Clutch bleed, pedal stuck to the floor
 

Need help here, I had already bleed my clutch but now my clutch sticked to the floor. Can someone help me please.

I had already try to do the bleeding again but there are always bubble on the draining tube.

Could anyone with the experience help me? Lunch or dinner on me

Brw, my car is 2009 honda civic 5 speed manual
Posted via RS Mobile

Why are you doing the bleed in the first place? Were you doing it yourself? :heckno:

when my clutch on my lude was stuck all the way down it was cus the slave/master cylinder was gone, are you sure yours isnt?

The most effective way Ive ever found for bleeding the clutch on my subaru was cracking the bleeder, filling the master and walking away. Check it every little while and let gravity do the work. Made for a rock hard clutch pedal.

YMMV.

I do that with bleeding my brakes as well. Works wonders, especially if you're working on a car by yourself and there are other things you need to do in the meantime.

check to see if there are any leaks with your master cylinder!

edit: also try just pumping it repetitively after you change drain and fill with new fluid

get a friend, a job best done with 2 persons. rebleed the whole system over and you should be fine, clutches are easier than brakes
Posted via RS Mobile

This is how I did yesterday (2 people method):

friend step on the clutch and I open the bleeder, I close the bleeder and friend pull up the clutch pedal. I did this for a few times but this is what happens http://img441.imageshack.us/img441/9...3424968573.jpg.

I heard that some people did it by loosen the bleeder screw, step clutch, close bleeder, pull u clutch pedal. I don't know which one is the most suitable way for my civic clutch.

A bit of update, I just got inside and tried out my clutch. Surprisingly my clutch has back to normal again but its just feel softer than usual.

I'm wondering does that means some of the air has escaped?

Never open up a bleeder screw without pressure already being applied on the pedal. By doing so you run the risk of introducing more air into the system. Also, make sure you only spin the bleeder a quarter turn or so and don't leave it open for any longer than necessary. Let the liquid shoot out and close it asap. (insert dirty pun here)

As for air escaping after the fact, that shouldn't happen. The bubbles may have simply somehow shifted elsewhere in the line but even then that wouldn't really stiffen up the clutch.

You still haven't answered, why you're bleeding it in the first place.

Did the pedal hit the floor and stay there?
Was there a leak?
Did you just feel like bleeding it?
Did the master, slave or a line fail?

Your diagram looks fine, doesn't matter if there's bubbles later in the tube as long as it's not straight out of the bleeder... This may be an obviously stupid question, but you're topping up your master and slave cylinders as you're bleeding right?