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Unfortunately it does not come with a hard case and only local sellers in Japan sell the case, and I had to get it shipped separately.
__________________ 08 CBR600RR 03 IS300
Ezekiel 25:17. The path of the righteous man is beset on all sides by the inequities of the selfish and the tyranny of evil men. Blessed is he who, in the name of charity and good will, shepherds the weak through the valley of the darkness. For he is truly his brother's keeper and the finder of lost children. And I will strike down upon thee with great vengeance and furious anger those who attempt to poison and destroy my brothers. And you will know I am the Lord when I lay my vengeance upon you.
In preparation of the Sept 18 day, we had another eventful day of prepping the cars. This time around tho, we bought a Motive Pressure Bleeder.
FA5 (8th gen civic si) - Flushed MTF, front/rear pads (carbotech XP10), Stoptech SS lines, flushed brake fluid with ATE Type 200.
FK8 (10th gen civic type r) - Front rotor replacement with EBC (yuck) blank (black yuck) rotors, front/rear pads (Project Mu Club Racer), Deftmotion SS lines, flushed brake fluid with Castrol SRF (courtesy of FCPEuro)
Everything was pretty straight forward, but we jinked ourselves again because the "e" and "q" word was dropped a few times. Lines were quite difficult on the FK8, because apparently people don't work on their cars themselves anymore, so we had to figure most things out via trial & error and by looking at the parts. Eventually figured it out, but I gotta say, I fucking hate retaining clips.
Lines on the FA5 were pretty straight forward, up until we realized that one of the hard lines was replaced at some point of prev. ownership, because it didn't mount up to the SS lines properly. We couldn't get the threads to catch because it would bottom out first. We even swapped the lines to see if it was a line error. Unfortunately, it wasn't.
The brake bleed was interesting. So just a FYI, the torque spec for the banjo bolt on the FK8's rear caliper is 36ft-lbs. We didn't know this. We didn't even know it wasn't tight enough until the power bleeder kept losing pressure. Through a very methodological testing procedure (me pump the brakes), we found leaks throughout the system. Fixed the leaks, proceeded to bleed the brakes, no further issues were found. The brake feel isn't where I thought it would be at with all these upgrades, but I'm hoping that after the first lap out and a proper bed, it'll improve.
Yesterday I got Cho's 275/35/18 RS4s mounted to my car. I'm now running 275 f 255 r. Previously it was 255 f 235 r. Turns are definitely less sketchy, but the car feels way slower on the 275s.
I've got Motul 300V coming in on Tuesday, so that's up next for track prep.
__________________
|| 18 FK8 | R-18692 | Rallye Red | 6 MT ||
|| SOLD 97 E36 M3 Sedan | Arctic Silver | 5MT ||
|| RIP 02 E46 330ci | Schwartz Black II | 5MT | M-Tech II | Black Cube | Shadowline | Stoff Laser/Anthrazit ||
|| RIP 02 E46 M3 | Carbon Black | 6MT ||
I was only planning on running it for track and then immediately doing an oil change due to lack of additives. I'm surprised because that's supposedly the godtier oil that a lot FK8 owners run.
Sent from my SM-G781W using Tapatalk
__________________
|| 18 FK8 | R-18692 | Rallye Red | 6 MT ||
|| SOLD 97 E36 M3 Sedan | Arctic Silver | 5MT ||
|| RIP 02 E46 330ci | Schwartz Black II | 5MT | M-Tech II | Black Cube | Shadowline | Stoff Laser/Anthrazit ||
|| RIP 02 E46 M3 | Carbon Black | 6MT ||
Working on my 98 civic again today. I wired up a fuel pressure sensor to the ems yesterday, the filter strainer sock was collapsing into the pump, fixed that. Still losing fuel pressure over 8500rpm, still going lean. Walbro 255 with 55# injectors, I'm going to try hotwiring to the tank again, but also double up the wires in the tank to the pump. https://www.youtube.com/shorts/RwAqh-6ZYr4
For leaks on this stuff, the biggest thing is to not reuse crush washers. Next is to keep it clean.
