You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our free community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today!
The banners on the left side and below do not show for registered users!
If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact contact us.
Vancouver Off-Topic / Current EventsThe off-topic forum for Vancouver, funnies, non-auto centered discussions, WORK SAFE. While the rules are more relaxed here, there are still rules. Please refer to sticky thread in this forum.
My AFC gave me an ABS CEL code of LOL while at WOT!
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: vancouver
Posts: 3,515
Thanked 1,431 Times in 486 Posts
Failed 243 Times in 94 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by BIC_BAWS
Oh yeah I forgot to add, hardwood chipped, tiles chipped, random drywall mud of the walls and drywall mud on my tiles. How do i remove the drywall mud LOL.
Sent from my SM-G781W using Tapatalk
Water and a sponge or water on paper towel will remove mud.
Hearing news that downtown condos are picking up in toronto / Vancouver. I thought they were still dead. Anyone have first hand experience ? Are you guys seeing prices tick up in downtown as well? Last time I checked they were still below 2018 levels
I bought my house from E.I. builders. I know a few E.I. builders as well. Everything HondaRacer is saying holds true. For the price I paid, unfortunately, I guess I should expect it. Even at over $1M. To echo his experience:
All my exterior/interior doors don't open/close properly. It's worse in the winter. I assume it's cause material contracts when cold vs hot. My garage door you gotta body check to open and slam close. My front door, it's not aligned (?), So you gotta tug on the door to close it. (Would love reccos on how to fix this)
Unless you're willing to pull the trim, square up the frame, and refinish, you could probably plane the doors to clear.
Originally posted by v.b. can we stop, my pussy hurts... Originally posted by asian_XL fliptuner, I am gonna grab ur dick and pee in your face, then rub shit all over my face...:lol Originally posted by Fei-Ji haha i can taste the cum in my mouth Originally posted by FastAnna when I was 13 I wanted to be a video hoe so bad
$200sf for E.I builders, $240-280 for Asians, and $320+ for white builders.
lol, I was so confused the last few posts until this; I was thinking that E.I. builders was a specific building company or construction staff that turned to home building after getting off employment insurance. After viewing a few new-build duplexes in east van, a lot of the E.I. duplexes seem to have the same layout, finishings, and quality.
With a lot of new builds, LED light fixtures are in every room, when the light dies, there isn't a way to "change the bulb" is there? You gotta replace the whole fixture.
Yea but it’s almost as easy as replacing a bulb, not a big deal. LED pot lights will be the future, any fixture that uses bulbs now looks super dated imo
__________________
Dank memes cant melt steel beams
Adding a suite in my detached garage (slab on grade with in floor radiant heating). Can’t find a clear answer as to what is required. Located in okanagan not lower mainland.
One of the duplexes I was in was so bad I was tempted to message the realtor because I felt so bad for the woman who bought it (was in contact with the realtor on a different matter for her)
People like her have no idea that a brand new house shouldn't have drywall mud on the floor or a tile transition shouldn't be chipped etc. Both the builder/developer and the realtors involved are essentially taking advantage of a customers ignorance. You SHOULD NOT be accepting fucking unpainted drywall patches etc. in a brand new home lol, its fucking insane.
Yup, my last house which was new when I bought it had a lot of issues that were annoying.
For example we had them fixed some terrible flashing for the ceiling where the beads were totally fucked at a stairwell opening, they reskimmed it and left it didn't even sand or repaint it had to do it myself. We owned a drywall company at the time wasn't a big deal but the fact is we did buy a brand new house so really shouldn't have to.
They ran a wire connected to a switch for the lights over the sink, they never installed the light didn't find out until a year later. There was always this switch never knew what it did one day I look above cabinets and there is a live wire hooked to that switch.
Electrical was fucked, you'd plug the vacuum in use it for 10 minute touch the prongs when you pulled it out and they were burn you hot.
Light bulbs in almost every light and light fixture would burn out every 6 months because something obviously wasn't wired right so you're constantly changing bulbs waiting for the house to burn down.
They put in a shitty laminate floor that de-lamanted within 6 months of moving in.
The basement door wasn't installed correctly, the frame was mangled and it was constantly stick.
The builder didn't help us at all, I didn't really understand this being in construction my whole life I've only worked for two companies and both were the same, if we have an issue with any of our work we'll always fix it and make it right even if we don't think it's our fault or issue.
I'm so much more happy with my 30 year old house that had a full gut about 4 years ago, it's so much better built.
__________________
“The world ain't all sunshine and rainbows. It's a very mean and nasty place... and I don´t care how tough you are, it will beat you to your knees and keep you there permanently, if you let it. You, me or nobody, is gonna hit as hard as life. But ain't about how hard you hit... It's about how hard you can get hit, and keep moving forward... how much you can take, and keep moving forward. That´s how winning is done. Now, if you know what you worth, go out and get what you worth.” - Rocky Balboa
The issue with EI builders is that their 'company' basically has 1 guy with a license, and hire the rest of their buddy guys straight off the plane to help out with the construction on site. These guys do not have any licenses and they are paying them straight cash.
