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Keep in mind if you do your rear brakes, you'll need either a pair of good needle nose pliers or a specialty tool in order to spin the pistons back. DO NOT USE A CLAMP TO PUSH THEM BACK IN.
or
I use Option B but the pliers will work just as well.
The fronts don't need to be spun, so you can just clamp them back. However, those tiny as screws in the rotor do tend to have a habit of rusting in place, so as UnName said, use an impact driver. Ask me what happens when you don't.
I didn't do any hard driving in my 7g Accord so I stuck with either whatever Lordco or Wakefield had on sale at the time, or if I had some time before having my brakes done, I'd order the Wagner units from Rockauto.
I'm not talking about big brake kits, but last time I checked, Brembo actually sells OEM replacement rotors
Brembo blanks. Rockauto usually stocks 'em for most cars.
IMO, there's no real difference between most rotors on a daily driver. I'd go with blanks instead of cross-drilled, but that's about it. Brand-wise, I haven't noticed a need to go with "higher performance" rotors. If they seem to be wearing out faster than usual, chances are it's due to calipers sticking more than anything else.
Pads on the other hand...
That reminds me, when you have your brakes apart, check the sliders on the caliper mount to make sure none of them are grinding or binding up.
I'll have to order from rockauto.com. Com then. The products look promising! So you recommend Wagner rotors? What would be good in the high performance section for rotors and brake pads. I can mix and match pads and rotors right? This may be dumb question but how do I place orders and ship to Blaine? I have no experience having done that before. Posted via RS Mobile
yea you can mix and match
for rotors I usually just buy something that has a little heart next to it(Customer fav)-- can usually get a very good quality rotor for $20-$30 each.
centric rotors are good because the center part is painted so it wont rust over time -- I have them on my jeep -- I'd rate em as a notch above OEM. I installed em a year ago and I feel like they've actually improved over time (or maybe it's just me?) -- they feel perfect now, 8 months after I installed em lol.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lomac
Keep in mind if you do your rear brakes, you'll need either a pair of good needle nose pliers or a specialty tool in order to spin the pistons back. DO NOT USE A CLAMP TO PUSH THEM BACK IN.
or
I use Option B but the pliers will work just as well.
The fronts don't need to be spun, so you can just clamp them back. However, those tiny as screws in the rotor do tend to have a habit of rusting in place, so as UnName said, use an impact driver. Ask me what happens when you don't.
I didn't do any hard driving in my 7g Accord so I stuck with either whatever Lordco or Wakefield had on sale at the time, or if I had some time before having my brakes done, I'd order the Wagner units from Rockauto.
what tools and precautions must i take into account when doing my brakes for first time? they look fairly easy, I just need to know i need to purchase the c-clamps, brake paste whatever they are used for? as well as impact driver. How would i hang the calipers when i unbolt them? thanks for info guys, first timer for brake job =D don't wanna spend 600$ for all around brake job at a shop
The calipers after you undo them, I usually just hang them off the coil springs with a coat hanger or a zip tie -- just wanna make sure you dont put too much force on the brake lines
The brake pads will come with new metal hardware (little clips that hold the brake pads in place) so make sure you use the new ones.
I think what lomac is talking about is the pistons on the caliper -- you want to push them in all the way after you get them off so that you can install your new pads. Usually all you do is take an old brake pad + a C clamp and push the piston in using the old brake pad to level out the force but I guess on the rear of the accord its a little diff (I havent replaced rear brake pads.....yet lol).
should also get a good can of brake cleaner -- you'll need it to get all the brake dust off (not a must .. but I'm kinda OCD)
For basic economy pads and rotors for DD economy cars, I recommend Lomandi off cragslist. The guy delivers to your door and is super friendly and helpful. The product isn't anything spectacular than basic economy brands, but I've used them twice (and currently) and have had no issues.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skyxx
Sonick is a genius. I won't go into detail what's so great about his post. But it's damn good!
