REVscene - Vancouver Automotive Forum

LiquidTurbo · 09-12-2013, 09:20 PM

I got the dreaded SRS Light on, turns out it's the driver seatbelt sensor, dealer says its $450 to fix.

Anyone have any alternatives? In the states, it's fixed free under a lifetime seatbelt warranty.

dn53 · 10-05-2013, 09:48 PM

went to the wrecker bought a used buckle for 70 dollars.. just make sure the car you pull it from wasnt in a considerable sized wreck LOL

this was when i was working at the dealer too.. the part i believe was somewhere between 150-200 my cost

d1 · 10-05-2013, 11:10 PM

Any negatives to just leaving it?

oldsnail · 10-08-2013, 08:07 PM

you can try resetting the srs light to see if it comes up again.
you will need to open the fuse box under the steering rack, and close the circuit when the light turns on.

pingu81 · 10-08-2013, 08:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by d1

Any negatives to just leaving it?

The entire SRS system will be disabled if the light is on.

TypeRNammer · 10-08-2013, 08:57 PM

Try buckling up prior to starting the car.

Common annoyance with Acuras.

Midnight R · 10-17-2013, 12:56 PM

I had the same issue recently, if yours is the same, the SRS should be throwing you the 9-3 code. If you buckle and unbuckle your seat belt and the seat belt light stays off once in a while you know for sure the buckle sensor is dirty.

I did a simple DIY fix that might solve your problem.

First, you need to obtain a t10 torx security bit (the torx bit with the centre removed). Princess Auto has a complete set of security bit for 3.99 on sale atm. Second you will need some electrical contact cleaner, aslo on sale Princess Auto atm (sale ends Oct. 20). Third you will need small precision scissors or a hobby knife. An air compressor or a can of compressed air is handy as well but not required. Once you have these three items you can start the DIY.

1. Use the t10 Torx security bit to remove the 2 screws on the seat belt buckle. If you are leaning in from the driver's side facing the passenger side you should see the 2 screws near the bottom of the buckle. The buckle exterior is comprised of 2 pieces, the first piece comes right off, the second piece slides up to be removed. Be careful when sliding the second piece out as you do not want to accidentally disassemble the buckle release (a PITA to reassemble, as I've been told).

2. Once the insides are exposed, you should be able to locate the actual switch on the left side of the unit. The switch is comprised of a small metal flap that is pushed down when the seatbelt is inserted. When this flap is pushed down it activates the switch. This switch gets dirty and throws the error code. This is where the air compressor or compressed air comes in handy. Blow the air onto the insides and remove as much dust as possible. Use your lungs if you don't a compressor or compressed air.

3. The little switch that gets pushed down by the metal flap has a rubber boot around it to help keep dust out of the inside of the switch. Use the precision scissors or hobby knife to cut the boot slightly but do not completely remove the boot. Make a cut big enough so the spray from the contact cleaner straw can get in. Be extra careful here, you don't what to damage the switch here, just cut the little boot.

4. Spray the contact cleaner using the straw (little red straw comes with cleaner) into the cut you just made and push metal flap 5-10 times. repeat 5-10 times.

5. Reset the SRS light.

6. If it worked, the SRS light will stay off and you can enjoy your dash again. If the light comes back on after a second or two the cleaning was unsuccessful. Try again or time for a new buckle. If the light comes back on in the future redo the process. Once confirmed working (or not) reassemble buckle. Remember to take extra care around the red buckle release.

Let me know if you need pictures. You shouldn't but if it helps, I can.

DISCLAIMER
By reading this DIY you assume all risks associated with using the DIY, with a full understanding that you, solely, are responsible for anything that may occur as a result of putting this information into action in any way, and regardless of your interpretation of the advice

Puck Luck · 10-18-2013, 12:21 AM

Very interesting. Never thought about taking it apart for a cleaning.
But regarding step 5 and 6. When ever i initially go and check the DTC for srs, 90% of the times its under temporary dtc, not permanent. Meaning, the code was tripped at one point earlier and is currently not being tripped and working ok at the moment. I usually reset the light and send the customer on his way and let him know that he will need a new seatbelt buckle. It could be days or weeks or sometimes months before the light comes back on again. And that was just resetting the light without any attempt of cleaning.

Midnight R · 10-18-2013, 12:32 AM

My buckle was constantly throwing the 9-3. As soon as I reset the light it would trip in about 2 seconds. Cleaning the switch will prolong the frequency, how long is anyone's guess but it has so far helped revive my dead switch. Good point though, if your SRS light is not on like mine was you dont need to reset the light. Beats shelling out money for a new buckle. $10 for tools that you can reuse.
Posted via RS Mobile

Puck Luck · 10-18-2013, 07:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Puck Luck

90% of the times its under temporary dtc, not permanent.

ok...maybe 80% of the time

GLOW · 10-18-2013, 08:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TypeRNammer

Try buckling up prior to starting the car.

Common annoyance with Acuras.

noticed this worked for me too. i eventually my mechanic replace the unit. off the top of my head i think it was around $250 with part included. it only took him like half an hour worth of labour or so.

find a private mechanic i'm sure it'll be cheaper than $450 from the dealer