It prev had champ white TE37SLs on it, 18x9.5+38 with 5mm spacer in the front and a 10mm spacer in the rear. If I had to assume, it's likely the camber settings were to account for the TEs.

It may be a sham. Geely/Zeekr Golden Battery which supposedly pulls 450 KW from 10 to 80 is already bricking and reducing charge speed to 50kW.

almost ready for another season of starbucks run. peepoClap

https://tnstatic.net/attachments/1-jpg.1092185/

Doing an oil change. While leaving it running to check for leaks… somehow I locked myself out of a running car.

No worries! Spares in a drawer.

*click* nothing

“Oh shit” turns out when the ignition is on it won’t react to any clicks on any remote. Just so happens the spare key… is missing the blade portion.

“FUCK!!”

Panic sets in… “should I break my window? Which one’s the cheapest to replace?????”

Tried wedging something in the door frame to use a coat hanger, damn Volvo door frame is too solid!

Can’t pull the battery terminal, risk frying the electronics.

Kill the fuel? Fucking fuel pump relay is INSIDE THE CAR.

Big brain time. Pulled the ECM relay.

Car turns off. *click* still nothing.

Pulled the battery terminal and put it back on.

*click* still nothing.

Then I remembered that the ignition switch is responsible for locking out remote commands!

Fortunately the ignition switch fuse was in the engine bay… pulled that out.

Moment of truth. Spare key was missing the metal physical key… last chance…

*click* UNLOCK!

Success! Missed a dinner date though. Fucking needy Swedish bitch wouldn’t let me go.

Oh well.

I had been suspecting I had an exhaust leak, and I I found this handy way to test for exhaust leaks using a shop vac.

https://i.imgur.com/vK4J8BH.jpeg

It worked pretty well, and it turns out my exhaust was holier than the Vatican. I found small leaks at both of the band clamps for the rear resonator (not very surprising), the joint in between the two midpipe sections (also not surprising), then a pretty big hole in the top of the front section of the midpipe (surprising) and a crack along a weld in the downpipe (sort of surprising).

So I pulled the downpipe and front section of the midpipe to get a better look at things and decide what to do. Of course I had to remove the alt and its bracket to be able to get the last stupid nut beside the dipstick.

https://i.imgur.com/dHcUvO7.jpeg

The downpipe is coated, so I'm thinking of trying to weld up the crack on the inside. The midpipe looks rough all around the hole, so I'm leaning towards putting the stock one back in. From what I understand the stock JDM midpipe isn't too restrictive on an otherwise fairly stock setup. I may do the stock rear midpipe as well, but that would require getting the end piece with the flange welded back on since it was cut off during removal.

https://i.imgur.com/iPMXWwc.jpeg

https://i.imgur.com/rQHNBcX.jpeg

https://i.imgur.com/Zb027M6.jpeg

In hindsight maybe I should've just gone ghetto and smeared a bunch of exhaust cement on the leaks until I had the budget for a whole new exhaust but too late now.

Is this why shops always roll the window down?

Probably :okay:

I added a SUB knowing that I will be buried in this model 3 forever lololol

Honestly the install is pretty straight forward, pretty much 5 connections
- speaker positive
- speaker negative
- power positive
- power negative
- sub remote

after much youtube guides, took the plunge, the hard part was to find an amp/sub that is happy with 16V input

the install was a breeze, the removing all the trim pieces to hide wires were not a good time

Sorry for all the crappy photos, it was more so I was sending to the other Tesla member to verify, I didnt take any good photos, was just focusing on finishing~

https://i.imgur.com/G36EX3h.jpeg

https://i.imgur.com/UAOJHzs.jpeg

https://i.imgur.com/flrPD8y.jpeg

https://i.imgur.com/vFItdZZ.jpeg

https://i.imgur.com/vm5sFnr.jpeg

https://i.imgur.com/2MovC1x.jpeg

https://i.imgur.com/BYiNbFJ.jpeg

https://i.imgur.com/g86L4XQ.jpeg

https://i.imgur.com/lSEz9Qp.jpeg

https://i.imgur.com/gUNK9eE.jpeg

Lol yes it is, yes it is.

