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REVscene MotorsportsRS Motorsports by The Speed Syndicate RS Race Team
Pitt Meadows & Mission Raceway. Organize Race Pre-meets, post Racing related event Pics and discussion. In collaboration with The Speed Syndicate, Official race events presenter. [Solicitation of Professional Racing Events Allowed]
this is a built example, no lsd, but a very good build. high mileage won't matter if you're tracking it. Looks like everything is refreshed too.
FG2s are known to have electrical problems.
Quote:
Originally Posted by twitchyzero
e82 128i any reliable? could use more power for its weight?
With the above criteria, any BMW won't qualify. Cooling systems on those, like many BMWs, always need a watchful eye. For peace of mind, you would probably do a full overhaul on it. I've also heard the 1 series calipers to be "notoriously" fragile.
what's the best beater for beginners for casual track duty only? not looking for unique/rare examples if possible
1. only changing tires/pads/fluid
2. na
3. forgiving (FF/FR with LSD)
4. reliable/easy to work on
5. no open wheel, no open top
stiff/lightweight/'raw' out of the box is ideal?
not buying someone else's built example
c5, fg2 si, brz, _________, _________
1) the answer is always Miata -- any generation
2) EK Civic
3) FG2 / FA5 Civic
4) FRS / BRZ -- but not the 2013 cars
I'd actually shy away from Corvettes even though they are cheap and fast. The "problem" is, their consumables get expensive because of the sheer power and speed that the car is capable of.
If you want to keep it cheap and reliable, the key is to keep the car as close to stock as you can other than suspension, wheels, and tires. And this is where the old NA/NB Miata and EK Civic really, really shines. 15" wheels and tires and brake parts are dirt cheap in those sizes.
Not same exact session. I'm not sure what you're looking for, but this was novice group. Only footage left, seems like everyone's dash cam stopped working in the heat.
Shameless plug, but I am selling my 128i which would be a pretty great HPDE car with the mods I have on it. It has a $$$ custom LSD, great suspension, and race bucket seats.
this is a built example, no lsd, but a very good build. high mileage won't matter if you're tracking it. Looks like everything is refreshed too.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Traum
If you want to keep it cheap and reliable, the key is to keep the car as close to stock as you can other than suspension, wheels, and tires. And this is where the old NA/NB Miata and EK Civic really, really shines. 15" wheels and tires and brake parts are dirt cheap in those sizes.
already have a base rsx i'm likely keeping around for the winter
the other 3 seasons I have a new miata hardtop
ideally getting a jdm dc2 ITR, keep it stock for hpde/lapping days but i'm just trying to be open to see what else is out there (maybe something newer)
Quote:
Originally Posted by lowside67
Shameless plug, but I am selling my 128i which would be a pretty great HPDE car with the mods I have on it. It has a $$$ custom LSD, great suspension, and race bucket seats.
does it eat through tires quickly at hpde? clean glws
already have a base rsx i'm likely keeping around for the winter
the other 3 seasons I have a new miata hardtop
Assuming they have manual trannies, both of these cars will fit the bill perfectly as a casual track car that' won't be too expensive on consumables or have reliability issues. So why not just stick with them?
miata has a lot of body roll that I love in the mountains and I want it keep it fun and not so serious
and rf wont clear a roll bar
just paid it off and would be devastated if I crashed it without insurance
base rsx not hi-revving and no lsd
I want to separate it from something that i'll daily....louder/aggressive/stiff but still stock
Shameless plug, but I am selling my 128i which would be a pretty great HPDE car with the mods I have on it. It has a $$$ custom LSD, great suspension, and race bucket seats.
does it eat through tires quickly at hpde? clean glws
I have never done a track day with it, but with the amount of camber it has and the 50-50 weight distribution, it wears tires super evenly at autocross and I have no reason to think it would be any different at a higher speed event. The car weighs 2980lbs right now which is a bit lighter than an E36 M3 - it should basically be exactly the same on consumables.