Yup, my last house which was new when I bought it had a lot of issues that were annoying.
It's a good thing you're in the industry. I'm worried that all those things that you listed could happen to me, because it sounds like my place.
Random light switch that doesn't do anything. Idk what's wrong with my flooring, but I know it's not right. Every plug we pigtailed with copper so we might be ok there.
Might just have to hire fliptuner to fix my sticking doors LOL
Sent from my SM-G781W using Tapatalk
__________________
|| 18 FK8 | R-18692 | Rallye Red | 6 MT ||
|| SOLD 97 E36 M3 Sedan | Arctic Silver | 5MT ||
|| RIP 02 E46 330ci | Schwartz Black II | 5MT | M-Tech II | Black Cube | Shadowline | Stoff Laser/Anthrazit ||
|| RIP 02 E46 M3 | Carbon Black | 6MT ||
lol, I was so confused the last few posts until this; I was thinking that E.I. builders was a specific building company or construction staff that turned to home building after getting off employment insurance. After viewing a few new-build duplexes in east van, a lot of the E.I. duplexes seem to have the same layout, finishings, and quality.
Yea but it’s almost as easy as replacing a bulb, not a big deal. LED pot lights will be the future, any fixture that uses bulbs now looks super dated imo
Yep, retrofit potlights are super easy, pinch hooks & slide in just like a bathroom fan cover. some ppl do complain having to replace fixtures vs bulbs, i tend to tread lightly as they get quite upset at that. for me in electrical that's just product/industry offerings. /shrug
Quote:
Originally Posted by sdubfid
Anyone familiar with building codes and radon?
Adding a suite in my detached garage (slab on grade with in floor radiant heating). Can’t find a clear answer as to what is required. Located in okanagan not lower mainland.
Disclaimer: not an environmental engineer and well in to my long weekend
depending where in the interior you are, special rough-in MAY be required. I can't find okanagan on the list, but if you have a more specific area, take a look on table C-4 if your area is "required".
the short answer is if it's a 'yes' is you'll need to do something on the lines of adding a special ventilation system for increased air flow so you don't get stale air where radon may linger or be released from below grade in to your residential space.
Problem is people think. If I buy new I have nothing to worry about developer will fix it or I have my 2,5, 10 warranty to fall back on which is just as much of a scam as most new builds. I’ve been looking at detached homes in Burke mountain for the past 2 years and shit houses that are built up here are terrible I can’t believe I see sold signs out front.
Unfortunately, most people don’t realize that they should also be looking at the quality of construction when buying a property. They’re just looking at floor plans, layouts, fixtures, finishings, etc. A new house, to most people, looks fantastic, and the assumption is always that it will last longer than the fixer upper next door.
RS.net, where our google ads make absolutely no sense!
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: GVA
Posts: 906
Thanked 337 Times in 123 Posts
Failed 36 Times in 2 Posts
I know this is a little off-topic, but I'm looking for thoughts/opinions on where to go with my new old kitchen. The house is in great shape but it's clear the previous (elderly) owner hasn't updated it since at least the early 70's.
The cabinets are built-on-site (unitized). They're in decent shape (still sturdy) but are a half century old. I'm not on a shoestring budget but am also not ready to spend what I assume would be $25-35K on someone to come remodel it start to finish. More looking to do something to last the next 5-6 years before a more significant remodel.
Some ideas I've thrown around from cheapest to most $$$ and my initial thoughts:
Paint the cabinets (DIY) and replace the countertop/backsplash (DIY w/IKEA) - countertop replacement doesn't look like an easy DIY job due to the construction of the cabinets
Paint the cabinets (DIY) and have someone update the countertop/backsplash - probably re-laminate or cover-over with stainless steel
Demolish current cabinets and install IKEA cabinets - probably will need someone to come in and do the demo as the cabinets don't look like an easy DIY removal; drywall will definitely need patching, etc.
Totally open to opinions. And contractor recommendations.
My AFC gave me an ABS CEL code of LOL while at WOT!
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: vancouver
Posts: 3,515
Thanked 1,431 Times in 486 Posts
Failed 243 Times in 94 Posts
If the cabinets are in good condition then just paint it, cheapest option.
For the countertop just hit up a quartz supplier, they almost always will do installs. Look at their current stock/ off cut section for the best deals.
The stainless steel backsplash you can diy also, find a metal supplier such as metal supermarket and they'll cut your sheets to size.
Ikea cabinets does have an attractive price, but depending on which door style you choose, it can make a great deal into a meh deal.
