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2007 is still the pre-facelifted NC1. The engine could have come from a newer car, but then I think you'd still need to bring the new ECU along as well for it to function like an NC2 engine.
The car looks to be in good shape, and seems to be well-maintained. With the leather and the key card thingy, this should be a GT trim car. It may or may not have the factory LSD, but with well over 200k km on the body, even if it came with the LSD, it may operate like an open diff by now because of the wear.
As nice as it looks, I wouldn't pay anything more than $8k for it. And even then I'm being generous.
Peeling clear coat 2002 Turbo RSX Type S for $2500
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Why is it so cheap- well the amount of work done to it makes it hard to work on, YOURE a car guy perfect should be the right car for you. Car is tuned on 94 so you can ONLY put 94 in it from chevron. Is it perfect no, could it be good build for someone wanting to make it faster? I suppose. That’s the reason
Best price- $2500
Reason for selling -is I got no space, no time to drive it, just put in a new water pump. And just doesn’t suite my needs at the moment
seems like a good deal, don’t know how shady the dealership is though
The CarFax lists two accidents, one for a grand and one with no dollar figure, which I assume means someone fixed it without a claim since it looks undamaged. That one I'd want more info on if possible.
__________________ 1991 Toyota Celica GTFour RC // 2007 Toyota Rav4 V6 // 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee
1992 Toyota Celica GT-S ["sold"] \\ 2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee CRD [sold] \\ 2000 Jeep Cherokee [sold] \\ 1997 Honda Prelude [sold] \\ 1992 Jeep YJ [sold/crashed] \\ 1987 Mazda RX-7 [sold] \\ 1987 Toyota Celica GT-S [crushed]
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Originally Posted by maksimizer
half those dudes are hotter than ,my GF.
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Originally Posted by RevYouUp
reading this thread is like waiting for goku to charge up a spirit bomb in dragon ball z
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Originally Posted by Good_KarMa
OH thank god. I thought u had sex with my wife. :cry:
2007 is still the pre-facelifted NC1. The engine could have come from a newer car, but then I think you'd still need to bring the new ECU along as well for it to function like an NC2 engine.
The car looks to be in good shape, and seems to be well-maintained. With the leather and the key card thingy, this should be a GT trim car. It may or may not have the factory LSD, but with well over 200k km on the body, even if it came with the LSD, it may operate like an open diff by now because of the wear.
As nice as it looks, I wouldn't pay anything more than $8k for it. And even then I'm being generous.
I agree. The going rate for a clean NC1 with 100k kms or less is around 10 or 11, so this is not a great deal (unless if you really want to get into an NC and you have a strict sub 10k budget). I would pick an NC2 if I could, but they are a lot harder to find. I'm currently looking for a PRHT NC2 myself.
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Originally Posted by trollface
Yes, I was a little surprised at what BAT dos behind the scene until someone locally listed a car and told me about it. Nasty
Or you meet some girl at the club, cum inside of her, find out shes only in grade 12, so you buy a Prada bag for her to make things right, she finds out the bag is a fake and decides to have the kid
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Originally Posted by RX_Renesis
wtf did she get some bolt-on titties or what?
they look sooooooooooo much bigger than they were 2ish years ago.
Quote:
Originally Posted by nns
I can't stand the sound of Mandarin either. Boo yow nee bey nee shing bo now noong gey shee mayo mayo mayo mayo mayo mayo mayo.
They missed the opportunity to do a 2.5 swap on that nc Miata
You know, I've always wondered how the 2.5 Duratec's would affect the character of the car. They do make more HP, but would it be at the expense of a lower redline and less free revving engine?
You know, I've always wondered how the 2.5 Duratec's would affect the character of the car. They do make more HP, but would it be at the expense of a lower redline and less free revving engine?
My understanding on the 2.5L swap is -- the character you get out of the car / engine is directly proportional to how much $$$ you spend on building up that new 2.5L engine. If you cheap out and do nothing more than a direct swap, you'll get a lot more low end grunt and some mid range torque, but then the engine falls flat on its face once you get into the high rpms. Spend the money to at least get a more aggressive cam, and match it with some larger diameter exhaust plumbing, and you'll get some decent gains in the 170+ whp range where the engine pulls strong across the rev range, with no real change to the character of the car, other than having a lot more power and torque. Spend even more $$$ to do a high CR build, and you'll get close to the 200 whp range.
You can also turbo a 2.5L, and then it'd get really interesting.
You guys are correct, not sure why I thought it was a 2011, reading comprehension fail on my part!
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Originally Posted by jaaagman
I agree. The going rate for a clean NC1 with 100k kms or less is around 10 or 11, so this is not a great deal (unless if you really want to get into an NC and you have a strict sub 10k budget). I would pick an NC2 if I could, but they are a lot harder to find. I'm currently looking for a PRHT NC2 myself.
You know, I've always wondered how the 2.5 Duratec's would affect the character of the car. They do make more HP, but would it be at the expense of a lower redline and less free revving engine?
Granted I owned a SVT Contour so it was a slightly hopped up version of the engine... but 7,000RPM redline doesn't seem restrictive at all! It's a freaking great sounding engine too.
Granted I owned a SVT Contour so it was a slightly hopped up version of the engine... but 7,000RPM redline doesn't seem restrictive at all! It's a freaking great sounding engine too.
Different Duratec, you're talking the v6, we're talking the four cylinder MZR engine.
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