You should buy a $1000 piece of shit to learn how to drive. I bet I could beat you from Big White to Kelowna in my 100 horsepower, blown-headgasket 1993 minivan because it is easier to put a slow car to 10/10 than a fast car to 8/10

(not meant to be insulting, seriously, get a slow as fuck car and learn to drive with 0 ABS and pedal feel only...)

holy shit i didn't know you bumped this thread.. classic cope

The threads disappear on this sub-forum for me.

Alright, folks. Who is ready for 2025 track season? :badpokerface:

Let me be the first to eat my own words from last year's post. I won't be running with BMW CCA this year due to my return to school. The program isn't easy and I moved into a new role, so time and money has been tighter. I'm signed up for the full season with PCA UCR but may have to bail like a bitch if the going gets tough with school. :okay:

No changes to the car this year other than oil change. Hope the tires are still happy. Tech inspection and spring maintenance scheduled early April. Looking forward to a great season this year! :)

Plans for my 2025 track season is getting derailed bcos of the Trump-induced automotive mayhem in more ways than one.

At one point, I was debating whether I should/could attend some lapping events down in the States, but given tension between Canada and the US, as well as a variety of stricter border crossing enforcement measures, things are now looking very unattractive to me for any of these cross-border motorsports trip.

And then there is the problem of tires. My previous set is almost down to the wear bars, and somehow, I didn't have the foresight back in Oct/Nov to order a new set of tires. So now with all the tariffs and stuff, I wonder how much more I'd be paying for new tires. Or I could theoretically run another set I have that is 4 years old, but they were utter crap even back when they were new.

It's gonna be an "interesting" 2025 season...

Damn, Motul RBF 600 has jump to $30 a bottle now. I remember paying $20 last year? (I know, $10, gonna break the bank.) :D

I may consider switching fluids next season to ATE 200 or stick to a regular off-the-shelf DOT 4 since I don't really use my brakes. Thank you, momentum car (aka slow) :lol

RBF600 was $30 last year as well...

Get SRF or Torque 700 IMO.

SRF will last 1-2 years withouth flushing, typically.

A 50% increase on something is still pretty steep though.

Damn, too rich for my blood. :D

At this rate, I think I will switch to Walmart Supertech DOT 4. :awwyeah:

Yes but how many times per season are you flushing RBF?

SRF is $100 a bottle (1L) - you need 2x RBF bottles to get 1L. The cost increase for better fluid is minimal. SRF has a higher boiling point wet or dry than RBF600.

I only do a flush at the beginning of the season and after July. I guess what I'll try to do is boil the brake fluid this season. :)

BRB - Going to Walmart.

If you ran SRF you probably wouldn't have to flush for 2 years... so cost is same or less :D

Damn. My air/oil separator boot is torn and leaking oil on the side of the engine. 4 hours labour + $25 for parts. RIP.

Gonna have to go with used brake fluid now. :inout:

Anyone got skid puck recommendations locally?

Or ebay is the only way to go?

I ripped off my front lip last year under hard braking, looking to add some alum skid pucks for the one i just replaced. (Also my parkade isnt C7 friendly.....)

i have a combo of ti pucks and 1/2 inch thick plastic cutting board i chopped up to make skid pucks with on my splitter. as cool as Ti is, i can make probably a 100 pucks for every pair of ti pucks.

Plastic cutting board is a good idea, dollar store here i come.