You never know... common causes:
- simply accidentally locked the key in lol
- someone walking by with the spare fob locked it
- you're working on a door lock issue that needs the window closed but forgot to open another window or door
- aftermarket alarm that has a preset lock timer

One of the worst ones:
Lifted up the car off the ground and put into gear to look for a rotational noise... doors auto locked after reaching speed and you've finished looking for whatever you're looking for, now you're standing under/next to the car with the wheels going 80 km/h fuuuuuuuuu :rukidding:

why not this one?

https://soundgarageqld.com.au/produc...ev-100swy-t-2/

https://soundgarageqld.com.au/wp-con...1200x630SG.png


by the way I put 8" kicker to the oem enclosure + 400w amp.

budget was the main concern, I wanted to be as cheap as possible hahahaha.But still quality?

Wanted something thats been done before to take the guesstimate out of the equation.

Watched tons and tons of youtube, ran thru a lot of forums. In the end, I am chicken shit, so just copied whats been done before lolol.

I am the the 3rd local owner with the exact setup, and someone has ran this on their model 3 for 2+ years, no issues so far, kcock on wood.

Also, sub is like turned to 25%, the whole car shakes and overpowers everything already... now I want better speakers lolol fml... maybe in a few years

lastly, talking to EvoFire, just so happens this amp/bass setup is also used in the bimmer crowd. Thats what tipped me over the edge, lolol if the quality is good enough for BMWs, its good enough for the Tesla hahaha.

I was in a rough spot emotionally so this was perfect.
- satisfaction of spending money
- satisfaction of finally pulling a car apart to upgrade and not just maintenance
- satisfaction of a smooth process of absolute 0 trouble shooting, everything lighting up/working the first time round

Now! back to making money to make up the loss of this unexpected expense.

Interesting.

oh watch for splinters man

6 hour post winter clay and wax.
i have such a love-hate relationship with black cars.
before i get called out by looooong...i missed the wheel wells :okay:

https://tnstatic.net/attachments/b18...2-jpg.1094563/

https://tnstatic.net/attachments/2fa...1-jpg.1094561/

https://tnstatic.net/attachments/ecb...7-jpg.1094565/

https://tnstatic.net/attachments/e17...9-jpg.1094564/


and this fucking idiot almost bumped me after all my hard work :fuuuuu:

https://tnstatic.net/attachments/thu...3-jpg.1094581/

^^ bekuz kaur

u got kaur'd

Beige camry? (corolla) badhobz for sure

Instead of a sub for your Tesla, this is what you should probably do first in terms of a mod

https://www.facebook.com/share/16EqQpLtfr/

https://scontent.fcxh3-1.fna.fbcdn.n...Jw&oe=67F47A68

https://scontent.fcxh3-1.fna.fbcdn.n...dQ&oe=67F48845

I did nothing to my car yesterday. I was going to swap the winters off the X5, but I realize I don't have my torque wrench or breaker bar.

^^ I've been lazy about swapping too. The nights are still 2-3 degrees

Guys, c'mon over to the 'risky life' side and switch over to AS or summers! :lol
nights are 2-3 degrees ... are you going out at 2:00 am?

That Church's chicken drive through isn't gonna populate itself. I'm all for keeping local economy afloat.

LOL, there's always next time.

I feel your pain about black cars. Washed both cars last night and couldn't believe I somehow ended up with 2 black cars to take care of. But they do look good when they're clean.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...4ec18b2b_b.jpg

^ Our Carbon Black X5 is such a pain. It's ceramic coated but it still gets really dirty really quickly with the beading.

Then there's the problem of it being the family chariot. The kids don't know any better and every little tiny scratch shows.

I get the kids part. I constantly have to vacuum the back seats from all the snack droppings. And wipe down the window from the finger prints from drawing.