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After getting my car all back together, I never got to my first test drive. I heard a rattling noise I didn’t like. It wasn’t consistent with RPM, so I wasn’t that scared but it did sound like it was coming from the block/timing case. After a ton of troubleshooting with a pipe to my ear, I got under the car to move some hoses, and grabbed the crank pulley/toothed wheel. The toothed wheel had come loose and was rattling on the crank pulley! Perfect! Next day I can pull the pulley, tighten/loctite it on and then wrap my downpipe in heat wrap and I’m good. 1-1.5hours tops.
The next day I spend half the day trying to pull the crank pulley without removing the radiator. (Which probably would have taken 20 minutes…). I made a pulley remover, and got it done. Perfect!
Do to tighten the toothed wheel. I scrip the screw (M5 machine screen, Allen head). Spend the next hour removing those. Drill and retap all the holes for M6 with new machine screws. I did this on my mill… cause I have a mill. Lol. Could have done it in 1/3 the time by hand, but this is accurate. Lol.
Go to reinstall the pulley. The key, from the keyway in the crank falls in the oil pan! Pull the pump to see if I can get in there with a magnet. Nope! Off comes the pan. Then I searched around the Datsun community for a new gasket. Found one 45 minutes away. Ok I’m set for tomorrow(today). Should be back at square one.
Sometime in the night I decide I want to fix an oil leak I’ve had since I rebuilt the engine. I suspect it’s the rear main cap side seals (holds the rear crank bearing). First thing in the morning I see if I can source the seals. Yup, just 45 minutes away lol! They are in my hands by noon, and the scary fix begins.
Cap removed, bearing/crank checked. Resealed with goop (I think I used the wrong goop last time, or just not enough). New oil pan gasket installed (bit of a PITa with the engine in the car). Oil pump reinstalled, swaybar reinstalled, degreased, and waiting for new oil (required 24hour dry time). Wrapped the down pipe and re-installed. Tidied up my hoses, and loose ends. Made a mini heat shield for the turbo recirc/Boost valve (plastic, on the turbo, not sure what kind of heat they can take).
Time to eat my lonely Easter Sunday dinner, and just need to add a single connector for the boost control valve, after dinner. And BAM, right where I should have been a couple days ago because of one stupid mistake lol. But I got odds and ends done too.
Seasonal oil change (what a mess!) installed fire extinguisher and under-seat bracket, and DE day technical inspection.
last pic looks like they are deciding on how they will screw you
__________________ There's a phallic symbol infront of my car
Quote:
MG1: in fact, a new term needs to make its way into the American dictionary. Trump............ he's such a "Trump" = ultimate insult. Like, "yray, you're such a trump."
bcrdukes yray fucked bcrdukes up the nose
dapperfied yraisis
dapperfied yray so waisis
FastAnna you literally talk out your ass
FastAnna i really cant
FastAnna yray i cant stand you
320icar's photos from pages back, got me thinking to partially restore some of my own paint
After standing at crappy tire, staring at all the cutting/polish/wax/scratch fix/ceramic coating stuff for 30 minutes, convincing myself not to do so, i did so anyways.
Got about 1/2 my car done in 2-3 hours, with a milwaukee 18V drill at half battery.
Meguiar's Quik Scratch Eraser Kit - 30$
Gonna use some jetseal once i finish the rest.
Door handle is plasti dipped
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.Money i hate people who sound like they smoke meth then pretend like they matter.
Originally Posted by ilovebacon
Does anyone have a pair of 25 pounds one-inch hole for sale at a reasonable price?
Originally Posted by mikemhg
Clothes come off and my car is permeated with the smell of fillet-o-fish and canned tuna.
Bought a Curt hitch off FB Marketplace to get a bike rack, but frustratingly when I tried to install it, the holes did not line up. Was about half an inch too short. What should've taken 30 mins took 2 hours the first time around trying to stretch or bend it out to at least get the bolts threaded.
Seems like the warping of the hitch is a common issue with this brand.
I thought it over, and Macgyver'd a solution using a car jack and an old 2x4 to stretch out the hitch:
Which worked beautifully and fit on like a glove:
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skyxx
Sonick is a genius. I won't go into detail what's so great about his post. But it's damn good!
2010 Toyota Rav4 Limited V6 - Wifey's Daily Driver
2009 BMW 128i - Daily Driver
2007 Toyota Rav4 Sport V6 - Sold
1999 Mazda Miata - Sold
2003 Mazda Protege5 - Sold
1987 BMW 325is - Sold
1990 Mazda Miata - Sold
That's good to know because I want to add a hitch to our Rav4.3 as well. I even have the same jack to stretch it lol.
Another thing to note if you do install for this particular car is that the undercoating on mine covered the mount holes. So don't be surprised to not see mount holes where you expect them from the instructions. You just need a razor or something to cut away the undercoating to expose the holes.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by skyxx
Sonick is a genius. I won't go into detail what's so great about his post. But it's damn good!
2010 Toyota Rav4 Limited V6 - Wifey's Daily Driver
2009 BMW 128i - Daily Driver
2007 Toyota Rav4 Sport V6 - Sold
1999 Mazda Miata - Sold
2003 Mazda Protege5 - Sold
1987 BMW 325is - Sold
1990 Mazda Miata - Sold
Made a strut bar. Apparently these actually do something in these old cars.
I made it so I can adapt some firewall braces in the future…. And no the strut nuts aren’t tightened, just couldn’t wait for the paint to dry to see what it looks like on the car. lol.
Made a strut bar. Apparently these actually do something in these old cars.
I made it so I can adapt some firewall braces in the future…. And no the strut nuts aren’t tightened, just couldn’t wait for the paint to dry to see what it looks like on the car. lol.
Any change it could be built as a triangular brace toward the firewall, or even a 4 point one to the rad support? Though the rad support idea seems unlikely since your rad seems taller than the support.
Yes, triangulated was always the plan. That’s what I meant by adding the firewall braces (note under the photo). The beefy part of the firewall is a bit tough to squeeze a drill into with the engine in. I’ll finish it off some other time.
You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our free community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today!
The banners on the left side and below do not show for registered users!
no one will know hah. Looks so clean overall! So good
