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That's better than when they messed up the clearcoat on the Boxster S calipers and it would flake and peel off. If they're getting that hot though the shims are probably a good idea for protecting the piston boots too.
After stripping someones crappy plastidip off, then filling some damage with JB weld, then scuffing, then 2 coats of primer, I did the first wheel with 3 coats of paint yesterday. Tomorrow it gets the clear coat, and the other 3 will get the JB weld treatment.
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__________________ 1991 Toyota Celica GTFour RC // 2007 Toyota Rav4 V6 // 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee
1992 Toyota Celica GT-S ["sold"] \\ 2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee CRD [sold] \\ 2000 Jeep Cherokee [sold] \\ 1997 Honda Prelude [sold] \\ 1992 Jeep YJ [sold/crashed] \\ 1987 Mazda RX-7 [sold] \\ 1987 Toyota Celica GT-S [crushed]
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Originally Posted by maksimizer
half those dudes are hotter than ,my GF.
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Originally Posted by RevYouUp
reading this thread is like waiting for goku to charge up a spirit bomb in dragon ball z
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Originally Posted by Good_KarMa
OH thank god. I thought u had sex with my wife. :cry:
Not sure about BMW ///M, I'm not sure if those are Brembos.
VA STI uses Brembos, they go from Neon Green to Neon Yellow to Black lol
I'm 90% sure the F chassis blue brakes are Brembos, and 100% sure they'll go from blue to green if you cook them. Documented cases on the forums and some dealers will warranty them.
Consumer grade paints are terrible for wrinkling. Basically, the base layer isn't fully cured, so the solvents in next layer, pull up the "skin" and wrinkle up.
My suggestion would be to do the clear, within an hour or 2 after the base coat.
Or wait like a week for the base to fully cure, then apply your clear.
My preference, is to use whatever basecoat, let it cure for a couple of days, then use 2 coats of 2K Glamour Clear (within 30mins-1hr of eachother). Basically, the best clear you can get in a can, with a catalyst. I've mounted tires the next day, no problem.
Side note: it also works awesome for protecting headlights, after refinishing.
Originally posted by v.b. can we stop, my pussy hurts... Originally posted by asian_XL fliptuner, I am gonna grab ur dick and pee in your face, then rub shit all over my face...:lol Originally posted by Fei-Ji haha i can taste the cum in my mouth Originally posted by FastAnna when I was 13 I wanted to be a video hoe so bad
This happens when your coats are too thick and you don't wait long enough.
Temp has a big affect on how it cures, make sure it's warm and little moisture in the air like rain.... run a heater or blow dryer in your painting area.
The coats take way longer to cure and you'll fuck it up with a new layer with fresh solvents.
If you don't want to start all over again, wait a few days then sand the cracks down with a sanding block backed with wet sand.
Feather the edges and hit it with primer/color in those spots. Don't hard mask it with masking tape, you want to blend it all in. Wait and sand it so paint is level to the old paint. Then hit the whole thing with a light coat again.
I followed the directions for the paint and waited 48 hours to do the clear. What did I do wrong?
I had that problem when I sprayed too thick and the puddles started drying. I had to take a block and level it. Still didn't look great, and you might have to go to town and redo that wheel.
Didn't know you were building to sell. But I should have known better with a username like that.
Build another and let me try it before you sell it.
That wasn't the original plan but ultimately, it wasn't a forever car and I had an offer I couldn't refuse. In the interest of time, space and money, I decided just to build and keep the ones that will almost be impossible to replace.
Originally posted by v.b. can we stop, my pussy hurts... Originally posted by asian_XL fliptuner, I am gonna grab ur dick and pee in your face, then rub shit all over my face...:lol Originally posted by Fei-Ji haha i can taste the cum in my mouth Originally posted by FastAnna when I was 13 I wanted to be a video hoe so bad
So during the winter I sheared off a rear diff bolt on the RS. Did a sketchy fix I won’t tell the techs about and sent it ice racing still, but since then it’s just sat in the driveway. Having a 2 year old and shift work means it’s taken 6 months to fix a problem a shop could do in ~8 hours. But I refused to pay that much money in shop labour for a $3 bolt.
Lifted the rs, dropped the entire rear suspension/brakes/subframe assembly to gain access to the diff, Hubs/axles out. With the help of a friend at the machine shop, extracted the bolt, helicoil.. Reverse of install and there yah go. About 4 hours out/4 hours in. All in the driveway…
Also took the time to replace some shit ass exhaust clamps that couldn’t seal the exhaust and then seized lol. Still have a couple other things to check out before I drop it down and take it in for an alignment. Needs to be driven badly though!
400+ awhp and regular 5000rpm clutch drop launch controls.
I think the reason it broke during winter is I run a hydraulic e brake setup (which disengages the centre diff) and I was hooning around a lot in the snow. That’s when I noticed the clunk
Given what you just went through on this Z4, would you recommend them to own/buy?
Also, was this Z4 stored primarily indoors? Or was it mostly left outside and eventually leading to what you've had to tackle? Would you do it again? Inquiring minds are asking.
Most importantly, did you enjoy doing this? Emphasis on enjoy as in you took pleasure in this.
Edit: I fucking want one.
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Originally Posted by BIC_BAWS
I literally do not plan on buying another vehicle in my lifetime, assuming it doesn't get written off.
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Originally Posted by EvoFire
But fuck that exterior is like dating integra girl
I don't actually own these two, but I've spent a lot of seat time with them now.
The 2.5i 5 speed is actually a "better" sports car. The top is not powered and overall much lighter than the 3.0.
Both of them suffer from really bad steering feedback. They handle like a roadster, but the steering feels like an IS250. BMW made this sports car for 50-year-olds, and and shows. It's comfortable and a nice cruise. I would say the steering on and FRS is 10X better.
The 3.0 SI 6 speed is fun and rare. It has enough power (255hp) but again suffers from the same steering issue. You can really feel the weight on the 3.0 with all the fancy motors and gadgets. The motor is smooth, the gear box is decent. You can get in trouble with this car.
Both of these cars sat outside. The motor problem is actually pretty common and not due to neglect. Once the tape fails, it will drown itself. Most ppl actually take the pump and relocate it to the trunk.
Would I own one? Absolutely not. I don't have the patience or money for this kind of stuff; I'm just helping a friend fulfill one of his dreams of owning these things. The joy I get is watching him have fun.
They share no parts with any other BMW and replacement widgets are very expensive. They are, however, very good-looking.
They're not horrible to work on if you're a small guy (for obvs reasons). I'm just a hack that works a normal office job, so if me and a buddy can pull this off, I'm sure anyone can.
The 2.5L he bought for $4,200 bucks and has been rock solid as a DD over the past 2 years.
My RDX is quite noisy (road noise in particular) so I've decided to do a sound proofing project on it - trunk, doors, and cabin floor. I've done this before a couple times on my TSX and Miata and have liked the results but I've never done it in the cabin and not with the knowledge I have now of the process. Only got halfway through the trunk yesterday (6 hours) and will chip away at this summer with the goal to get it done before I head to Seattle for summer vacation in late Aug (I hate how loud I-5 is).
The second shot shows it after I applied closed cell foam and dampener but before I applied mass loaded vinyl on top.
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at the machine shop, extracted the bolt, helicoil.. Reverse of install and there yah go. About 4 hours out/4 hours in. All in the driveway…