2010 Toyota Rav4 Limited V6 - Wifey's Daily Driver
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what tools and precautions must i take into account when doing my brakes for first time? they look fairly easy, I just need to know i need to purchase the c-clamps, brake paste whatever they are used for? as well as impact driver. How would i hang the calipers when i unbolt them? thanks for info guys, first timer for brake job =D don't wanna spend 600$ for all around brake job at a shop
You don't need a impact driver if u don't have one, it's not really necessary for a brake job. Posted via RS Mobile
Sonick is a genius. I won't go into detail what's so great about his post. But it's damn good!
2010 Toyota Rav4 Limited V6 - Wifey's Daily Driver
2009 BMW 128i - Daily Driver
2007 Toyota Rav4 Sport V6 - Sold
1999 Mazda Miata - Sold
2003 Mazda Protege5 - Sold
1987 BMW 325is - Sold
1990 Mazda Miata - Sold
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dhillon09
The calipers after you undo them, I usually just hang them off the coil springs with a coat hanger or a zip tie -- just wanna make sure you dont put too much force on the brake lines
The brake pads will come with new metal hardware (little clips that hold the brake pads in place) so make sure you use the new ones.
I think what lomac is talking about is the pistons on the caliper -- you want to push them in all the way after you get them off so that you can install your new pads. Usually all you do is take an old brake pad + a C clamp and push the piston in using the old brake pad to level out the force but I guess on the rear of the accord its a little diff (I havent replaced rear brake pads.....yet lol).
should also get a good can of brake cleaner -- you'll need it to get all the brake dust off (not a must .. but I'm kinda OCD)
am i supposed to spray the calipers or just for everything with the brake cleaner? I was going to drive to O-reily's in bellingham unless rockauto delivers pretty fast
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theres a few different Wagner thermoquiet at rockauto.com but all pretty much look the same, which one is the best? or do they all perform the same with the different pricing? also, theres category for accord 3.0L SOHC or 3.0L DOHC. Two honda dealerships told me my vehicle is DOHC but when i click into that category, there are almost no performance parts except electrical stuff.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dhillon09
yea you can mix and match
for rotors I usually just buy something that has a little heart next to it(Customer fav)-- can usually get a very good quality rotor for $20-$30 each.
centric rotors are good because the center part is painted so it wont rust over time -- I have them on my jeep -- I'd rate em as a notch above OEM. I installed em a year ago and I feel like they've actually improved over time (or maybe it's just me?) -- they feel perfect now, 8 months after I installed em lol.
does it really matter which size rotors I buy from the suggested items that are shown compatible with my car?
yes the size matters because your caliper bracket is ment for a specific size rotor, and your brake pads are ment to cover a certain amount of the rotor.
i use powerslot and hawk hps..excellent stopping power
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bensta
yes the size matters because your caliper bracket is ment for a specific size rotor, and your brake pads are ment to cover a certain amount of the rotor.
i use powerslot and hawk hps..excellent stopping power
hmm, on the website rockauto.com I chose to purchase the wagner thermo quiet pads made in japan and i chose the brembo replacement rotors. Will that be fine fitment? they are in the section for accord v6
Blanks are pretty good but make sure you buy a good pad to pair up with it. If E46, try Akebono pads. They are pretty damn awesome. A bit more expensive than your typical aftermarket brands such as Pagid etc. but worth it. I think The Speed Syndicate had a sale on them a while ago. If your car has not had a brake fluid flush, make sure you do that as well to maximize your purchase!
Brembo blanks are decent, but as dukes said, you need a good set of pads to help maximize their capability. Last time I ran Brembo's, I had a set of Hawk HP Plus grabbing the rotor. Those pads dusted like nothing I've ever used before, but the combination of the two were fantastic. As also mentioned, do a good fluid flush. One of the easiest and cheapest things you can do to a car, with potentially a great return.
I like the Akebono + Brembo blank combination mostly for the modulation capability most pads don't offer unless you start spending big bucks. It will really bite if you want it to, unlike Hawk HPs, which just bite initially but fade shortly after.
Edit: I should add that I had some run of the mill Pagid or whatever blanks and they dust like crazy using I think what were also regular daily driver Pagid pads. Felt like it had the braking capability of a 1986 Toyota Tercel.
You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our free community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today!
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