Do you have corroboration for that? I don't think so... I mean the form itself says you have 10 days to present it from the point of sale.

Once you've signed and dated the APV9T and handed over the signed bottom portion of the registration it's not your car anymore.

In your case, yah you let the guy keep it insured with your plates on it and drove it away that's risky for you... but if you sold it and removed your plates, it's not your fault if the other person doesn't actually change title. Initially if an incident occurred you'd be taking some heat, but if it came down to proving anything in court you wouldn't be responsible anymore.

https://vancouver.craigslist.org/van...482826257.html

Maybe? Lol

Did you mean to post that in the Fails thread? I think that's where it was last time.

If body is good engines must be prevalent no?

Blown motor and maaco paint job. Someone making a drift car maybe it’s relevant. Otherwise nahhhhh

From drive smart BC

https://www.drivesmartbc.ca/miscellaneous/seller-beware

"We strongly recommend going together with the buyer to ensure that the registration transfer is processed in a timely manner and that your name and any insurance and licence products are removed from the vehicle registration record. This is important in avoiding any possible liability claims associated with the future operation of the vehicle by the purchaser"

most insurances places i know wont even process the transfer until both parties are present and w/ matching ID's.

I’ve never encountered a broker that requires both parties to be there. Never even remotely questioned. Not sure where you’re going or how often you do car deals, but I’d say your sample group might be too small.

To further that - if I did run into a broker that refused to do what I know that absolutely can do, I'd happily walk out and never use them again.

The brokers don't make the rules - they should consider themselves lucky to be getting a piece of the pie.

Let’s say buyer pays cash to seller then take the car. How would the buyer drive the car away without insurance?

As the seller, can I simply remove the plate and bring that to my broker to cancel my insurance? What documentation do I need to prove that I’m no longer the car owner?

I have sold 3 cars in my life. Buyers always went to the Autoplan with me. Same when I buy used cars. Seller and I sit down together at the Autoplan.

It was mentioned earlier, they may elect to throw their own plate on (not legit unless they also sold their car within the last 10 days) and drive at their own risk or tow the vehicle. Most likely the former. They could also take the paperwork and go swap registration and get a plate or temp permit.

When you turn your plates in, you must also bring the top portion of the first page of your registration papers or you’ll be charged a documentation reprint fee… the bottom tear away portion would have been signed and given to the buyer but you need to retain the top 2/3rds. You may also not want to do this for 10 days as Producer mentioned if you’re buying another car. They will ask why you are cancelling and will put a comment in saying Vehicle Sold but it’s not required. If you’re really concerned about ownership chain, I would do up a simple bill of sale with a time and date field signed by yourself and the buyer.

ICBC cares very little about this side of things — EG: I’ve sold a few cars to the USA which does not require an APV9T transfer form, and you cannot even get an autoplan agent to take any paperwork for it… so somewhere in ICBC’s giant database they probably still show me as the registered owner of those vehicles even though they’re no longer in the country anymore and, in some cases, haven’t been for nearly 10 years now.

I’ve also attended at the same time as the other party as a buyer or seller, but it depends on the nature of the transaction, haven’t always gone as a seller and have not always gone with the seller as a buyer.

you're right. Ive only sold like 3 cars in my life but they've all requested that both parties be present. Same with my buddy's is300. They asked for the owners IDs. Seems like a safe policy to adhere to.

p.s. i did have beef with the insurance place's request that we HAVE TO PUT ON THE SALE price of the car instead of their fair market value price. If my buddy said he paid 100k for this IS300, government would have no issues charging him taxes on that 100k. But the fair market value (according to the insurance guy's system) is only 4.5k. So the owner and my buddy agreed to put on 5k for the sale price of the car instead of 17k. Government has no problem with you overpaying, just when you underdeclared then they get all uppity and force people to pay the fair market value.

You’re not going to be happy with the new system coming in, they won’t even ask you how much you paid and just charge you based on an average selling price for that vehicle. Even if you paid less, you still pay tax on a higher amount. The amount you are quoting currently is not fair market value by the way, it’s the lowest possible price they allow for that vehicle before saying you must declare why the price is so low.

You’re lucky the agent even told you where the line was, it’s hard to find an agent that will divulge it anymore.

Not sure why they asked for the sellers ID though, totally unnecessary.

I always overpay for my cars so I’m good.

Tax on used cars is the biggest scam on earth.

Property transfer tax on a home where you’re the occupant is up there too. Flips should be 90% tax and primary residence should be zero

WHY IS EVERYONE SCAMMING ME

I’ve got a bridge for sale if you’d like to live under it :troll:

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace...4-e3cc1c0f35f8

1999 Mitsubishi eclipse
$4,000

https://scontent.fyvr4-1.fna.fbcdn.n...Kg&oe=6297B107

Does it come with an NFT of the bridge and the corisponding token?

Thank you that’s very helpful. It’s quite impressive how Carfax can track these things but with all these nuances it also cannot be trusted 100%.

Sold already. Who here picked it up?

Brian Spilner

Just gotta spend another 10K to make it a 10 second car.

Better watch out for danger to manifold:lawl:

CarFax or ICBC Check are good screeners but shouldn't be taken as gospel... ICBC one only really works if it's been in BC it's whole life.

They definitely do not capture everything though, especially in Canada CarFax isn't so good... and nobody can prevent people who don't go through insurance and fix their cars on their own.

My Dad's 95 MR2 I recently sold had a big claim from someone using a BB gun to shoot out the tail lights and back window, etc... went through ICBC for it... it was NOT on the CarFax anywhere when I ran it prior to selling since every American asks for it. I also have receipts from when it was in Texas and had a front end repaint (the previous owner was a DJ and told me a girl's BF got mad and vandalized his car) but that was also not on the CarFax because he didn't go through insurance for it.

TLDR: there's no such thing as a sure thing haha