That's exactly why it leaked haha. I pushed the brake pedal down and all I heard was a steam of fluid. A big oh shit moment
I didn't realize I had to take off a banjo bolt otherwise I definitely would have bought new hardware. Unfortunately it was 7pm on a Sunday so the only option was to flip the crush washer - fortunately it worked
Sent from my SM-G781W using Tapatalk
__________________
|| 18 FK8 | R-18692 | Rallye Red | 6 MT ||
|| SOLD 97 E36 M3 Sedan | Arctic Silver | 5MT ||
|| RIP 02 E46 330ci | Schwartz Black II | 5MT | M-Tech II | Black Cube | Shadowline | Stoff Laser/Anthrazit ||
|| RIP 02 E46 M3 | Carbon Black | 6MT ||
In preparation of the Sept 18 day, we had another eventful day of prepping the cars. This time around tho, we bought a Motive Pressure Bleeder.
FA5 (8th gen civic si) - Flushed MTF, front/rear pads (carbotech XP10), Stoptech SS lines, flushed brake fluid with ATE Type 200.
FK8 (10th gen civic type r) - Front rotor replacement with EBC (yuck) blank (black yuck) rotors, front/rear pads (Project Mu Club Racer), Deftmotion SS lines, flushed brake fluid with Castrol SRF (courtesy of FCPEuro)
Everything was pretty straight forward, but we jinked ourselves again because the "e" and "q" word was dropped a few times. Lines were quite difficult on the FK8, because apparently people don't work on their cars themselves anymore, so we had to figure most things out via trial & error and by looking at the parts. Eventually figured it out, but I gotta say, I fucking hate retaining clips.
Lines on the FA5 were pretty straight forward, up until we realized that one of the hard lines was replaced at some point of prev. ownership, because it didn't mount up to the SS lines properly. We couldn't get the threads to catch because it would bottom out first. We even swapped the lines to see if it was a line error. Unfortunately, it wasn't.
The brake bleed was interesting. So just a FYI, the torque spec for the banjo bolt on the FK8's rear caliper is 36ft-lbs. We didn't know this. We didn't even know it wasn't tight enough until the power bleeder kept losing pressure. Through a very methodological testing procedure (me pump the brakes), we found leaks throughout the system. Fixed the leaks, proceeded to bleed the brakes, no further issues were found. The brake feel isn't where I thought it would be at with all these upgrades, but I'm hoping that after the first lap out and a proper bed, it'll improve.
Yesterday I got Cho's 275/35/18 RS4s mounted to my car. I'm now running 275 f 255 r. Previously it was 255 f 235 r. Turns are definitely less sketchy, but the car feels way slower on the 275s.
I've got Motul 300V coming in on Tuesday, so that's up next for track prep.
I went ATE 200 and steel lines on my MS3. I didn't feel like it made too much difference on the street, I don't think street driving is anywhere close to taxing enough to feel lines and fluid unless you were running 10yr old fluid.
Where I THINK made a huge difference was on track (emphasis on think).
The brakes were super good with the MS3 at Mission. Never fazed the car even lapping really hard.
The comparison is on the M3 where everything is stock except for fluid, at Mission it got more inconsistent as I pushed it harder. The pedal pressure and feel were inconsistent, the stopping distances were inconsistent, and I couldn't push on braking. Part of it may be due to the pads as the OEM pads aren't amazing.
I was only planning on running it for track and then immediately doing an oil change due to lack of additives. I'm surprised because that's supposedly the godtier oil that a lot FK8 owners run.
Sent from my SM-G781W using Tapatalk
Unless there's a reason for running 300V, your off-the-shelf oil will suffice. The savings had from off-the-shelf oil I'm sure you know is quite significant.
I used to change my oil after 2 or 3 track days and after sending it off for a used oil analysis, I realized I was just wasting money so I just change it once a year.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by BIC_BAWS
I literally do not plan on buying another vehicle in my lifetime, assuming it doesn't get written off.
Am also using a Lexivon torque wrench - mine is the 1/2" one (https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07MP1Q3W8/?th=1). Feels well built, works well far as I can tell, and has good reviews. Also cheap. I only need it twice a year for the winter tire swaps.
I don't really trust the clicking ones, I've found various ones to be wildly inconsistent so I definitely wouldn't trust a cheapy one. Keep in mind it's just a tensioned spring-like mechanism inside that's "letting go" at a certain amount.
I actually still use an old one of my dad's with a tensioned needle over a gauge on it.
I don't really trust the clicking ones, I've found various ones to be wildly inconsistent so I definitely wouldn't trust a cheapy one. Keep in mind it's just a tensioned spring-like mechanism inside that's "letting go" at a certain amount.
I actually still use an old one of my dad's with a tensioned needle over a gauge on it.
