That is exactly it yes you can but and ride a 600 without problems.

BUT

A 250 you can push to its limits (and yours) and still be somewhat safe.

Think of it this way most 600 are ridden at 30 % of its limit

Most 250 are only ridden at 60 % of its ability .

Ask people who run 250 track bikes.

why not a 400? cuz they're hard to find i guess. well i'm shamlessly advertising my bike for sale. its a 400. its awesome to learn on, fast enough for fun, but not crazy enough that if you sneezed you could go flying.
-side bar, has anyone ever sneezed while wearing their helmet, i always think about it and how gross the results could be.
back on topic (of me whoring my bike) a 400 is a fun starter size, they're lower than 600s, and for me that was a big issue, and its light, so it doesn't feel like you can't maneuver it around.

anyways here's a link to my fs thread that doesn't give you any reasonable information but theres always google for that:
http://www.revscene.net/forums/67233...dit-400-a.html

Nice bike,

400's are great cause they are cheap as shit to insure too. my 78 GS400 was 65$, my 93 GSXR750 was 125$ same coverage on both, same dc on both.

The problem with 400's is the new ones are to expensive, Ninja 400 vs 650 is about $1200.

The old ones 'Grey Market' frames are to small for me, I am N.A. sized not Japan sized.

The Bandits (400 & 500) not enough of them where sold so when they come up for sale the go fast, (so hold out on your price, unless it is me wanting to buy it)

is there still enough time in the season to grab a bike??

hell yes! a lot of people keep riding on til october

what is the break in process for new bike??? plan to get a new 2012 ninja tomo so excited =D

Mine was first 1000km and oilchange.

how about for the RPM and what not, would it all be in the manual

Just ask the dealership they should know 100%, mine wasnt really allowed to climb past 6000 but he says normal riding is fine.

Dont listen to the service manual.

Ride it hard (im dead serious) just dont red line it. If your red line is 14k, go through the first few gears (safely!) hard acceleration to like 10 k, then go off the throttle and let the bike slow down from engine breaking. Do this as much as possible for the new life of your bike maybe first 1000 km. That will get some VERY IMPORTANT O rings sealed properly and tightly to about 80%, the last 20% will depend on the rest of your riding over the period of like 6000km.

Theres a lot of debate around the topic on breaking in procedures, but this way of breaking in, on sides that vouch for this method and the side that hates this method, they both agree that in the end the bike is faster. The debate is about whether its good for your bike or not.

More info here
Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power

I broke in my bike really hard, and its running great! I just wish I had more control over the first 600km (bought it with 600km ) cause i wanted to follow this break in procedure to the word.

ok i will read that when i get home

one more thing about insurance, do you guys go through icbc basic then privately for the rest, and should i just insure it until the end of october as im coming in very late for the season

just thought of one more while typing this lol do you guys ride in the rain???

I can't ride it hard during break in.... If dealer finds out which they can they will void my warranty 100%.

^ ROFL scumbag dealers.

Break in as manual says, knows that you will need more service because of it LOLOL

If you can go private for insurance beyond basic coverage, that's the way to go. You'll save a hell of a lot of money, ICBC is a rip off

I try to avoid it for comfort's sake, but I will when I need to go somewhere. I'll drive when possible to avoid having to peel wet gear off my body lol though all my gear is waterproof.

where did you purchase??

why not wait for 2013 models?

because i want to ride 2 months ago

went to burnaby kawi got a helmet, black visor, disc lock with reminder and a brand spanking new black 2012 ninja 250 :fuckyea: pick it up on thursday

so for the the first oil change it says to change it after 20miles (about 30km) so do i change my oil using the Valvoline, Halvoline, or similar 10 w 40 Petroleum Car Oil, when do i change it after the first initial change?? 1500 and switch to synthetic? what is best synthetic oil and where to buy?

anyone want to help show me how to change my oil tomo night :)

Go bayside to buy the oil. Buy a semi synthetic for the first like 6000 km, some would argue for the first 10000km, and even people out there say that semi is already really good and its worth the cost savings to keep using semi for the entire life of the bike.

Bayside carries motul, Ben knows his stuff so im sure its great.

If u have the tools and if you dont live too far off I can come by and assist you, never changed oil on a 250 but cant be that much different than gsxr. Just PM me if you wanna take on the offer and we can see times

and if you are going that route for the early change I would change at 30km, then again at 1500km because the service manual says the first oil change should be at 1000km, but your bike! do what you like!

semi synthetic oil is it for cars?? im sorry for stupid qs lol

Bayside wont sell you car oil LOL for every vehicle im sure they all have the options of non synth, blend, and full synth


http://husqvarnaoutlet.com/the_true_...automotive_oil

"These friction modifiers that are added to automotive oils are what cause serious damages when used in motorcycles. The friction modifiers clog the clutch plates in a motorcycle's transmission causing serious clutch slippage and disabling the motorcycle. You see, for motorcycles to be as compact as they are, they have to combine their engine and transmission into one casing. This means that everything is lubricated by only one type of oil including the valves, piston, transmission, and clutch."

Good to know as I am starting out and didn't know as well. :)