 01:57 PM   #7915
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textile experience is from grade 8 home ec lol

It took like 5 hours, but it is worth it since it's something I'm always touching while driving
lol something taught in high school that was useful!! yay!
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Old 02-12-2019, 11:06 AM   #7916
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Impressive work on your car, Dave!

Nice wrap job, ssjGoku69! I wanted to do the same for our Toyota but couldn't find an exact fit wrap. I ended up buying a used leather steering wheel from Ebay.
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Old 02-12-2019, 12:35 PM   #7917
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textile experience is from grade 8 home ec lol

It took like 5 hours, but it is worth it since it's something I'm always touching while driving
Where did you buy the wrap?
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Old 02-12-2019, 02:00 PM   #7918
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^ Aliexpress or Ebay has lots
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Old 02-12-2019, 06:56 PM   #7919
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Going to go pick up my rotors from the states. They finally arrived after 6 days of delays LOL.

Adams Polishes finally fixed an issue with an order I placed all the way back in November which I didn't receive.

Its like Christmas for me basically haha.
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Old 02-14-2019, 03:25 PM   #7920
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Hammered away at some aluminum for ECU/Fuse box mount for the Z.

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Old 02-14-2019, 05:58 PM   #7921
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Happened a week ago, my car got the blues. SunTek HP50

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Old 02-14-2019, 06:58 PM   #7922
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Did you do that yourself? Where'd you source the tint? Thinking of getting the same on my WRX
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Old 02-14-2019, 07:30 PM   #7923
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Did you do that yourself? Where'd you source the tint? Thinking of getting the same on my WRX
I ordered the tint online at Tint Center out of the US and had Brookswood tint install it. I did the sunroof as well. The blue isn't popular and most tint shops around here won't order it in as they have to order a 100' roll. I found one shop that would order it in, but the pricing was going to be $250 more than me ordering it myself. Window Tint - SunTek HP Blue - 40" Wide - SunTek - Automotive - TC Store


I am tired of the blacked-out look and wanted good UV and heat blocking capabilities - the HP50 fit the bill. I really like it, but I can see how it isn't for everyone. It gets darker out of the sun.

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Old 02-14-2019, 10:52 PM   #7924
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Installed my Competition Werkes fender eliminator tonight







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Old 02-16-2019, 06:12 PM   #7925
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Started stripping my bike apart at the end of November with a long list of maintenance items I wanted to attack. First on my list was to rebuild my front end as the old springs were sacked and the lowers were looking a little haggard. After stripping the forks apart, I hand sanded, then polished the lowers, and afterwards I had them Cerakoted with their new polished aluminium coating; I have had a lot of my guns coated with Cerakote and I know how much abuse it can take, so I am looking forward to seeing how it works on my fork lowers. Starting this morning, I reassembled my lowers with new bushings, guides, seals, and Progressive HD springs (full disclaimer - my local one-man Indy shop helped with the fork tube assembly as it is really a three hand job without jigs); by this afternoon it was all back together. I wasn't even done my second beer after all that work getting here; that's just the way it is.

Tearing the rear swing arm off next to replace bearings and bushings.





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