I did my kitchen with ikea cabinets, the cabinets and countertops without installation cost approx 15k
Imo the quality of cabinets from ikea is as good if not better than most local suppliers and their hardware is better than almost any local cabinet place I’ve dealt with previously. Unless you’re paying top dollar for solid wood cabinets/drawers, it’s all the same shit really.
For comparisons sake we had quotes from a few different places and the cabinets alone from a place like merit kitchens etc. For “solid wood” cabinets were over 30k without installation and frankly this product was 100% not worth double the price of Ikea. Imo the bodbyn grey we ended up going with had higher quality doors and cabinet faces than merit imo.
Also keep in mind dealing with local suppliers is an absolute nightmare when you need new cabinet faces as they are generally special order and it could take months to get a replacement door or drawer.
While ikea is ikea, it’s not really a DIY thing unless you have pretty decent carpentry experience and a full set of tools. Imo you NEED a table saw to do a proper installation.
So in your situation if you feel like the cabinets are still in good shape I’d say just paint and replace hardware, maybe look at some more inexpensive counter top replacements, and live with that for 5-10 years until you can commit to a full gut and replacement
__________________
Dank memes cant melt steel beams
RS.net, where our google ads make absolutely no sense!
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: GVA
Posts: 906
Thanked 337 Times in 123 Posts
Failed 36 Times in 2 Posts
Thanks both for the replies. I think that's probably what I'm leaning towards - either paint or stain darker, replace hardware, and then do something about the countertop/backsplash. I'll look into Metal Supermarket and see how that prices out, I kind of like the look personally.
Part of why I'm leaning away from a more involved remodel is that I suspect in 5-10 years I may want to significantly renovate if not move.
I did my kitchen with ikea cabinets, the cabinets and countertops without installation cost approx 15k
Imo the quality of cabinets from ikea is as good if not better than most local suppliers and their hardware is better than almost any local cabinet place I’ve dealt with previously. Unless you’re paying top dollar for solid wood cabinets/drawers, it’s all the same shit really.
For comparisons sake we had quotes from a few different places and the cabinets alone from a place like merit kitchens etc. For “solid wood” cabinets were over 30k without installation and frankly this product was 100% not worth double the price of Ikea. Imo the bodbyn grey we ended up going with had higher quality doors and cabinet faces than merit imo.
Also keep in mind dealing with local suppliers is an absolute nightmare when you need new cabinet faces as they are generally special order and it could take months to get a replacement door or drawer.
While ikea is ikea, it’s not really a DIY thing unless you have pretty decent carpentry experience and a full set of tools. Imo you NEED a table saw to do a proper installation.
So in your situation if you feel like the cabinets are still in good shape I’d say just paint and replace hardware, maybe look at some more inexpensive counter top replacements, and live with that for 5-10 years until you can commit to a full gut and replacement
Added bonus with IKEA kitchens is they should be perpetually backward compatible meaning when the kitchen looks dated, just buy new doors/knobs only without the need to replace entire cabinets.
__________________
If you drive like an asshole, you probably are one.
Quote:
Originally Posted by MG1
punkwax, I don't care what your friends say about you, you are gold!
Added bonus with IKEA kitchens is they should be perpetually backward compatible meaning when the kitchen looks dated, just buy new doors/knobs only without the need to replace entire cabinets.
Exactly. Also every single peice you will ever need will always be on hand, break a cabinet, door, hinge, kick, etc. Go buy another one. In and out in 15 minutes
Try doing that with any cabinet company, as I said, you’ll be waiting months
__________________
Dank memes cant melt steel beams
I used Chinese rta cabinets and they were awesome for the price. Actual plywood sides, soft close drawers and doors. I think all cabinets upper and lowers were around 3000 and then 400 for basic counters. Approx 12x12 L shaped kitchen.
I used Chinese rta cabinets and they were awesome for the price. Actual plywood sides, soft close drawers and doors. I think all cabinets upper and lowers were around 3000 and then 400 for basic counters. Approx 12x12 L shaped kitchen.
Is there a supplier/installer you would recommend?
ikea hard ware, get a carpenter to do solidwood fronts
Quote:
Originally Posted by carsncars
[*]Demolish current cabinets and install IKEA cabinets - probably will need someone to come in and do the demo as the cabinets don't look like an easy DIY removal; drywall will definitely need patching, etc.[/LIST]
FYI, the corner is gonna suck donkey balls with ikea cabs
I am just guesstimating but prepare to have odd ball gap at the end cabinets that needs to be filled with something if youre' using ikea.
__________________ There's a phallic symbol infront of my car
Quote:
MG1: in fact, a new term needs to make its way into the American dictionary. Trump............ he's such a "Trump" = ultimate insult. Like, "yray, you're such a trump."
bcrdukes yray fucked bcrdukes up the nose
dapperfied yraisis
dapperfied yray so waisis
FastAnna you literally talk out your ass
FastAnna i really cant
FastAnna yray i cant stand you