-Mark
__________________ I'm old now - boring street cars and sweet race cars.
I compared my videos: Ridge vs Mission. I see what you guys mean by it seems like I was "floating" in the middle of the track at Ridge and that I'm pinching. So one of the things I focused on at Mission was to make sure I didn't pinch or use more of the track.
It was a conscious/active decision every time to make sure I didn't pinch. Is there a feeling or feedback I should be getting from the car to indicate pinching?
ie. When exiting T9 of Mission, I know why I should wide and how to go wide, but that's more of a conscious effort than getting input from the car.
I compared my videos: Ridge vs Mission. I see what you guys mean by it seems like I was "floating" in the middle of the track at Ridge and that I'm pinching. So one of the things I focused on at Mission was to make sure I didn't pinch or use more of the track.
It was a conscious/active decision every time to make sure I didn't pinch. Is there a feeling or feedback I should be getting from the car to indicate pinching?
ie. When exiting T9 of Mission, I know why I should wide and how to go wide, but that's more of a conscious effort than getting input from the car.
So I've been trying to think of a way to explain what I've learned in my first season on the track. I think your question can command a very complicated answer due to all the factors in performance driving, but I also think this is a good high-level summary:
The less steering angle you use, the faster you will be.
Keeping that in mind, if you can further reduce your steering angle on the corner exit phase without exceeding the track limits, then you are not yet using all of the available track.
Although it's not always so black and white, it's a good starting point, and worked well for me. I find myself learning the most when reviewing footage. Be sure to get your hands, and if you can, your feet.
Keep in mind the closer to the track limits you are driving, the higher chance for your inconsistency to bring you over the track limits and cause a potential off-track event
Is there a feeling or feedback I should be getting from the car to indicate pinching?
ie. When exiting T9 of Mission, I know why I should wide and how to go wide, but that's more of a conscious effort than getting input from the car.
In extreme cases, it'll feel like you're fighting the car to keep it stable assuming the setup is done correctly. It'll come with seat time.
If you're going to the September 1st track day at Ridge or any Mission days, let me know and I'll see if I can provide some feedback. I can understand/respond better with hands on involvement better than words haha
Rallycross in Squamish with the Vancouver subaru club, helped run by Velocity. All n’ all went really smooth.
First event of its kind for the organizers, I had a few concerns. Mostly with safety. There needed to be way more corner workers, and they didn’t even wear safety vests =_=. Also tech was kind of a joke. Just looked at my car and went “okay!” Though I could say the same about VCMC this year. That being said it ran as a continuous loop, no need to work corners ourselves so it was pretty much open pit, keep going over and over and over. Tonnes of seat time
One rollover but an actual rally car. Definitely proves the risk associated
"I paid for the track, I will use all of the track"
Oh, the "aim for the GAIN sign" corner? Yeah, I do the same, try to scrape by that pole, haha. Not a lot of people in Intermediate or Novice groups of the events I went to know to do this, it seems.
I know track season is open now. Who’s been enjoying mission lately?
I'm Alberta based (Edmonton) but got into tracking again this year after a long hiatus. Picked up a cheap FRS (2013 unfortunately - knock on wood) and tried to get as much events in as possible this summer. Ended up at 17 lapping days. We somehow have one of the best track scenes in Canada currently with 3 tracks around Edmonton area and Rocky Mountain Motorsport about to open this spring (to make 4 for Alberta) so it made sense to get into it again. First year with RWD. The FRS feels sooooo slow yet somehow puts down quite fast laptimes. Love this car and if it had a better motor it would be a beast.
Been looking for an FRS for track duty but the prices have skyrocketed, or rather, more than I'm willing to pay. Curious to see if you have any enhancements on the FRS or plans for any. I've always been curious about the Ohlins Road & Track kit.
I'm GTA based so there are a number of tracks available but often far and too many "clubs" that are either really bad/poorly organized or hard to get in to in order to participate. That and the tracks are often far, several hours away so a factor of time/cost plays a factor in the number of fun days.
