REVscene - Vancouver Automotive Forum

doritos · 10-08-2013, 01:46 AM

had my tranny rebuilt 2 years or so ago, now there is a rattling under the car when im driving over bumps and there's a loud cranking sound when i shift into reverse which is the loudest and slightly vibrating sound when in neutral or park. The transmission is running smoothly, though. I'm guessing if it is tranny related my car wouldn't be moving right? I know my right axle is warped or a little bent, could that be causing rattling and vibration near tranny whenever I shift? or going over bumpy areas?

I went to three different mechanics, they don't know what the hell to diagnose and said possibly axle. One said could be inside transmission but not sure since transmission feels smooth. The sound is very annoying and creepy haha.

Purely · 10-08-2013, 01:49 AM

Did you ever do any maintenance on your original/new transmission? like the ATF drain and refills? And if you don't ask me asking, how many kms when your first tranny failed?

doritos · 10-08-2013, 02:05 AM

yeah I did transmission fluid drain and refill on my old one. I believe it was around 105k kms when it failed. Actually between 140k-180k km. The 3rd gear in 03-05 v6 models I believe were bad. My 3rd gear would Always slip.

i-vtecyo · 10-08-2013, 02:13 AM

im guessing that most likely the rebuild warranty is over..

so it only rattles when u drive over bumps and not flat road? any specific gears when it rattles?? probably somewhere along the cv joints to axles would be my guess
but if u believe its the transmission, on ur next tranny flush, pull the pan out and see if theres anything loose inside the transmission..

doritos · 10-08-2013, 02:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by i-vtecyo

im guessing that most likely the rebuild warranty is over..

so it only rattles when u drive over bumps and not flat road? any specific gears when it rattles?? probably somewhere along the cv joints to axles would be my guess
but if u believe its the transmission, on ur next tranny flush, pull the pan out and see if theres anything loose inside the transmission..

yeah, it rattles only when going over uneven surfaces or bumps. All the gears seem fine. There's a strong jutter when I put into reverse and then u hear a loud rattle but I am thinking its because the tranmission slightly moves when in gear and maybe something attached to it? How do you pull the pan out anyway? could cv joints and axles be causing the sound? are they anywhere near or attached through the transmissoin? My car is at 220k km though, and has never had those parts replaced before.

i-vtecyo · 10-08-2013, 02:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by doritos

yeah, it rattles only when going over uneven surfaces or bumps. All the gears seem fine. There's a strong jutter when I put into reverse and then u hear a loud rattle but I am thinking its because the tranmission slightly moves when in gear and maybe something attached to it? How do you pull the pan out anyway? could cv joints and axles be causing the sound? are they anywhere near or attached through the transmissoin? My car is at 220k km though, and has never had those parts replaced before.

so when u put it in reverse, do u hear a more pronounced rattle?? put it up in the hoist, drive thru the gears and then after shift into reverse to find out where the rattle is coming from by listening to the transmission housing. I havent worked on any 7th gen accords before so im not sure what the transmission is like. judging from a quick image search you wont be able to pull it off. As for the transmission attachments, the axles/cv shafts are directly attached to the tranny along with cv joints. Most common failure noise for CV/axle shafts would be a clicking sound every time u accelerate uphill or flat surface and CV joints would also be a click/clunk sound when you are turning. however you did mention that one shaft was bent so it could be related to the rattle. They usually dont require replacment for a long period of time unless your car is lowered which puts a bit more strain on the axles and joint.when the cv boot rips, water gets in, grease gets out and then you'll hear noises while turning depending on which side went.

Iceman-19 · 10-08-2013, 03:09 AM

I dont think you have ever looked at a CV axle, because they dont exactly just bend.....try taking it to a better shop, because that sounds like it shouldnt be that difficult to diagnose.

doritos · 10-08-2013, 04:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by i-vtecyo

so when u put it in reverse, do u hear a more pronounced rattle?? put it up in the hoist, drive thru the gears and then after shift into reverse to find out where the rattle is coming from by listening to the transmission housing. I havent worked on any 7th gen accords before so im not sure what the transmission is like. judging from a quick image search you wont be able to pull it off. As for the transmission attachments, the axles/cv shafts are directly attached to the tranny along with cv joints. Most common failure noise for CV/axle shafts would be a clicking sound every time u accelerate uphill or flat surface and CV joints would also be a click/clunk sound when you are turning. however you did mention that one shaft was bent so it could be related to the rattle. They usually dont require replacment for a long period of time unless your car is lowered which puts a bit more strain on the axles and joint.when the cv boot rips, water gets in, grease gets out and then you'll hear noises while turning depending on which side went.

is there an easier way I can do this at home myself instead of bringing to shop? you guys know where to buy a cheap jack for lowered vehicles? my car is lowered btw. I can't keep bringing to diff shop, they keep offering to install this and that and i'll just have to keep on replacing for nothing. I am too poor!

doritos · 10-08-2013, 04:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Iceman-19

I dont think you have ever looked at a CV axle, because they dont exactly just bend.....try taking it to a better shop, because that sounds like it shouldnt be that difficult to diagnose.

hmm I just guessed its broken because thats what one of the mechanics said for my passenger side axle. I have no idea what it looks like. the difficult part is that, the sound is not noticeable outside of the car, because the engine noise takes over. I can only hear it inside when windows are closed. Its gotten louder the last 2 weeks and today is a little more quiet.

inv4zn · 10-08-2013, 11:42 AM

Engine mounts? Would explain vibration/noise when shifting to/from reverse.

Suspension parts/axles, would produce symptoms whenever it's being driven.

You don't need a low-profile jack, just get some wood to (safely) drive up, and raise it that way. But honestly, a jack raises your car, what 12 inches? You're not going to be able to see anything.

I took my car to the speed syndicate to get it diagnosed for an oil leak, and it wasn't expensive at all.

doritos · 10-09-2013, 02:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by inv4zn

Engine mounts? Would explain vibration/noise when shifting to/from reverse.

Suspension parts/axles, would produce symptoms whenever it's being driven.

You don't need a low-profile jack, just get some wood to (safely) drive up, and raise it that way. But honestly, a jack raises your car, what 12 inches? You're not going to be able to see anything.

I took my car to the speed syndicate to get it diagnosed for an oil leak, and it wasn't expensive at all.

how much was it for you to get diagnosed? Honestly, if I take to another shop, I will get a different answer and not know which one is the real problem that I need repaired. My engine mounts were replaced weeks ago and they are fine. I have a feel it it might have been because I was driving on broken mounts during that time which the engine could have raised when accelerating hard and hitting other things below it?

inv4zn · 10-09-2013, 10:42 AM

If your engine mounts are/were worn to the point where the engine was physically hitting things, you'd have a lot more trouble then what you're describing.

Speed Syndicate charge $95 per hour, with a minimum $47 "lift fee". However, they were nice and didn't charge me the minimum. I don't want to reveal exact price, but just bring it in.

I'm facing a $800 repair and am putting it off, so I know what it feels like to be on a budget, but mine isn't critical or unsafe. I would at least pay to get it diagnosed properly so you can determine for yourself whether it's urgent or not, rather than guessing and then kicking yourself later down the road.