Upgraded my dash cam memory card. I had no idea it was only 4 gigs (the one that came with the camera). Turns out with all my random saved videos, I was only able to record about 10-15 minutes of continuous footage lol
Hopefully by saving less videos and a bigger card I can actually save a lot more time worth of footage.

You can’t download the saved vids?

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...97aa289f_b.jpgUntitled by GhstRidr, on Flickr

bumper got a poor mans drift stitch until I have time to do a middle class bumper off drift stitch

I can, but I don't do it often enough and it fills up really fast and I don't do it as often, so this gives me more insurance against being lazy for a longer while
:alone:

^ understood. I’m an expert procrastinator myself :accepted: :badpokerface:

I found that the high speed Class 10 micro sd card that i bought (64GB) has nearly the perfect amount of recording space for me. It gets about one full day of continuous plus a little bit more, that gives me enough reassurance that i can wait until the end of the day and pull a video from the morning. Tried a 32GB card and it only kept half a day until overwriting, but it would probably be sufficient for someone who doesn't spend all day on the road. Also found out that the high speed class 10 card needed a reader compatible eith USB 3.0. The USB 2.0 reader couldn't even detect the card.

No pictures but, I swapped out my drilled rotors for (unfortunately) heavier blanks. It's much less squeak, more quiet, thank god. Man sometimes I drive by 320icar's neighborhood, and I'm thinking to myself, "I am so sorry for my brake squeal". Or when everyone has their windows down in the city and all you hear is squeak squeak squeak SQQQQQQQQUUUUUUEAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAK.

We used an impact bit + pb blaster to try to get out the 6mm allen screw that holds in the rotor. One came off fine, the other ones were stuck. I gave in and decided to buy a torch. Torched the shit out of it and used a 3/8 drive breaker bar to break loose the screw. Worked perfectly.

Still need to do a brake flush tho. I got ATE Type 200 sitting at home, but it turns out I need to bleed in the following order:
- Passenger Rear
- Driver Rear
- CLUTCH
- Passenger Side
- Driver side

I don't know how to bleed the clutch, so I might just take it to a shop, especially with BMW's very particular system.

Is the BMW clutch any different then any other? I wouldn’t be too afraid, same philosophy as the brakes. Snag a buddy for a couple hours.

dude your friggin amazing man! you do so much work on your bmw that you could almost run a specality bmw shop. :fuckyea::fuckyea:

Not sure, but I've heard that if you screw up the brake bleed, you'll have to get it towed to a shop that has BMW diagnostic equipment to do an electronic bleed for the ABS systems.

I'll call it Rusty Bolts Automotive LOOOOOOOOOLEleGiggle

The Cummins-swapped Chevy truck developed a weird electrical issue at Rocky Mountain rally. Traveling over one of the gravel roads to the stage, the wipers started actuating on their own. The left turn signal would come on at random...and at night, the headlights would randomly turn on and glow dimly. Sigh.

The truck is a bit of a wiring nightmare, having all the GM 6.5L engine harness still in the engine bay, with the six or so wires I need hooked up. The old "I'll get to it one day" problem. This weekend I pulled out the wiring diagram, and found the various areas all the problem circuits share...turns out its a single ground splice. Hmmm, can't be the ground. Pulled the harness under the dash apart, and both engine and accessory harness apart in the engine bay to trace the wiper wires. No shorts, no breaks, no problems. Wipers still have a mind of their own. Pulled the steering column apart, replaced the combination switch (which sucks). $125, wipers still have a mind of their own. The circuit control board can be a problem in the chevy's, so I pulled it out and resoldered the board. Problem seems better, but wipers still have a mind of their own. About 50% better. Replaced the control board with a new one ($40) and...wipers still have a mind of their own. Turn signals too. Tore the front end trim off the truck, disassembled and checked the turn signal wiring harness. No faults found. And that's when I saw it...

What is that mark on the radiator?! Oh gee. Apparently my left battery, while tight and secure, is not that tight and secure...sure enough, the positive battery terminal has left some short marks on the side of the radiator. Loosened the battery, touched it to the radiator...wipers flip on. WTH? You know how they say first step of any electrical work is to disconnect the battery? I rarely do...but had I DONE it this time, I could have saved myself the day! After a full day and $165, I solved the problem with an old bike tube, and some zip ties. Sigh.

Trailer modz

https://i.imgur.com/wbBsi06.jpg

Waiting for stake pockets

this was a few weekends ago but i prepped for my first Track day.

Front Brakes (EBC Yellow and EBC GD slotted/dimpled rotors)
ATE Typ 200 brake fluid flush (literally everybody in the world needs to buy a motive power bleeder...)
Hayden Transmission Cooler
resonatorless midpipe
and a bunch of other odds and ends while I had the car up on stands

https://scontent-ort2-1.cdninstagram...ninstagram.com

The pizza box list of tasks needing to be crossed off proves legit work

I originally had it on my phone but thought the cardboard list was just simple and a much more satisfying indicator of the progress.

also...I didn't wanna get the phone all greasy lol

Fuel tank swapped in my Jeep = no more impersonating the Exxon Valdez everywhere I go. While waiting to use the air compressor (didn't want to wake the kid) I popped the new resonator on my car as well. It was a snug fit, and I'll need to spacer down a crossmember a smidge, but it's in there.

I need a new distributor on my Beater, I figure I'd keep driving it till it dies. Thoughts are putting in a used one?

Quick release finally came so I could put on my new wheel. Also finished up my double din install...noticed the stock speakers on the Integra are absolutely terrible. Prob gonna get some better 6.5s. Down the rabbit hole I go

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...b890c3eb_b.jpg

parts are pretty much all gathered, next weekend will need to be scheduled for lots of work.

2013 focus ST calipers (painted to match oem blue brembos'), premium blanks, hawk HP+ pads, raybestos lines, rbf600 fluid, coilovers, camber plates, 30mm strut spacers, 26mm/22mm sway bars, adjustable end links, tpms sensors, 16x7 sparco terra's, 3" hole saws for strut towers

waiting for tires to come in, then everything can be installed. skidplate, billet rear toe/camber arms to be ordered this friday

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...576ff114_b.jpgUntitled by 320iCar, on Flickr

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...b88d6b32_b.jpgUntitled by 320iCar, on Flickr

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...9f74628e_b.jpgUntitled by 320iCar, on Flickr

Sorry if it's a stupid question, my knowledge of newer Fords isn't what it could be... but why would you use ST calipers on a RS? Are they known to be better somehow?

^ I assume to fit under smaller wheels?

Where'd you get the spacers from? I need some for my Celica but I can only find rears. I could make the fronts but I really don't have the time.

What coils are those

ford focus all road/xcountry