That's better than when they messed up the clearcoat on the Boxster S calipers and it would flake and peel off. If they're getting that hot though the shims are probably a good idea for protecting the piston boots too.

After stripping someones crappy plastidip off, then filling some damage with JB weld, then scuffing, then 2 coats of primer, I did the first wheel with 3 coats of paint yesterday. Tomorrow it gets the clear coat, and the other 3 will get the JB weld treatment.

https://i.imgur.com/vB8Ox4o.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/ja38OFU.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/F6S8xV8.jpg

I wonder if I'll turn my brakes green then....

I had no idea they turned black lol.

Not sure about BMW ///M, I'm not sure if those are Brembos.

VA STI uses Brembos, they go from Neon Green to Neon Yellow to Black lol

I'm 90% sure the F chassis blue brakes are Brembos, and 100% sure they'll go from blue to green if you cook them. Documented cases on the forums and some dealers will warranty them.

I put on 3 coats of clear, let it sit, and came back to whatever the cinnamon toast fuck this is.

https://i.imgur.com/jCqfRsI.jpg

This is the paint I used: https://www.homedepot.ca/product/rus...int/1000777713

This is the clear I used: https://www.homedepot.ca/product/rus...int/1000666134

I followed the directions for the paint and waited 48 hours to do the clear. What did I do wrong?

Consumer grade paints are terrible for wrinkling. Basically, the base layer isn't fully cured, so the solvents in next layer, pull up the "skin" and wrinkle up.

My suggestion would be to do the clear, within an hour or 2 after the base coat.

Or wait like a week for the base to fully cure, then apply your clear.

My preference, is to use whatever basecoat, let it cure for a couple of days, then use 2 coats of 2K Glamour Clear (within 30mins-1hr of eachother). Basically, the best clear you can get in a can, with a catalyst. I've mounted tires the next day, no problem.

Side note: it also works awesome for protecting headlights, after refinishing.


Sold for twice what I'd get here lol

This happens when your coats are too thick and you don't wait long enough.

Temp has a big affect on how it cures, make sure it's warm and little moisture in the air like rain.... run a heater or blow dryer in your painting area.

The coats take way longer to cure and you'll fuck it up with a new layer with fresh solvents.

If you don't want to start all over again, wait a few days then sand the cracks down with a sanding block backed with wet sand.

Feather the edges and hit it with primer/color in those spots. Don't hard mask it with masking tape, you want to blend it all in. Wait and sand it so paint is level to the old paint. Then hit the whole thing with a light coat again.

Didn't know you were building to sell. But I should have known better with a username like that. :suspicious:
Build another and let me try it before you sell it.

I had that problem when I sprayed too thick and the puddles started drying. I had to take a block and level it. Still didn't look great, and you might have to go to town and redo that wheel.

That wasn't the original plan but ultimately, it wasn't a forever car and I had an offer I couldn't refuse. In the interest of time, space and money, I decided just to build and keep the ones that will almost be impossible to replace.

So during the winter I sheared off a rear diff bolt on the RS. Did a sketchy fix I won’t tell the techs about and sent it ice racing still, but since then it’s just sat in the driveway. Having a 2 year old and shift work means it’s taken 6 months to fix a problem a shop could do in ~8 hours. But I refused to pay that much money in shop labour for a $3 bolt.

Lifted the rs, dropped the entire rear suspension/brakes/subframe assembly to gain access to the diff, Hubs/axles out. With the help of a friend <3 at the machine shop, extracted the bolt, helicoil.. Reverse of install and there yah go. About 4 hours out/4 hours in. All in the driveway…

https://i.ibb.co/jkq6MWB/9-A0-B4346-...4817-B4157.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/D5zz4Gw/15-D7-C99-C...7643-DB5-D.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/bB5yG8z/28-D8-BD0-F...292-E2-C17.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/tHQmWKC/2-EEFB025-8...79-E53-FCA.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/pdFbLbK/E3069-B3-B-...1-CB3839-D.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/VWQbKSp/1-C134-D62-...8-C02828-B.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/sysDB42/62-B88-FE7-...-FEB1-FFA1.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/pX4ZMpJ/6-BD6-DD80-...35-A964583.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/BrrJgFv/C3-C49144-7...80-DAD8103.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/Mn1fqS1/1-A94-A34-A...A49-F80213.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/hF652NR/5-F937-BD7-...-E1-DE4-D6.jpg

Also took the time to replace some shit ass exhaust clamps that couldn’t seal the exhaust and then seized lol. Still have a couple other things to check out before I drop it down and take it in for an alignment. Needs to be driven badly though!