How is this one? I forgot to mention that I use this MAXIMUM 1/2 for my wheels. It says "Features a ball bearing release mechanism for high accuracy (3% counter clockwise)"
I just use the entry level Mastercraft one. Been using it for about 8 years and it's worked fine. I only use it for changing wheels a couple times a year.
The precision seem good enough. No wheel has ever came loose or fallen off while on the road, lol.
__________________ __________________________________________________ Last edited by AzNightmare; Today at 10:09 AM
I went ATE 200 and steel lines on my MS3. I didn't feel like it made too much difference on the street, I don't think street driving is anywhere close to taxing enough to feel lines and fluid unless you were running 10yr old fluid.
Where I THINK made a huge difference was on track (emphasis on think).
The brakes were super good with the MS3 at Mission. Never fazed the car even lapping really hard.
The comparison is on the M3 where everything is stock except for fluid, at Mission it got more inconsistent as I pushed it harder. The pedal pressure and feel were inconsistent, the stopping distances were inconsistent, and I couldn't push on braking. Part of it may be due to the pads as the OEM pads aren't amazing.
I think I'm looking for a strong initial bite. The first 20% of my pedal doesn't really do anything, I have to press down hard to get some braking in. Granted that's good modulation but also kind of sus because I don't know if I'm braking - which is how I ended up overslowing the car on some corners (track)
Interesting about the F80, I typically like OEM BMW M pads. They're dusty, but they stop. I think BMW M cars are usually undersized brakes. I thought that would have changed with the M BBK.
Quote:
Originally Posted by bcrdukes
Unless there's a reason for running 300V, your off-the-shelf oil will suffice. The savings had from off-the-shelf oil I'm sure you know is quite significant.
I used to change my oil after 2 or 3 track days and after sending it off for a used oil analysis, I realized I was just wasting money so I just change it once a year.
The OEM oil is 0w20. From what I've read the 5w30 300V has the least amount of oil thining out on track. I get oil for life via a dealership package so my plan was to run Motul 300V, get an oil change done at the dealership and then get Motul 300V again for next track day.
The motul 300v is covered under FCP Euro warranty.
Sent from my SM-G781W using Tapatalk
__________________
|| 18 FK8 | R-18692 | Rallye Red | 6 MT ||
|| SOLD 97 E36 M3 Sedan | Arctic Silver | 5MT ||
|| RIP 02 E46 330ci | Schwartz Black II | 5MT | M-Tech II | Black Cube | Shadowline | Stoff Laser/Anthrazit ||
|| RIP 02 E46 M3 | Carbon Black | 6MT ||
This was from years ago, but iirc if you buy a cheapish torque wrench and have it calibrated it'll be just as good as a fancy one. I rarely bother to use mine unless it's something like a hub nut where the torque spec actaully matters.
__________________ 1991 Toyota Celica GTFour RC // 2007 Toyota Rav4 V6 // 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee
1992 Toyota Celica GT-S ["sold"] \\ 2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee CRD [sold] \\ 2000 Jeep Cherokee [sold] \\ 1997 Honda Prelude [sold] \\ 1992 Jeep YJ [sold/crashed] \\ 1987 Mazda RX-7 [sold] \\ 1987 Toyota Celica GT-S [crushed]
Quote:
Originally Posted by maksimizer
half those dudes are hotter than ,my GF.
Quote:
Originally Posted by RevYouUp
reading this thread is like waiting for goku to charge up a spirit bomb in dragon ball z
Quote:
Originally Posted by Good_KarMa
OH thank god. I thought u had sex with my wife. :cry:
The OEM oil is 0w20. From what I've read the 5w30 300V has the least amount of oil thining out on track. I get oil for life via a dealership package so my plan was to run Motul 300V, get an oil change done at the dealership and then get Motul 300V again for next track day.
The motul 300v is covered under FCP Euro warranty.
Sent from my SM-G781W using Tapatalk
Fancy
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by BIC_BAWS
I literally do not plan on buying another vehicle in my lifetime, assuming it doesn't get written off.
The only exclusion to this program is empty containers with contents that can not be physically returned.
For example aerosol spray cleaners and additives that have been discharged or emptied.
But empty oil jugs are OK, eh?
So basically you just end up paying shipping. I am guessing most of you ship the used/worn stuff back from here (in Canada)? In the past when I tried to mail stuff out to US buyers from PR or Blaine, the US border guard(s) gave me a lot of shxt.
You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our free community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today!
The banners on the left side and below do not show for registered users!
