Except I won't need it for a really long time lol

Plus, I only put stuff on stands while I'm actually working on them. Spares get strapped onto wheel dollies so I can push them around the garage, since they take up less space.

got some aero to make it not so stock looking
http://i1178.photobucket.com/albums/...425_183951.jpg

coils
http://i1178.photobucket.com/albums/...601522591.jpeg

Impulse buy on this one FailFish
Blackline Led tails
https://encrypted-tbn3.gstatic.com/i...g5lL21D7SGmoHg

led vs stock tails
https://i1.ytimg.com/vi/_N3hoI0QHb0/hqdefault.jpg

Its probably gonna take 1 month from germany .oh wells

Head gasket, head studs, rod hardware, piston rings, pistons, bearings and all the machine shop work to go with it, ugh.

Said "fuck it" and went all out, eh?

Yep, the only gasket that hadn't been removed was the headgasket. 180k isn't that high for a Toyota but I don't want to have to worry about it again for a long time.

Head gasket will be from HKS or TRD (depends how much they need to shave), studs and rod hardware from ARP, pistons will be either Wiseco/CP or the originals depending on the machine work. I think I might be able to get away without boring out the cylinders but my mechanic isn't so sure.

I picked up an adjustable fan controller and probe. No more relays!!!

Also got my seat mounts, a clutch line bracket, fan mounting brackets and a cover for my trans tunnel after I went from auto to manual.

LCI taillights take 5 years off your car's age.

Rotors arrived!


http://i738.photobucket.com/albums/x...g?t=1430364576

What'd you do to your engine? Rebuilding it for preventative measures or did you damage it? Anyhow, I'm rocking the Cometic HG, Wiseco pistons and ARP hardware; it's held up well so far. Would recommend. :bigthumb:

What fan controller? I'm rocking a radiator probe on relay for the time being until I tap one into my thermostat housing. I had a fixed temp style in there but turned on too late, still playing with the new adjustable unit. Hopefully it works out.

I didn't do anything, but it had to come out for the power steering system to get rebuilt and it snowballed from there since it's so much work to pull the motor. I'm really hoping that somehow the block just needs a hone and I can reuse the rotating assembly but I'm not getting my hopes up.

One of the reason why i pulled the trigger!

Lol I see, the "Might as well" part has taken over, haha. For 180k km, the crank should be fine, maybe a little machining but reusable nonetheless.

Your 3S should be a gen 2, right? Buy some 3rd gen 3SGTE cams; it's a little bump in low end torque that's pretty cheap, and OEM reliable. I got mine used out of a JDM clip with less than 80k km on it for $100 shipped. :D

It's A Flex A Lite variable speed controller. It basically starts at 60% and ramps up as needed. I got a skookum deal on it, otherwise I would've sprung for the DCC (Delta Current Control) FK-45, which a lot of people swear by.

Flex-a-lite Variable Speed Control System | JEG'S High Performance
Constant Temperature Controllers and Accessories

Before you drill/tap the t-stat housing, have you considered a rad hose adapter? You can get them from $7-$40 and since the bungs are already imperial, at most you'll need a thread reducer for the sensor.
Radiator Hose Adapter | eBay

In terms of your fan turning on late, is the probe closer to the in or outlet?

I'm one step ahead of you, I've had some gen 3 cams sitting here for the past year haha. Did you stick with the gen 2 shim system or did you go to 1zz shimless buckets?

I wish I had done more research when I put my fans in. Second thought, I wish I had kept my mechanical fan. haha.

The temterature probe is directly below the inlet. When I use my laser thermo, the fan wasn't turning on until over 200 degrees (It was a 180 degree setup). Which is why I now have an adjustable unit. Still adjusting it to come on at the proper time though. As for the thermostat housing, my new motor has a bunch of extra bungs from either emissions systems, or fuel inject or who knows. I won't be using them, so putting the probe there should work out nicely. I just read about those radiator necks literally last week. That should have been my plan A!

I have 1 5/8" between my rad and the waterpump snout, so necessity dictated the need to go electric and have to use a pusher. The upper rad hose is so short and curvy that I can't even use a hose adapter and have to find a useable port on the side of the block.
:okay:

Lol, at least you have a lot of options.

:whistle:

Step up ur troll game pls.

I would've liked to go to the shimless buckets, but ran out of time and money and stuck to stock shims. =\

What are you using for a radiator? Pulling your fan controller temperature off the block is _far_ from ideal. You want to be as close to the radiator outlet as possible.

-Dave

2 core aluminum.

There's a port under the thermostat that Y's off to the bypass and heater core. I'll see if I can make it a 3 way for the switch. I want to avoid tapping into the thermostat housing if at all possible.

You have a power steering leak like all celicas I assume? Find out from where ?? I have my celica going in to get both cv axles replaced and my power steering leak hopefully fixed. Few other minor maintenance things as well.

It was leaking from literally every hose and the pump, I used some tracer dye hoping it was just a single hose but everything lit up like a Christmas tree.

Due for some Maintenance this weekend.

http://i.imgur.com/ARcAhPy.jpg