How did you sheer that?

He's a big guy that takes many trips to Mexico

400+ awhp and regular 5000rpm clutch drop launch controls.

I think the reason it broke during winter is I run a hydraulic e brake setup (which disengages the centre diff) and I was hooning around a lot in the snow. That’s when I noticed the clunk

He's telling us to go bother him if we need to drop our subframe :whistle:

Since it's out should have powerwashed the shit out of it and then powder coat the whole thing neon green to match the wheels :lol

Dirty old rotors

https://teslamotorsclub.com/tmc/atta...b8-jpg.824232/

https://teslamotorsclub.com/tmc/atta...61-jpg.824234/

https://teslamotorsclub.com/tmc/atta...c2-jpg.824233/

Now do the rotors too

I assumed you were trolling... but I didn't realize this is actually a thing??

I didn't paint the contact surface of the rotor. Had to mask it up and so careful with the spray paint.

similar to this guy

Ah yes, after doing a heater core in a 2.5L Z4, the power top finally broke on the 3.0 SI Z4.

https://i.imgur.com/aAQ0E0V.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/oD6ReCs.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/gtVrULe.jpg

Thank BMW for putting the motor inside a 2 part housing, sealed with gaffer's tape with no drain hole. I'm not even scared anymore.

https://i.imgur.com/KHv6CHJ.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/OxbhSJp.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/dsWaL9H.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/xFZpueG.jpg

holy shit balls. hats off to you trolly

Given what you just went through on this Z4, would you recommend them to own/buy?

Also, was this Z4 stored primarily indoors? Or was it mostly left outside and eventually leading to what you've had to tackle? Would you do it again? Inquiring minds are asking. :hotbaby:

Most importantly, did you enjoy doing this? Emphasis on enjoy as in you took pleasure in this.

Edit: I fucking want one.

I don't actually own these two, but I've spent a lot of seat time with them now.

The 2.5i 5 speed is actually a "better" sports car. The top is not powered and overall much lighter than the 3.0.

Both of them suffer from really bad steering feedback. They handle like a roadster, but the steering feels like an IS250. BMW made this sports car for 50-year-olds, and and shows. It's comfortable and a nice cruise. I would say the steering on and FRS is 10X better.

The 3.0 SI 6 speed is fun and rare. It has enough power (255hp) but again suffers from the same steering issue. You can really feel the weight on the 3.0 with all the fancy motors and gadgets. The motor is smooth, the gear box is decent. You can get in trouble with this car.

Both of these cars sat outside. The motor problem is actually pretty common and not due to neglect. Once the tape fails, it will drown itself. Most ppl actually take the pump and relocate it to the trunk.

Would I own one? Absolutely not. I don't have the patience or money for this kind of stuff; I'm just helping a friend fulfill one of his dreams of owning these things. The joy I get is watching him have fun.

They share no parts with any other BMW and replacement widgets are very expensive. They are, however, very good-looking.

They're not horrible to work on if you're a small guy (for obvs reasons). I'm just a hack that works a normal office job, so if me and a buddy can pull this off, I'm sure anyone can.

The 2.5L he bought for $4,200 bucks and has been rock solid as a DD over the past 2 years.

My RDX is quite noisy (road noise in particular) so I've decided to do a sound proofing project on it - trunk, doors, and cabin floor. I've done this before a couple times on my TSX and Miata and have liked the results but I've never done it in the cabin and not with the knowledge I have now of the process. Only got halfway through the trunk yesterday (6 hours) and will chip away at this summer with the goal to get it done before I head to Seattle for summer vacation in late Aug (I hate how loud I-5 is).

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/acurazi...215fbfb7a.jpeg
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/acurazi...e867bb43e.jpeg

The second shot shows it after I applied closed cell foam and dampener but before I applied mass loaded vinyl on top.