Water and a sponge or water on paper towel will remove mud.

Hearing news that downtown condos are picking up in toronto / Vancouver. I thought they were still dead. Anyone have first hand experience ? Are you guys seeing prices tick up in downtown as well? Last time I checked they were still below 2018 levels

people must have Boomer eyes not to notice things fucked up in a house their purchasing...that's mind boggling

Unless you're willing to pull the trim, square up the frame, and refinish, you could probably plane the doors to clear.

No I bought near nordel and 84

Sent from my SM-G781W using Tapatalk

lol, I was so confused the last few posts until this; I was thinking that E.I. builders was a specific building company or construction staff that turned to home building after getting off employment insurance. After viewing a few new-build duplexes in east van, a lot of the E.I. duplexes seem to have the same layout, finishings, and quality.


With a lot of new builds, LED light fixtures are in every room, when the light dies, there isn't a way to "change the bulb" is there? You gotta replace the whole fixture.

Yea but it’s almost as easy as replacing a bulb, not a big deal. LED pot lights will be the future, any fixture that uses bulbs now looks super dated imo

Anyone familiar with building codes and radon?

Adding a suite in my detached garage (slab on grade with in floor radiant heating). Can’t find a clear answer as to what is required. Located in okanagan not lower mainland.

Yup, my last house which was new when I bought it had a lot of issues that were annoying.

For example we had them fixed some terrible flashing for the ceiling where the beads were totally fucked at a stairwell opening, they reskimmed it and left it didn't even sand or repaint it had to do it myself. We owned a drywall company at the time wasn't a big deal but the fact is we did buy a brand new house so really shouldn't have to.

They ran a wire connected to a switch for the lights over the sink, they never installed the light didn't find out until a year later. There was always this switch never knew what it did one day I look above cabinets and there is a live wire hooked to that switch.

Electrical was fucked, you'd plug the vacuum in use it for 10 minute touch the prongs when you pulled it out and they were burn you hot.

Light bulbs in almost every light and light fixture would burn out every 6 months because something obviously wasn't wired right so you're constantly changing bulbs waiting for the house to burn down.

They put in a shitty laminate floor that de-lamanted within 6 months of moving in.

The basement door wasn't installed correctly, the frame was mangled and it was constantly stick.

The builder didn't help us at all, I didn't really understand this being in construction my whole life I've only worked for two companies and both were the same, if we have an issue with any of our work we'll always fix it and make it right even if we don't think it's our fault or issue.


I'm so much more happy with my 30 year old house that had a full gut about 4 years ago, it's so much better built.

The issue with EI builders is that their 'company' basically has 1 guy with a license, and hire the rest of their buddy guys straight off the plane to help out with the construction on site. These guys do not have any licenses and they are paying them straight cash.

It's a good thing you're in the industry. I'm worried that all those things that you listed could happen to me, because it sounds like my place.

Random light switch that doesn't do anything. Idk what's wrong with my flooring, but I know it's not right. Every plug we pigtailed with copper so we might be ok there.

Might just have to hire fliptuner to fix my sticking doors LOL


Sent from my SM-G781W using Tapatalk

Anywhere but in BC they'll probably think of this :lol


Yep, retrofit potlights are super easy, pinch hooks & slide in just like a bathroom fan cover. some ppl do complain having to replace fixtures vs bulbs, i tend to tread lightly as they get quite upset at that. for me in electrical that's just product/industry offerings. /shrug

Disclaimer: not an environmental engineer and well in to my long weekend :5shots:

depending where in the interior you are, special rough-in MAY be required. I can't find okanagan on the list, but if you have a more specific area, take a look on table C-4 if your area is "required".

https://free.bcpublications.ca/civix.../bcbc_2018dbac

I will say interior region is a higher risk area, so not a bad idea.

for rough-in of mitigation systems for depresurization (req is noted generically under 9.13.4.3

https://free.bcpublications.ca/civix...cbc2018?2#hit1

the short answer is if it's a 'yes' is you'll need to do something on the lines of adding a special ventilation system for increased air flow so you don't get stale air where radon may linger or be released from below grade in to your residential space.

Problem is people think. If I buy new I have nothing to worry about developer will fix it or I have my 2,5, 10 warranty to fall back on which is just as much of a scam as most new builds. I’ve been looking at detached homes in Burke mountain for the past 2 years and shit houses that are built up here are terrible I can’t believe I see sold signs out front.