Been looking for an FRS for track duty but the prices have skyrocketed, or rather, more than I'm willing to pay. Curious to see if you have any enhancements on the FRS or plans for any. I've always been curious about the Ohlins Road & Track kit.
I'm GTA based so there are a number of tracks available but often far and too many "clubs" that are either really bad/poorly organized or hard to get in to in order to participate. That and the tracks are often far, several hours away so a factor of time/cost plays a factor in the number of fun days.
I should have probably done some research instead of just jumping into this chassis. People don't like the 2013's cause there is a valve retainer/spring recall, the factory tune has problems and its difficult to fully disengage traction control. The 2017+ is what I would be looking at if I did this again but they're expensive. Overall this has been pretty reliable. Must do an oil cooler before tracking as this motor runs crazy hot. Wrap the up-pipe with heat wrap as it tends to melt coilpacks. Mine has 120K km but hasn't had any major issues yet. I'm still on factory tune but most guys will tell you a reflash or dyno tune is a must on these as it will give you like 20whp and get rid of the annoying torque dip. I will do this in the spring.
I don;t have experience with Ohlins but from what I hear they're great. I'm running an Australian coilover from MCA. Other mods were just brake kit with aggressive pads, lines, fluid, a bucket seat, some chassis bars and bushings. Stock wheel wells can fit big tires (running 245 wide for street tire and 265 wide slicks for timed events). No rolling needed just a track alignment.
For the money the car is awesome as long as you can deal with Subaru motors. Don't expect Honda reliability and don't mess with it too much and it's a great track car.
I track my 986 Boxster S, so it's already 100x worse than any Subaru engine haha
I can't imagine running it 17 times a year for track duty however.
Assuming I land one a cheap FRS (wishful thinking) I'd be ok with a 2013 and be perfectly okay if the engine exploded; it's already cheaper than a $10K+ rebuild on a Porsche motor. Do you have a link to the coilovers you are using?
For what its worth, I had a set of Ohlins suspension on my motorcycle and it was a night and day difference in handling quality. I've been in a few ride-alongs with guys from the PCA club running Ohlins R&T coilvovers and they are pretty sweet but they are in no way cheap but you get what you pay for I suppose. Neat FRS and build you have; colour me green in envy.
I track my 986 Boxster S, so it's already 100x worse than any Subaru engine haha
I can't imagine running it 17 times a year for track duty however.
Assuming I land one a cheap FRS (wishful thinking) I'd be ok with a 2013 and be perfectly okay if the engine exploded; it's already cheaper than a $10K+ rebuild on a Porsche motor. Do you have a link to the coilovers you are using?
For what its worth, I had a set of Ohlins suspension on my motorcycle and it was a night and day difference in handling quality. I've been in a few ride-alongs with guys from the PCA club running Ohlins R&T coilvovers and they are pretty sweet but they are in no way cheap but you get what you pay for I suppose. Neat FRS and build you have; colour me green in envy.
I bought mine for just under 10k but it was a bit hacked. Currently into this whole setup at about $25k but that is with:
-spare motor
-spare transmission
-2 sets of track wheels+tires
-2 sets of brake pads
-recent clutch/flywheel change
-bunch of random crap that i wanted on it
They're comparable to Ohlins price wise but I bought them 2nd hand. Will probably get them serviced soon and maybe re-valved. They're too harsh for street driving, handle high speed imperfections really good but struggle on slow speed bumps. I think Ohlins would work better or even one of the cheaper jap coilovers like HKS or RSR.
in AB what's the average track day admission and seat time given that there's quite a few options?
Depends on the track/day but runs from 150-300. I'd say from 1-3hr of actual driving on a typical track day.
The new Rocky Mountain Motorsport park (just outside of Calgary) that is set to open in the spring will likely be way more though. They are doing a membership-style track (like Area 27). Look like an amazing track though
That's pretty good! Typical track day at a good track and a good club in Ontario is around $500 - $900 (lots of varying factors.) One can go to a track day that's completely run amock without any rules for a few hundred bucks, but often the damage to your car from morons end up costing in the thousands.
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