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Turbo or Rotrex Miata? Hey RS, I currently have a 1.8 NA8C miata, looking into building some boost later down the road. Would like to hear from people who has driven both or own one or the other. I've narrowed it down to the kraftwerks kit with the c30-74 unit or maybe the c30-94 or the flyin'miata FMII/R kit with the gt2560r or gt2860/gt2871 running on the hydra, and what exhaust options would I be looking at? I can run a rb header with the rotrex but would have to run the turbo exhaust mani if I go with the FMII. Some more info: - Will be driving the car in the spring/summer months in the year, it's my second car - I do plan on tracking/autoX 2-3 times during the season - looking for 220-250whp on stock bottom end, will be doing some head work as the project progresses - looking for peak power as well as a responsive usable power band for the track/autox |
V8 swap and im serious. LS1 aluminum engines are very light and supercharging/turbocharging miata isn't that good of a deal considering how much money you spend and power you gain. |
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Unless you ever want to race anything competitively, ever. A Miata with forced induction can be very competitive at autocross if well driven and well prepared, a Miata with an LS1 simply cannot within the classes. |
"looking for 220-250whp on stock bottom end" and you threw in a 350hp monster =.= |
I built a 300whp 1.6l Rotrex'd Miata. Most reliable built car I've ever driven. On and off the track. It saw multiple track days and hill climbs all without a hitch. Not many cars, even ones over 100k could come close to touching it at the track. That being said, go turbo. You're not me, and not many people would be able to get the performance I go out of a 1.6L Miata motor for any cost considered reasonable. |
I don't think timpo knows what hes talking about? Actually when does he ever? LOL I don't think hes looked further into the flyin' Miata website. Some englightment: LS3 engine (6.2L 430hp) $7,595.00, Engine & Mounting kit total $9,286.43 Transmission kit (inclusive of the t56 tranny) $3,357.70 Driveline & differential kit (getrag diff inclusive) $2,579.25 This is not including about 2-3 grand in accessories and bear in mind doing all the work at home, can you imagine shop labour costs Thats a total of 15k, or about 4.5x the cost of my car LOLOLOL |
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That's my old kit. I sold it to him. Making 235whp isn't that difficult, it's the other 65whp that is the hard part. But if you're happy with that, get a C30-74 and run it maxed out with a stand alone ECU. You won't find Austins or my power on a piggy back. |
Not to thread jack, but what would be the total price including car + everything needed for ~220whp? Might be looking at one of these things for a weekend car. |
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If you just want a off the shelf kit with a piggyback for ~200whp they're around $3000-4000. they doesn't require too much expertise but won't have the same kinda power, its amazing how companies are still developing and improving kits for the miata which is almost a 25 year old car now |
^^ It's exactly because of this thread. People are still building them to race. It's such a solid platform that companies can dump money into R&D knowing that what they come out with, will be bought by the enthusiasts. |
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So that makes your costs now only.........8k It would be cool though. |
I bought my MINT 90,000km ls1 for $1000... My swap by the time I got headers, a transmission, clutch, flywheel, bellhousing, driveshaft, electronics, plumbing, rad, etc. cost me around $9k for the swap and that's with doing all the labour in-house... engine is not the expensive part. |
remeber to join the vancouver miata club :p Vancouver Miatas :: Index https://www.facebook.com/groups/VancouverMiatas/ |
lowside67 and BigBadWhitey where did you source your ls1? Yah I don't disagree the engine is not the expensive part, it's really the labour that's expensive |
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