Unfortunately, most people don’t realize that they should also be looking at the quality of construction when buying a property. They’re just looking at floor plans, layouts, fixtures, finishings, etc. A new house, to most people, looks fantastic, and the assumption is always that it will last longer than the fixer upper next door.

I know this is a little off-topic, but I'm looking for thoughts/opinions on where to go with my new old kitchen. The house is in great shape but it's clear the previous (elderly) owner hasn't updated it since at least the early 70's.

The cabinets are built-on-site (unitized). They're in decent shape (still sturdy) but are a half century old. I'm not on a shoestring budget but am also not ready to spend what I assume would be $25-35K on someone to come remodel it start to finish. More looking to do something to last the next 5-6 years before a more significant remodel.

Some ideas I've thrown around from cheapest to most $$$ and my initial thoughts:

• Paint the cabinets (DIY) and replace the countertop/backsplash (DIY w/IKEA) - countertop replacement doesn't look like an easy DIY job due to the construction of the cabinets
• Paint the cabinets (DIY) and have someone update the countertop/backsplash - probably re-laminate or cover-over with stainless steel
• Demolish current cabinets and install IKEA cabinets - probably will need someone to come in and do the demo as the cabinets don't look like an easy DIY removal; drywall will definitely need patching, etc.

Totally open to opinions. And contractor recommendations.

If the cabinets are in good condition then just paint it, cheapest option.

For the countertop just hit up a quartz supplier, they almost always will do installs. Look at their current stock/ off cut section for the best deals.

The stainless steel backsplash you can diy also, find a metal supplier such as metal supermarket and they'll cut your sheets to size.

Ikea cabinets does have an attractive price, but depending on which door style you choose, it can make a great deal into a meh deal.

I did my kitchen with ikea cabinets, the cabinets and countertops without installation cost approx 15k

Imo the quality of cabinets from ikea is as good if not better than most local suppliers and their hardware is better than almost any local cabinet place I’ve dealt with previously. Unless you’re paying top dollar for solid wood cabinets/drawers, it’s all the same shit really.

For comparisons sake we had quotes from a few different places and the cabinets alone from a place like merit kitchens etc. For “solid wood” cabinets were over 30k without installation and frankly this product was 100% not worth double the price of Ikea. Imo the bodbyn grey we ended up going with had higher quality doors and cabinet faces than merit imo.

Also keep in mind dealing with local suppliers is an absolute nightmare when you need new cabinet faces as they are generally special order and it could take months to get a replacement door or drawer.

While ikea is ikea, it’s not really a DIY thing unless you have pretty decent carpentry experience and a full set of tools. Imo you NEED a table saw to do a proper installation.

So in your situation if you feel like the cabinets are still in good shape I’d say just paint and replace hardware, maybe look at some more inexpensive counter top replacements, and live with that for 5-10 years until you can commit to a full gut and replacement

Thanks both for the replies. I think that's probably what I'm leaning towards - either paint or stain darker, replace hardware, and then do something about the countertop/backsplash. I'll look into Metal Supermarket and see how that prices out, I kind of like the look personally.

Part of why I'm leaning away from a more involved remodel is that I suspect in 5-10 years I may want to significantly renovate if not move.

Added bonus with IKEA kitchens is they should be perpetually backward compatible meaning when the kitchen looks dated, just buy new doors/knobs only without the need to replace entire cabinets.

Exactly. Also every single peice you will ever need will always be on hand, break a cabinet, door, hinge, kick, etc. Go buy another one. In and out in 15 minutes

Try doing that with any cabinet company, as I said, you’ll be waiting months

I used Chinese rta cabinets and they were awesome for the price. Actual plywood sides, soft close drawers and doors. I think all cabinets upper and lowers were around 3000 and then 400 for basic counters. Approx 12x12 L shaped kitchen.

Is there a supplier/installer you would recommend?

Found mine from a guy on Facebook in kelowna but if you search shaker white cabinets on Craigslist or Facebook you should find someone

You could just get new doors and hardware.

For counter tops I always see this guys video's. makes it look too easy.

ikea hard ware, get a carpenter to do solidwood fronts

:jizz:

FYI, the corner is gonna suck donkey balls with ikea cabs

I am just guesstimating but prepare to have odd ball gap at the end cabinets that needs to be filled with something if youre' using ikea.